hijacka

Washer bottle... There acouple of intake hoses that run along side of the washer bottle and into the inner guard.. check them

Sounds like air leak to me.. check the intake hoses haven't split.. the ones coming off the manifold and fuel reg are prone to splitting.. also you don't ''see a air leak'' you could however hear one if you have the right air, or you could grab a can of engine start and spray hoses etc to find the leak when engine is running as the engine start or 'ether in a can' will increase the idle when its sucked in

Could be wrong but Don't remember every seeing a BKR6E recommended for Ej20T/TT That's good if a BKR6E works for you!! Personally i wouldn't be game enough to even try it

A+++ I run 0.7mm gap for 19psi seems to work ;D I've would rather put secondhand pfr6g's in than bkr6e lol I wouldn't use any plug other than a pfr6g not even a bkr6evx

Yeah they both follow the same path via plastic pipe under manifold and back through intake pipe

Have you checked for fault codes?

Exactly my thoughts to, Just a guess but Sounds like it could be blowing the spark out?RE: missing at high rpm and probably on full boost aswell.. could try setting the plug gap to 0.8mm or 0.7mm..Once you get the right plugs that is

Fuel pump..

OF Course haha, Congrats DRFVDR you are a chocky fish winner!

Cool as!!Do you know where can i order them in from? Thanks for your reply

Bought some V6 STI Heads off tardeme ages ago and having a clean up today i decided to check it over and sure enough there's a shim missing lol, so was wondering it i could order 1 in from some where or perhaps theres a good engineering place i could get it machined?

Would have, wish i seen that before thats a helical front diff be worth the hassle installing it and it would have been a straight swap.

Didn't bother reading all the dribble on this sorry but i run the same turbo and recommend it. Ive run mine for over a year now @20psi daily driving and its still as good condition Seems that turbo comes with a 12month warranty so who cares about its origins at that price At least you can rebuild it if it packs out and the comp wheels arn't fragile like the 22 or 23 .. Anyway i don't even no why people compare the 2,Well i do really.. its because they haven't been exposed to the truth yet.. anything factory Subaru is simply not in the same league as the 20g. Hope that helps.(speaks from experience)

Gave up on RWD boxes, chewing threw to many gbox bearings, diffs etc got sick of changing them out and spinning up the wheels in 3rd gear but up to you really. You can use the older 4bolt rear housing on the 8bolt boxes providing its complete, but it can't be the earlier ones thou! has to be like 96 onwards i think ??? or when the rev gear pop out was addressed/fixed, instead of a flat plate on the end of 5th gear they use a metal thingy that pivots between the selector fork and stops rev gear popout. the housing on such a box will have a cutout inside the centre gearbox housing that the metal thingy locks into to stop the metal thingy from spinning around your gearbox will have this, also i recommend ripping it apart and unbolting the crown wheel on the front diff so you can fit the front axles and mr wof guy won't know its RWD.Hopefully that makes sense.

What seems to be the problem with it ??? You do realise you have to adjust the WG BASE, WG SENS, WG RPM to get the boost right if your using the factory controller.

Straight from the link booklet manual.The last part explains your question. Boost target values Boost target values: An extra row of sixteen zones has been added to the zoning system to hold the target boost value for each 500rpm interval between 500and 8000rpm. This allows the boost "curve"to be tailored to suit the application. This flexibility may be used to hold the boost at lower levels through the rpm mid range to suppress detonation and then allow to rise at higher rpm where detonation is less likely. These target values may be changed by using either the EDIT function at any time or using the Boost =xx mode for making changes while actually operating in that zone(rather like ZONE FUEL or ZONE IGNITION). note that any changes are temporary until STORED. The displayed values are shown in KPA(Absolute)and may be cross refenced using the following table. Note that the values must always be greater than 100 since below 100 represents vacuum. KPA PSI 100 0 120 3 140 6 160 9 180 12 200 15 220 18 240 21 250 23

Seen what i believe is the car in question in my travels today plate number: DJT459. Not 100% sure its the one at riccarton cause i didnt see the passenger side of the car to confirm 100% but one of my boys who wrote the number down when the hit and run happen said hes pretty sure its it. Think im mistaken the plate number above ???

Hi again matt, cheers that was more the answer i was looking for Might aswell sell it then ??? Got loom ecu afm etc for it aswell, how much $$$ do ya rekon?

just to clear this up: BE = sedan, a B4 BH= wagon, a GTB I assume its a Sedan in question seeing its B4, Well the one i seen was 4door and would have to have damage to the LHR quarter panel anyway because the guys front wheel on his bike folded up against the forks and the loud bang noise it made when he hit it would have to of come from the quarter panel or bumper.

Thats not the same one i seen about a week ago in a hit and run at riccarton rd intersection is it? got tinted side and back windows.. cut some poor guy on a cycle off, bike going straight on green light and car turning right on to riccarton road heading towards town and bike slammed in to the left rear quarter panel done a 360% spin in the air clearing the back off the car then landed on the concrete then he took off leaving the guy on the road huddled in a ball. then the guy gets up and the realises the cars taking off and chases after the blitzen with his helmet in hand and blitzen does the bolt. Not saying it is him but how many of red 4door Blizten are around chch? If it is him he will be in a heap of shit now anyway because i caught up to the guttless prick in the work truck was going to ram him but instead got his plate number and dropped it off to the cyclist And that was my good deed for the day.

Hi timmah, yeah im no expert on it either hence the question, i know abit about the older stuff but know fark all about the newer ej208. According to google its slightly high comp 9.1 and the heads flow really well. Going by Google searches it sounds like a pretty good engine/upgrade

Hi people, im wanting your opinion regarding a engine swap, and if i should or not.. At the moment ive got a bf5 prefacelift model, have just rebuilt the engine less than 10,000kms ago, has orginal block 97gtb pistons, gapless rings, king bearings, mls headgasket, GTB heads(shim over)...runs mint but ive also just scored a 2001gtb enigne cheap thats complete with loom etc 120,000kms.. What do you rekon?? Should i swap it out for the EJ208engine? or am i better off sticking with the current one? Opinions please.. ;D Thanks in advance Oh and incase it matters, its running a old possumlink ecu, td05-20g, devorce downpipe to 3'inch madrel bent exhaust yellow top injectors Fmic etc etc

You mean you assume its the selector.. if its been thrashed and smashed into gear it could have smashed the syncro hub aswell as those double coned syncro hubs are weak. best pull it apart and see what the problem is first its not hard to do, and i will have a selector lying around for it.

It will be one of the above things that he or she says has been checked but hasn't been checked properly or faulty idle control vavle

Yeah my neighbour works at kelford haha