Optical
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Posts posted by Optical
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For a 2006 Legacy
Appears to be gassed up but isnt working. IS there a recommended place to take it to get looked at?
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not a bad idea.
Do you need someone to go into Subaru in Auckland? I need to head there at some stage soonish
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Chris at suspension tech rebuilt my Ohlins years ago, knew all about them. A+ would trade again
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Yes you can get it, but only from specific companies. I had insurance on the old prova legacy years ago, but from a company that only insures doctors and lawyers.
The insurance covered anything motorsport racing against the clock rather than other cars. Excess was $5k. I just got it for track days as it didnt cost anything extra to normal road insurance at the time.
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Ive done two.. the block is probably your first concern.
Need to start with at least a semi closed deck or if not factor in the cost of close-decking. Have you got one?
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My knock amp was tuneable two-pole high pass and low filters in series and a gain stage.
Here's some frequency analysis from a recording I made like 6 years ago.. Knock frequencies span the band of about 5 to 7khz which matches the theory. The passband width and 3db frequencies were tuneable though.
I lent mine to RAC about 3 years ago and havent seen it since lol, should ask if he still has it...
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Palmside used to do them too
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recapped
yeah top feeds spray ok
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The phase 2 yellow injectors flow lots when decapped but the spray pattern is terrible. Definitely get some new pintle caps from an injector place to sort the spray pattern out again.
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They have a different cam trigger pattern too. Could probably use the matching crank trigger and set up Link to suit
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Very clever
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FWIW I use the Moroso twin scroll baffled sump.
I have datalogs of oil pressure from over 200 laps on slicks at Hampton Downs with arguably NZs most anti-subaru corner. The sump doesnt work and I record plenty of pressure drops. But it works well enough and I havent stuffed the engine yet. Keeping the oil level up and keeping the oil from being blown out the breathers (or at least draining it back quickly) is just as important.
As is oil temperature too, no one ever talks about that in these threads but I see immense pressure drop from heat on all sorts of oils. Most people I see run bearings at the track have roasted their oil to the point where it no longer works no matter how good your damn sump.
/quote]
Is the data logging your talking about with toyr moroso sump or are you talking about the forementioned pbms
Datalogs are with the Moroso. I actually used the PBMS \'street spec\' sump before that, waste of time imo. Save the $250 and put it toward an oil cooler or decent sump.
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FWIW I use the Moroso twin scroll baffled sump.
I have datalogs of oil pressure from over 200 laps on slicks at Hampton Downs with arguably NZs most anti-subaru corner. The sump doesnt work and I record plenty of pressure drops. But it works well enough and I havent stuffed the engine yet. Keeping the oil level up and keeping the oil from being blown out the breathers (or at least draining it back quickly) is just as important.
As is oil temperature too, no one ever talks about that in these threads but I see immense pressure drop from heat on all sorts of oils. Most people I see run bearings at the track have roasted their oil to the point where it no longer works no matter how good your damn sump.
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you\'re putting a v3/4 engine into a v5/6 loomed car?
mostly will work or will with a plug swap. But idle valves are completely different physically and electrically
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if you put a leone rack in you will have to turn the wheel around one hundred times to go around hairpin.
just tow your car behind another and see for yourself if you dont want to believe anyone
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Removing it is an awful idea.. I have an ultra quick 2.2:1 rack and 330mm steering wheel. Just about impossible to move the wheel with no PS
If you wanted a super slow rack for some bizarre reason then it might be ok. Remove it for a drag car only IMO
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Just a word on the ELF. I have used it on the track for years, but it drops pressure significantly with heat.
It likes to run in the 80-90C range, pressure drop is significant beyond that
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Hamptons is quite tough on tires and brakes so I\'d spend the first couple of sessions learning lines and braking points. Ive seen many first timers visit the wall due to over enthusiasm.
This will also go some way to keeping your oil temps down, as hot oil sloshes easily and endangers your bearings
Rules for play days are basically dont overtake under brakes or in corners. Maybe find someone who knows the track well and is about the same speed and learn the track from them.
Some footage here of a Hamptons playday from a year ago - including following Tony @5mins who is damn quick around hamptons
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quite possibly yes. Best check the wiring where it\'s visible from the firewall down to the box.
I\'m wondering if there is a bad connection at the box connectors or chaffed wire somewhere causing current to leak, the dccd ecu might see that as higher impedance and think the dccd coil has been unplugged... just a ropy theory
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From a year or so ago. v3 sti road car
Hamptons 1.13.8
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The net result from all these mods is that you are increasing the caster angle in the front suspension geometry.
You can space the rear arm mount down (alk), out (free caster mod), or both to increase the angle. You can also rotate the strut top hats so that they face longitudinally rather than laterally, then slide the strut top toward the back of the car. Spec c front suspension arms also have the ball joint located 25mm further forward than most other cars which also gives a big increase in caster angle and a small increase in wheelbase.
Increasing the caster angle increases dynamic camber and jacking force. Both of these factors improves front end cornering grip and turning response.
In factory form the front geometry of a subaru has low caster (3.5-4 degrees). Very prone to understeer and dull steering. Increasing to around 5.5-6 degrees by modding everything you can is where you want to be for best handling.
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What is correct oil temp
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
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Depends on what type of oil you run, cheaper oils dont like getting hot.
Here's a pressure plot some ELF racing oil, at the start on the left oil temp is about 80C and at 6mins it's at about 100C. You can see a gradual pressure loss as it heats up. So optimum temp for this oil to obtain maximum oil pressure is 80C. (ignore the red dots)