Koom
-
Posts
5,498 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by Koom
-
-
I ran a wire from the original fuel relay, split that off as a control wire to two new relays, then ran a new, fused wire straight from the battery for each of the two new relays. Then ran one to the Walbro and one to the Bosch.
-
It just says invalid file when I try to import into my post
It should just be a link that you're pasting into your post.
It'll look like [ img ] www .linktosomewhereontheinternetthathostsimages. com / yourimage.jpg [ / img ] But without all the spaces that I added so that the code didn't disappear into the background.
-
Thanks mate, it's abit rough at the mo as a few earthquakes and being sitting in a mates backyard for a while it got abit scuffed up and the carbon fibre bonnet needs the clear coat completely replaced lol...but give it 6 months and a respray it will be back to good as new.
I was looking at that the other evening and I reckon it might be worth trying to polish out first. The haze looks to be in the top of the clear coat?
-
ok if it starts to splutter and die?
Are you asking "what if it starts to splutter and die" once you've tried swapping those two leads?
Or did you try it and still spluttered and died?
Cause if you've tested with the leads swapped over, then I'd be checking the basics first i.e. does each cylinder have a spark?
-
Easy check would be to swap the two leads over on the passengers side and see how it runs.
-
-
Good old fuel surge?
I used to have an odd issue with the Possumlink at trackdays, where it would go into a "safe mode" after half a lap then come right after another or two. Never figured that one out.
But if your using a factory fuel tank and pickup for the pump (and no surge tank), it's good old fuel surge. Mine would surge even with over half a tank of fuel.
-
As long as it's not cracked (or bent to the point where it's likely to crack soon) it'll be fine as the feed also goes through a ~1mm hole to reduce the flowrate anyway.
-
What sort of gauges have you looked at?
I reckon an a/f ratio gauge would be more useful (as an "oh look, the #*&&$ has hit the fan already) if you want something for the left seat driver to entertain themselves with. Something like the ngk or innovate gauges?
-
Hook up a sensor to the ecu?
You shouldn't be worrying about gauges when your rallying anyway. Safer to leave that to the electrickery wizards in the ecu imo.
-
Depends, on your normal, modified road car I'd say yes.
If doing trackdays, some tracks tend to cause Subaru's to blow out a lot of oil from the heads. In that case, it's better off going back to the sump otherwise in extreme cases you can end up with more oil in the catch can than the motor.
So again, there's no simple answer as it all depends on the intended usage.
-
I don't think I'd run one that fed back into the sump. I had a small Cusco catch can on my high km BH engine, only connected to the head breathers. All that ever came out of it was oily coloured condensation, maybe 20ml per month. Still enough to contaminate sump oil though.
That condensate is part of the reason that the operating temp of the oil is hot enough to boil off the water based contaminants.
-
Do you have examples that you're interested in? As the names are often interchanged and probably talking about the same thing.
Sometimes the oil is drained back to the sump. Sometimes the air is vented to atmosphere and sometimes it'll go back to the intake.
It's going to get harder to pass a wof (or maybe cert) with a venting catch can as far as I'm aware.
There are a lot of subtle differences between the various kits available so it's best to judge a particular setup rather than trying to figure out what is "best" purely off what someone may call their kit.
-
Put back together idled for not even five minutes sliiip! The issue is not cam belt related I now realise. But instead oil related. It explains why it took so long for it to slip initially. It's the camshaft not getting oil methinks. Because I swapped out the avcs solenoids which i now realise lubricate the camshaft from the outside as opposed to the earlier ones which lubricate from the inside. This is a big realisation for me that my car in fact hates me, I'm gunna see if I can do this with the engine in place, no reason why not. Then I just need to re-route oil to them. As the drivers side feeds off the turbo oil feed & jumps up to a weird little spinner that my oil feed doesnt connect to.
That's balls. If it was my engine, I'd be pulling it out and removing the cams to check how their bearing surfaces look. Cause if they're binding up enough to slip the cambelt, they may be looking a bit worse for wear. /understatement
-
Did you turn it over by hand (i.e. with a powerbar and at least one full revolution) before starting it up? That should be enough for the tensioner to open up.
-
I have faint memories of having a similar issue where one type of diff held the axle in place by the clip just passing right through the spline and locking against the inner face. So the clip had to be right near the end of the axle and the make spline obviously longer than the female spline.
Then there were others that had the clip further down the axle which lock into a groove within the female spline.
But it's been years since I've been near a rear diff so I may be wrong. Hopefully someone else has mixed and matched bits more recently.
-
-
http://www.ti.com/tool/filterpro
Looks like I need to update my software as it appears that they've made some useful improvements.
My advice would be to not try to filter it too much, as your ears are still going be a better filter. And using that software it's far too easy for the required design to blow out and become massive to try match unreasonable targets. But it is very easy to use.
-
Just build something cheap and basic as a starting point then add to it if you feel the need to improve it.
Yeah from memory Optical used some form of Chebyshev or Butterworth filter? Although that's where I like the Texas instruments free software as you can change from one topography to the next by just selecting a different box and it does all the maths for you.
If you get really keen, look up the Texas instruments chip TPIC8101. I'm pretty sure that's the basis of every digital knock device. But it only outputs a pure digital on/off signal or a 0-5v analogue signal to feed a gauge. For audio, you still need to separate the input signal and process it separately.
-
I made a really cheap setup with just a jaycar amplifier kit wired to the stock knock sensor which was adequate but not great. Was basically a copy of the early, analogue knockblock.
It works alright but I had also thought about adding better filtering to it. I'm looking into some bandpass filter designs based around op-amps. Texas instruments have some handy software for developing your filter circuits too.
-
Gave her a good clean, and finally managed to pick myself up some window monsoons for my BE. I got the clips with it, just wondering what I should use as an adhesive to fix them to the window frame. Cheers.
Could use some form of 3M double sided VHB tape to secure those? Not sure where to get it though as I just get it from the factory floor at work.
-
http://www.ashleystowtaxi.co.nz/index.php
I've been told to use these guys in the past.
Then there's always Parks towing who seem to have taken over all the other big towing outfits town.
-
-
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 72 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
Dumb Question Thread!
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Width of the tyre. Might be close to rubbing on either the inside of the guards or the strut (or both).