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About Muss

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  1. Yip, all the same size, brand, within a mm or so of wear etc - replaced all of them this year after one got a puncture that couldn’t be repaired. I have to check the pressures, but none of them look low. I did have to use the space saver for a short amount of time after I got that puncture, but would have been about 20km of driving. The gearbox box was second hand from strong for Subaru about 60k km ago (manual conversion), and had done about 100k when I bought it. Not sure of how it was used before that... I have assumed that once the binding starts, it just continues to get worse (unless replaced), or can the symptoms be caused by the things above, and if changed soon enough, don’t cause permanent damage? Also, just to clarify why I’m asking about sti vs non-sti etc, I was reading that the centre diffs pre-98 were “all the same”, and post 99 were also “all the same”. Cheers
  2. Help! I'm needing some advice on what the best way to tackle a binding centre diff. I've just noticed the issue this weekend, but due to the amount of short distance driving I do, it might have been happening for a little while. Car is a 2001 BE5D manual. I've been doing a bit of reading, and found some great threads/walk throughs (Rosssub's, Gazzy2000, plus others on other forums) but have a couple of questions: First up: is it possible for the same symptoms (shuddering on hard lock after warmed up, but fine otherwise) to be related to the rackends being replaced? Probably just a coincidence, but they were replaced recently. As above, symptoms are only after the card is really warm, and as I normally do short distance, the issue may have been there for a while... Now, if it is the centre diff, there look to be a couple of ways to solve it: Like for like: Is there any difference between using the exact same model, vs one from a newer model (like Rosssub did?). If going second hand, I guess the newer one will hopefully be in better condition, but is there any other benefit? Replace with older: Replace the diff, housing and transfer case from an older model which are less prone to failure. I note that Gazzy used parts from a 97-98 STI g/b, but are they essentially the same parts as non-STI gearboxes? will the transfer case from a non-sti bolt straight on? or are the STI parts different and better? Think that is about it, but sure there will be more questions later. Probably won't be tackling this for a while (Christmas) as the car isn't used much. Depending on what people think is the best approach is, does anyone know anyone selling any of the above parts? Thanks in advance
  3. There are fuel lines that go underneath the intake manifold (atleast in the TT, so assuming this is a facelift 03 BE/BH), and there are some rubber hoses under there that have clamps on them. If all the visible ones are tight, then it could be those. Manifold has to be lifted to get at them though, so are annoying to have to replace
  4. Thanks for the point in the right direction. Grabbed the file, and found the right pages. It'll be useful to have it sitting around for future use as well.
  5. Bit of a bad look, being my first post and all (I'll post an introduction thread later), but I'm hoping someone will be able to help me out - I'm after a pinout diagram for a 2001 revision D B4, the ECU that has 5 plugs. Looking to install an Apexi AVC-R into the car, but their wiring diagrams only go up to the 4 plug ECU's. I know what a few of the wires are due to the sequential turbo controller I installed, but after searching high and low across the internet, I can't find any diagrams to help out. Any help would be appreciated.