slystiguy
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Posts posted by slystiguy
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the only issue I see is the lag with twin scroll. Hell even my td05 comes on better than that. I was hitting 15psi at 3500 on factory setup just for reference.
Power is about right, although I've seen people on this forum push 240kw with that same v8 sti setup. Maybe there is something else at play causing the "knock" ? e.g fuel/spark/electrical component failure imminent
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SAS (Jason n Richard - https://www.facebook.com/SASworkshop/?fref=ts)
or have also heard many good things about Fraser @ m45 auto
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unsure of the part number but if you post the subaru plate number someone can advise
partsouq.com
the cheapest place to get seals, and shipping is like 5 working days. I ordered monday, they shipped tuesday and arrived friday!
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Oh so no possibility of plugging the hoses and running a strsight alloy pipe to the afm
You can, but need to figure out what you're going to do with the 2x head breathers and 1x crank case breather (e.g plumb them to catch can or safe vent place)
The other thing is the idle control valve aka IACV. You need this to run cold idle. People sometimes remove them if the car doesn't see daily driving but it requires you to manually idle the car until warm.
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Thanks for input guys
Engine was replaced a while ago with a lowish mileage one which seems healthy. I also put the ej20k ignition system into it so spark is healthy at least. Never a single misfire or similar (was terrible on the old ej20g coils)..
Intake pipe has already been plugged up and crank case breather system doesnt run into the intake any more. IAC hose is new and leak free.
I did have a fault code 43 - pressure exchange solenoid and map sensor arrangement. Map sensor wasnt plumbed to pxs right so have sorted that and cleared the code. Still behaves the same...
Could be an air leak, Idle doesnt hunt and I cant see anything obvious.. I will check the pipe under the IC - IC is a bit wobbly so maybe it has flexed and cracked. Then onto the AFM, should be an easy swap with someone to check. Im hoping it's simple something like that!
Seems odd that it pegs at 4000rpm though, i'd have thought the ecu would be causing that, but without a fault code it's hard to know.
shouldn't be spark related then
As loner said, could be fuel pump.
I'm still thinking afm (subaruspeed.co.nz does them good price)
shouldn't be an intake leak if the idle isn't hunting
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The good old ej20g aye. Bearing in mind it's probably done over 200kms and is 25 years old.
Have you checked for codes?
Coils are usually a fault with these but in my experience give different symptoms(backfires,boost cut and missing). Pull them out check for cracks or perished rubber. If they're cracked they need to be replaced. You can cover them with insulation tape as a temp fix. Also check spark plugs out while you're there.
AFM would be my guess, they are difficult to identify as faulty unless you have a known good one. Possibly try a local subaru wreckers see if they will let you test one, or another member who can help out?
Vacuum leaks- Does car hunt for idle? If the cars anything like my legacy the hoses will be stuffed. Do yourself a favour and go grab some 8mm hose clips and 3m of 5mm vacuum line. Replace all the hoses and clamp them on. Gut your breathing system and plug the intake holes with bolts. Replace the hose going to IACV. Check the intake hose to the turbo isn't completely wrecked, check the intercooler hose (replace with sti silicone one if it's plastic) as when these leak they make car whoosh as the air leaks under boost
Run some upper engine cleaner
Spray a bit of degreaser into the boost control solenoid hoses
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no intake leaks post AFM is key to good running car, that includes vacuum lines
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have to be certed and have to be correct size for your hub/ hub centric
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Doing something similar on my coupe haha. Flares+ 245 should fit with ease, you'll have to cut into the fender a little depending on how you want it to fit
Heaps of info over at Nasioc, The sites down so I can't link right now but there's a big topic in there somewhere with diy fender install write up and discussion
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1427863&page=9
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So would running this higher boost cause me problems down the track. It runs great like this, power is awesome.
unless you've got a wideband and knock light installed I wouldn't risk it (esp top end). You'll probably find your tune is leaning out. Not safe unless you know what afr's are doing. Would be a shame to pop a nice engine for the sakes of a few psi of boost/spending $800 on a tune. Be smart get it checked out before it's too late. Or get a boost tap and restrict it back to factory boost until you can get tuned.
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No, rattle guns are not ok for wheel nuts. Any half-way decent one will over-torque them.
If everything is setup properly all the studs do is press the rim against the hub face (well, the rotor), all the weight/force should be carried by the hub-centric ring. So the clamping force of 5 decently large nuts is really overkill.
100Nm is fine, most rattle guns are more like 4-5 times that if you give it the beans. This puts the studs under stretch - which massively increases their clamping force (not that important really) but means that they have no further room to stretch when they need to, which makes breaking them much more likely.
Most good rattle guns have adjustment dial on them so you can rattle them on without over tightening
then go over with the torque wrench to confirm they're tight. Rattle guns are awesome and probably one of the most handy tools around. Makes jobs take half the time with the gun. I grabbed a 18v milwaukee impact and it's been awesome. Air guns are probably cheaper/more user friendly but require air lines ect I use a repco supplied powerbuilt jack, apart from being to big to go under my car it's been good and haven't had any issues yet. I highly recommend you grab a low profile jack, they are so much better.
As for torque wrench, depends on application. You really need 2-3 different sizes tbh. Subarus aren't know for having space around nuts/bolts so you won't be able to fit them in half the time or will need special size lol. If it's just for wheel nuts then something that goes upto 200nm with a long handle would be best. For engine work probably something compact. If you buy good quality and treat it well you should get 10 years out of them easy.
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SAS / Richard
https://www.facebook.com/SASworkshop/?fref=ts
Heaps have used him on here without issue
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The axle stands are a dime a dozen so no worries there
Make sure you get a Jack that's a low profile type, the kits they sell usually aren't the low profile type. It's a **** load easier if you buy a good jack
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Sounds tricky haha, can't help as I'm from chch. Just thought you wanted a standard alignment
Probably on here somewhere Jono
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subarus are easy to align. Should be able to take it anywhere tbh
Tell them you want a degree of camber in the front and the toe just set even.
Profit
see here - http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_Rex_on_rails_1.pdf
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would a faulty/failing o2 sensor give you noticeable lag compared to a new one?
can v1-2 wrx run o2 in the downpipe without issue? Or is it likely to lean out or something? (normally in headers)
Recently swapped from ej207 headers to ej20g headers, lag has come up like it's got an exhaust leak or something. It's very weird. Only thing I can think of is I used an old o2 sensor as the thread was damaged and I didn't wanna thread my newish sensor in there. Or would ej20g headers really cause a difference in response like that?
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buy a first gen legacy/wrx. They're cheap as chips, easy to mod for power, easy to play with/troubleshoot, provide a reasonable amount of resale value if kept in tidy condition and above all they're fantastically fun to drive even in stock form. You won't regret it if you want to learn these are the ones to go for.
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oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, wideband
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there is a guy importing wrx 22b kits from America $3000 +shipping (Auckland based)
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800 for a custom down pipe is pretty up there... Is de-catting the exhaust not an option? The turbo probably won't benefit greatly from 3inch over what's there currently.
Unsure with the later model stuff(they gheyyyyy for modding) but with the earlier models you can get a manual crossmember and swap it over? Chances are they're probably the same crossmember on XXX models of cars and could be sourced cheap enough
All of this is speculation as I don't care for anything past 2000 haha
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lol yea right... Said every subaru owner ever
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why not drive both and go from there?
The 2.5's don't have the best reputation for longevity but more displacement = more potential for power plus you get low down power
the 2.0 come with basically the best of the best ej20 engine, forged internals,twin scroll,avcs. Easily modable later on upto 250kw without need to change internals
then go over with the torque wrench to confirm they're tight. Rattle guns are awesome and probably one of the most handy tools around. Makes jobs take half the time with the gun. I grabbed a 18v milwaukee impact and it's been awesome. Air guns are probably cheaper/more user friendly but require air lines ect -
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Hydraulic Jack and axle stands advice required
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Impact wrenches are great aye! You'll wonder how you did everything in the past without one haha.