nickch
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Posts posted by nickch
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You want the blade of the sway bar to be on the inside part of the end link.
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Hey guys!
These guys seem to be getting a lot of exposure on the radio etc.
I thought I'd have a nosey and give them a call for a quote.
It was pretty much a hard sell, so make sure you do not commit to anything yet.
My quote ended up being just under $30 cheaper per month. which is a savings of about $320 per year.. (not too much).
They've been in OZ for quite a while now and reviews from across the ditch are largely negative.
Does anyone have any experiences, thoughts, tips, insider advice?
I'm currently with AA, and am curious to see what the differences in policies are.
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that front u bar isn\'t structural, but it does stiffen up the front end. remove in favor of a k brace type thing, or notch the frame, or find a wof inspector who will pass it. i had to get a wof while i was sourcing my alloy arm bits, they had no problem with it. as stated, ymmv.
Yeah, found a WOF place that had raised some questions, but we\'re happy enough the the quality of the kit to issue me a WOF
Had a few recommendations around washers and bolt strength and recommended me to get it certified still.
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Will he pass you if you take the frame off?
How does it handle now Im picking youve taken it for a spin?
have got some work to do, so I haven\'t really taken off the frame yet.
Been reading on NASIOC,and some say it does make a difference..
Can\'t say for sure yet.
I might go to a different place, as the one i went to first reckons its structural, and will probably fail me for taking it off =\
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Pretty much.
I rarely get time during the week off.
Circumstances saw me working from home today, so it was easy to pop out quickly and go get my WoF done before easter!
Not so straightforward now..
=(
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its not the subframe
I know its not the subframe.. even though the work shop manual refers to it as such.
I mentioned it doesn\'t really affect the structure of the car too much. It\'s there to keep some countries with strict crash ratings happy.
The 2 guys I talked to today seem to think its structural.. =\
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Just got back from VTNZ, guy says it should be fine. but the ground clearance is less than 100mm :\'(
Clint, might have to take your advice and take the U-frame off..
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The spacing of the subframe.
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Am thinking of going to another place for a second opinion, but risking another $40 bux. =\
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Hi all,
So I recently installed a Whiteline anti lift kit. Part of the kit comes with spacers to bring the front U-shaped subframe down a bit to clear the new mounts.
The WOF place I went to just failed me on that saying that it is a cert requirement.
Just wanting to confirm/enquire if anyone has had issues before.
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I\'ve always lived with my cold start hesitation.
I normally warm the car up about 45 seconds to a minute before driving off.
If you\'re looking at chasing down the problem, I\'d start with checking your fuel filter or front O2 sensor.
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Gave the engine bay a clean.
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Trackday yesterday.
Did this n lap 1, aquaplaned at the sweeping left hander at taupo, turn 9? went round backwards and into the wall. Doesnt look too bad in pic but the panel alignment is on some pretty good angles and a bend inside the boot.
Went out again and hour or so later, BEB.
Ended up doing 4 laps in total.
Ouch! Didn\'t you disprove that your BEB was on the way out?
Or do you think it both are unrelated?
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Rear Swaybar and Antilift kit in!
Sorry, forgot to take pics of the ALK earlier, so this pic was taken with a potato instead.
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I\'ve never had a car that back fires when u come back onto the gas after a gear change - with venting bovs or no bov what so ever
At least rich is 100000x better than going lean
Again, YMMV..
Sometimes its not too rich to the point where it will backfire, but will still cause carbon build up, which accumulates in the long run.
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Still struggling to see how the engine can run rich when the bov is venting - because like I said soon as u let the gas off the injectors are off- so when bov is venting the injectors are off unless you have turned fuel cut off on the ECU
My wide band doesn\'t go rich before it shows the fuel cut is working ??
If it was going rich when the valves venting - you would have a machine gun of backfires when the valves open
It\'s not so much running rich at the point you lift off the gas.
Take the time it takes to change gear:
1) Release throttle
2) Change Gear
3) Back on throttle.
The rich condition happens as you get back on throttle.
In a recirculated system where the air is put back post MAF, the ECU has already calculated x liters of air in the system. When you dump it to atmosphere, instead of x-litres, there actually is only x-(volume dumped) liters.
So, when you get back on power (on step (3)), ECU thinks there is x litres, starts squirting fuel to burn x litres, hence rich condition, excess fuel goes out exhaust, back fire, stutter.
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The Bushes Tube and the A-Arm Shaft, are both Tapered. 3-4ft Breaker Bars the one. ;D
Are you lowering the Car to Normal Ride Height before tightening the Anti-Lift Bushes? Otherwise they\'re Anti-sag, or can\'t do their job at all.
Yup, had breaker bar, pulled myself on the control arm, and used my leg to push to break them off.
Pretty moot now considering I cant get them installed. I have to put the original ones back one.
I was planning to tighten them a little bit, then go for an alignment and get the guys there to tighten to torque spec.
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Ouch, were they new Bushes? Always a Right and a Left...Still useable, just push it back in.
Yeah.. its the Anti Lift Kit
Managed to push it back it, but the tube didn\'t actually fit on the control arm rod =(
Need to sort out returns and rinse and repeat.
Not looking forward to taking off and putting on the U brace again. =(
Breaking the 19mm and 22mm bolts were interesting too.
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Tried fitting a Whiteline Anti Lift Kit, which ended up horribly.
Driver\'s side tubing would not fit over the control arm rod and ended up being seized.
Bushing came right off the tubing after prying, and after a bit of cursing, managed to get the tubing off, hopefully not damaging the control arm rod in the process.
The kit didn\'t end up getting installed as have confirmed that the tube on the driver\'s side was a wee bit smaller than on the passenger side which lead to the fitment issues.
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Hmmm, I like the current sound my factory valve makes, just wish it was a little louder so that someone next to the car can hear it and not just me inside it
Gonna wait till my next car to do any of this anyway.
How loud is yours full recirc?
Not sure how it sounds from outside as I\'m sole driver. But from inside the cabin it is quite distinctive..
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Could be me growing old, but I have a GFB hybrid, and I much prefer the sound it makes full recirc with the snorkel taken off
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Reflashes/Road tunes in Auckland
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
I think ST-Hitec uses open source ECU flashing software, which doesn't lock the ECU afterwards.