cods4

gotasuby is right. It took me a bit of reading to get my head round it, but a diff with a perfect 50/50 torque split is a totally open diff so the wheel with the least traction will spin faster, but both wheels will get the same amount of torque from the engine. When a diff is locked both wheels (or shafts) spin at the same rate. This means that the torque goes to the wheel with the most traction. An LSD gives a healthy median between the two.

Thanks for the info guys. I don't want to go for a big expensive turbo for this car. At the moment it's set up to do hill climbs etc, at some stage it may end up doing the odd rally and therefore needing a restrictor so a big turbo would be wasted. I think when I'm due for a new turbo I'll go for something a bit bigger. Maybe an 18g or a vf22. I can't get the compressor off now as the intake manifold is back on. Next time it is stripped down I'll take some more photos. What's the difference between the different TD05-16gs and how do you tell which is which?

Yeh sorry, I'm used to seeing MAP values, not MGP. Should read 1.5Bar. [quote name='evowrx said: Is it a genuine td05 with the 90deg snout converted to straight? Pics. Good question, didn't think of that. Can you tell from these pics? img] [/img]

So I had my v4 sti tuned today on E85. When I bought the car it already had the PBMS forged shortblock, Link G4 and a TD05-16G turbo. I think the turbo has a different exhaust housing or some modifications by Steve Murch but not certain. The turbo seems to have run out of puff fairly early. The tuner was able to get the boost up to 1.5Bar at 5000rpm but he had to quickly drop it off to about 1.3Bar at 7000rpm. He said the turbo is a major bottleneck and I would have been much better off with a VF23 or VF22 (which I think would have been stock on this car). Can anyone work out why the previous owner would have changed from a VF22 to a 16G? The car is set up as a hill climb/track car. The only thing I can think of is that he went to a TD05 as it's rebuildable, and therefore better to use with anti-lag. If I was to upgrade the turbo in the future what should I go for? TD05-18G or 20G or VF22? Edit: Changed 2.5Bar MAP to 1.5Bar MGP

Finished installing ID1000 injectors, fuel rails, fpr etc and then got it running on E85. Booked in for a tune on Friday

That's interesting. Is it because of vibrations?

Just bolted mine up today. In place of the AC compressor, unfortunately this will only work if you don't have AC. I still have tmic so no room there.

Wheres this Grainco place?

Thanks for the info hijacka So do I need both the conversion kit and the rails? What is the conversion kit for? Does it include the hoses and bracket to mount the rails to the manifold? I have found this kit http://www.tuspeed.com/epc-top-feed-injector-conversion-kit-p-2177.html which appears to be similar to the Carl Davey kit. Has anyone used it and does it look like it includes everything?

I have been doing a bit of research over the last couple of days about upgrading to ID1000 injectors or similar on my V4 STI so I can run E85. All the write ups Ive found have been about the USDM cars which have TGVs. I haven't had a close look at my car yet but I'm pretty sure that it has a completely different setup to these cars on Naisoc. Can anyone tell me what is required to convert our cars to top feed injectors? If I buy the side feed ID1000 kit (PN 1000.18.01.48.14.4) will I get everything I need, or is there more to it?

Installed a battery isolation switch.

It would be great if you could put a photo or two up. I'm after ideas on how I can modify my one or what other splitters are out there that will fit.

Not yet, I'm on the lookout for a v8 scoop and splitter but they are hard to come by

Finished fitting a v7 TMIC to my v4. I also fitted a watersptayer at the same time. I mainly followed this article for fitting the intercooler http://www.carldavey.co.uk/article.php?id=3 . Results: temps seem to have dropped quite a bit. When I hold it at 100kph under brakes with WOT in 3rd gear (about 5000rpm) for about 10secs the IAT gets to about 47c. And with the water sprayer going it gets to about 40c With the stock intercooler at Pukekohe track I was getting temps of 70c at 180kph. That was with the heat shield off the turbo and heaps of bent fins on the old IC. So not a fair comparison but I'm very pleased with the outcome. Intercooler with V3 BOV outlet welded in Final Install I'm still waiting for a mount to come from partsouq

The seller thought it was Steve Murch, however I don't have any evidence to support that. PBMS said that Steve usually engraves something into the compressor housing when he works on a Turbo, but I can't see anything on there (the turbo is in the factory location).

So I've just bought a caged v4 sti off trade me to get back into some clubsport and I've done some research to confirm what the seller told me is correct (it appears to be). So the car has an engine built by PBMS with the following: Closed Deck Block Cosworth BEB JE Pistons M&H rods PBMS Baffled Sump Walbro 500hp fuel pump Silicone intake hose (under manifold) to foam air filter in guard (not keen on this idea) TD05 turbo with 28/71 comp wheel (interested to learn more about this?) Numbers on Turbo comp housing are TD05H 49778-62?? 14412AA09 Siamese downpipe and 3" exhaust (too loud for me, will get resonator installed) Link G4 plug in ECU Can anyone tell me anymore about all this? I'm keen to dial it in for reliability in the short term so I'm thinking of doing the following Full service (cam belt, rocker cover gaskets, fluids, spark plugs etc Make exhaust quieter and change air intake setup (ideas?) Dyno test and possibly tune to check a/f ratios and find out more about the ECU config.

I think most aftermarket speakers will require you to cut off the weather shield unless you get really cheap ones that will probably be no better, if not worse than the factory ones. Also, if you get really flash ones with huge magnets you might find the window hits the speaker magnet when you wind it down.

Have you considered a 3.0R? My father has a 2004 3.0R sedan and I'm really impressed with it, I'd recommend at least test driving one before you make your decision.

Subarus would do the same thing if the prop shaft broke wouldn't they. That's why it makes sense to me that this rule would apply to awds too. I will talk to my inspector to make sure though.

Well I know I have to fit them because ive done an engine conversion. Maybe you guys just got lucky.

Copied from the Engine and Drive Train Standard sheet on the LVVTA website. Drive-shaft safety loops 2.5(8) A front-engine, rear-wheel drive low volume vehicle that has undergone an engine conversion, or has had its factory-fitted engine significantly modified, such that a significant increase in power or torque has resulted, must be fitted with an effective 360-degree front drive-shaft loop, mounted within 150 mm rearward of each front drive-shaft universal.

Yeh, we changed to motor to an EJ20K which is more than a 20% increase in power so need to install hoops. I assumed you also needed to install them if your engine mods gave it more than a 20% increase but I could be mistaken.

You probably know this already but you need to have drive shaft hoops installed if you have increased power by more than 20%. I'm getting mine certed in Christchurch and I have had a quote for $150 and one for $300 to get them custom made and installed (bear in mind that is with the carpet and seats removed already).

Sweet, will take them out then.

I am in the process of getting the bc5 all road legal (cert booked next week) and want to remove the daytime running lights (spotlights) as they are no use for motorsport and I don't want to have to wire them up. Has anyone had any trouble with failing wofs, certs or compliance for having holes in the bumper where the spotlights should be? I'm guessing it will definitely fail if I leave them in but not operational because I have noticed wof guys checking they work on my gtb before.