slystiguy

Honda makes a throttle body converter thing, basically connect up your cable throttle to this honda part which is like an isolated box which outputs throttle input to ecu, then the ecu controls the DBW throttle (e.g when putting a ez30 engine into a cable throttle vehicle). It saves you converting the car but does require spare ecu inputs etc . Also seen people weld in the DBW pedal assembly into the car but takes a bit of time getting it setup correctly.

Rumor has it Subaru NZ buy prices are worse than partsouq. Makes you wonder how/why it's like that and how many middle men are clicking the ticket along the way to see a 200-400% difference in pricing. They do some competitive pricing on cam belts though!

Could be a number of things. Is the car jerking and back firing at all? Is it a hesitation or a miss? Does the idle run rough sometimes, or dip up and down? What does the boost gauge say? Is it still building boost up top? The not wanting to start when hot thing, it's common for that to be the ecu temp sensor which is on the under manifold cross over pipe. Cheap to replace, kinda a pain to access on some models. If that sensor was faulty it could be reading a false high temp and trying to save the engine? I don't really know how well these old ecu's worked so may not be that intuitive. IME on that model it's usually coil related, cracks in them etc. Check coils for any cracks under the rubber boots too. As a quick fix you can fill the cracks but the v7 coils is a good mod. And check the wiring isn't questionable too! Intake - these models are prone to cracked and damaged vacuum hoses, some may not be sealing properly anymore. A leaking intake pipe, or gasket might be losing boost pressure as it builds higher. You can pressure test the system after the airflow meter. Also BOV leaks are common. Coils - This model crack coils often, check wiring to them as well. AFM - These are prone to failure on setups that run pod filters, in my experience they generally make the car run rough rather than miss so wouldn't go grabbing one just yet Detonation - Is the car running proper fuel? E.g 98 or 100 octane fuel. Is the intercooler doing it's job properly? Are the fins bent to s*** and stopping cooling or is the bonnet vent for it still on the vehicle and pushing air on the cooler as it should. Fuel related - A tired old fuel pump not keeping up later in the rev range as pressure drops, or an injector not flowing correctly, or even a pressure regulator not working or not recieving vacuum. Also the wiring for these pumps is known to fail and give issues, a common mod is a rewire of the pump and use the ecu to turn on a relay. Good luck 😁

That coupe is a gc4 so yes it is a Retna car. Sadly it's been completely wrecked by who ever did that to it. Sad day for Retna fans and s201 fans alike. Why would you bother converting a coupe to that spec when it effectively makes it completely worthless. As ugly as the s201 is, I'd still respect someone who took a crashed one and swapped it to another 4 door as a replica or just to keep it from going off the road. The doors /body has had the lines removed too so cannot really be made into a type R without considerable body work. It's a pretty big derp from who ever owns it/built it.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/subaru/listing/2812433626?tm=email&et=45&mt=B9322494-2FDD-4FA1-8CD2-7777824C2ED7&bof=dDlnfzvz

If it's a car you're going to keep/enjoy/modify then probably worth selling and getting an sti just for the 6 speed box reliability factor. A stock wrx will still make good gains and drivability when tuned. The good things about those particular cars is you can swap the sti parts and make decent power on them. For example sti injectors, sti turbo, uprated fuel pump, turbo back exhaust system, sti intercooler you should hit that 300hp mark or close to it! There are a couple different models of wrx, some come with bigport heads and some with small port heads. That being said @Timmah has a v8 wrx and he's making some decent power around 300whp. Maybe he can chime in and let you know. Sti will also hold it's resale value much better

as long as the ratio is the same you will be fine

Just get them made at like any brake shop. Or message Braketech and he can make some up for you/sell you the correct kit https://www.facebook.com/Braketech/

As a temp fix, run a piece of silicone hose from the turbo nipple to the wastegate. This will stop the over boost. Subaru's don't like over boosting so I wouldn't be driving it hard if it's boosting too high. I think we will need a photo of your setup to provide more information. A 3 port solenoid is probably more capable than a factory boost setup, but it requires aftermarket support or retunes. It's not necessarily a bad thing to have. .. Here's some info on factory plumbing for you

Rather than replace the injector get it flow tested with the other 3 that will tell you if it's working properly or not. Is the wiring to the coil getting a solid 12v with ign on? Wiggle the plug/wiring on it see if the voltage changes might be as simple as a dicky connection. The coil should have 12v and each time it's fired it is grounded by the ecu. If it doesn't have 12v then you most likely have bad wiring or something. Move coil to different cylinder and see if the problem remains on the cyl 2 or moves with the coil. If it remains it's probably wiring or ecu related, or worse case something wrong with compression etc. And if it moves with cylinder then replace that coil and see if you just got a dud coil.

this topic is over 2 years old lol

Yea all bolts up. You can't swap the rocker covers but I think you can run v1-2 coils and they fit? Or with wiring mods it's easy to run later model coils or wasted spark setup. I've done it if you need more info. What spec is your current setup? Exhaust, intercooler, boost control, ecu, fuel pump ?

How many wires are on it? On some gauges they have 2 power wires, 1 runs to power and another runs to a switched headlight source (so they dim when you turn headlights on). I'm assuming you want it to not have power unless the headlights on turned on? You have a few options for power sources ACC power - Same as stereo power, so turns on with the first click on the ignition key turn ON power - This will turn on the same as power windows work, only running when the key is turned all the way, or the car is running Switched via headlight - This will turn on only when the headlights are turned on, the same as the backlights on dashboard switches are illuminated when the headlights are turned on You will need to use a volt meter to find the correct source to suit your needs, you take take headlight switched source from the likes of the back of switches on the dash, ACC and ON can be sourced from the stereo wiring.

Won't your IACV hit the bov?

My bet is a rod bearing. Hard to say from that video... Doesn't sound good...

Use a hose clip and get it on using a 1/4 ratchet and extensions, go in under the brake master cylinder near the chassis rail. It's a right PITA and not something that I enjoy having to do. I've never found the pliers method to be all that easy plus the clips are almost always old and crappy/don't seal that well. New rubber line is advisable if yours perished or brittle as they can leak .

You can prime engine by unplugging crank/cam sensors and turning the engine over until the oil light turns off. That's how the older models work anyway, dunno that much about newer stuff. Replacing a core should be pretty straight forward. Make sure oil lines aren't blocked, put new copper banjo washes on to while you're there.

waste of time and money. Just get a second hand engine in it, sell it when you want a turbo and buy a turbo. That is the only correct answer. And refurbish... what exactly are you asking here? I feel like (no offense) but if you're wording things like that you are probably out of your depth. Start with picking a good quality engineering shop, get them to check the condition of engine parts and advise on what parts are due for replacing and go from there as anything due for replacement will have to be measured before purchasing... Once you know what you need you can call some shops and get prices on bearings/pistons/rings/rods/crank ect ect. From there you are going to need to check the valve clearances and replace as required. At the end of the day it's not a simple job, it's going to need a bunch of specialist tools, a machine shop and a whole bunch of money which in the long run WON'T BE GOOD FOR ANY TURBO APPLICATION. Turbo parts are very different to non turbo in terms of strength and also in the way the engine is designed. Then you have a whole mess of ecu and wiring issues that are simply not worth the time. You could just buy a turbo car and not waste your time or money and have a much better result. If you want to just service the engine by replacing some gaskets, partsouq is the website you are looking for. Genuine parts for less than dealer prices to your door.

partsouq

I removed mine on my old bc5. Plugged it with a fitting I had laying around. You could cap it ect too. Won't harm anything, but it's there for removing the crank case gases I believe. So you would need to look into a catch can system. pro tip a catch can system is more than just a catch can, proper systems have oil separators in them so when you're holding high rpm for long periods the oil can go back into engine rather than overfilling your catch can. If you do any sort of racing or extended thrashing you will need the full system. If it's just a daily driver you will get away with a simple catch can system but will need to keep an eye on it.

any reason you don't have ethanol? It's like the answer to every problem haha

that sucks to hear! I'm buying selling constantly and have never come across this guy but a quick look at his facebook says he's been in hospital recently lol , maybe that is part of it. Call him out on facebook, it worked in the past for me. Just start off peaceful and say you want to return the faulty turbo he sold you for a refund ect ect. Do it on the NZ subaru pages On another note I have a vf24 for sale if you find yourself needing something let me know

I'd keep the vf30. If you want more power I'd be spending your money on ethanol and just run a lower ethanol blend like e20. Keeps the DET down but won't rape your wallet as hard. Allows you to push the engine harder and retain safe limits. I'm pretty sure SAS have seen these go well past 210wkw, more like 230+ . But that would be on v7 sti engine and I'm not sure if 98 or ethanol for those figures. Maybe @gotasuby can chime in. Personally wouldn't waste my time on a td05 18/20g ect. I've driven one and the lag is quite bad, only really has like 3000rpm of actual drivability (4000-7000). Boon hit the nail on the head with his EFR post. Spend a bit more get a much better product. Not bolt on though I guess.

rear diff bushes maybe Or maybe exhaust hitting somewhere

partsouq - get them there for about $50 shipped to your door for both sides. Last I checked anyways.