slystiguy

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slystiguy last won the day on June 12

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283 ok this is getting a bit out of hand

About slystiguy

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    Old Boy

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  • Drives :
    As a volunteer Sheriff’s Deputy I’ve been doing surveillance for years. One time I suspected an ex-girlfriend of mine of cheating on me, so I tailed her for six nights straight. Turns out… she was. With a couple of guys actually, so… mystery solved.
  • Interests
    Cars
  • Location
    christchurch
  • Occupation
    aspiring freelance bodyguard

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  1. If it's a car you're going to keep/enjoy/modify then probably worth selling and getting an sti just for the 6 speed box reliability factor. A stock wrx will still make good gains and drivability when tuned. The good things about those particular cars is you can swap the sti parts and make decent power on them. For example sti injectors, sti turbo, uprated fuel pump, turbo back exhaust system, sti intercooler you should hit that 300hp mark or close to it! There are a couple different models of wrx, some come with bigport heads and some with small port heads. That being said @Timmah has a v8 wrx and he's making some decent power around 300whp. Maybe he can chime in and let you know. Sti will also hold it's resale value much better
  2. as long as the ratio is the same you will be fine
  3. Just get them made at like any brake shop. Or message Braketech and he can make some up for you/sell you the correct kit https://www.facebook.com/Braketech/
  4. As a temp fix, run a piece of silicone hose from the turbo nipple to the wastegate. This will stop the over boost. Subaru's don't like over boosting so I wouldn't be driving it hard if it's boosting too high. I think we will need a photo of your setup to provide more information. A 3 port solenoid is probably more capable than a factory boost setup, but it requires aftermarket support or retunes. It's not necessarily a bad thing to have. .. Here's some info on factory plumbing for you
  5. Rather than replace the injector get it flow tested with the other 3 that will tell you if it's working properly or not. Is the wiring to the coil getting a solid 12v with ign on? Wiggle the plug/wiring on it see if the voltage changes might be as simple as a dicky connection. The coil should have 12v and each time it's fired it is grounded by the ecu. If it doesn't have 12v then you most likely have bad wiring or something. Move coil to different cylinder and see if the problem remains on the cyl 2 or moves with the coil. If it remains it's probably wiring or ecu related, or worse case something wrong with compression etc. And if it moves with cylinder then replace that coil and see if you just got a dud coil.
  6. Yea all bolts up. You can't swap the rocker covers but I think you can run v1-2 coils and they fit? Or with wiring mods it's easy to run later model coils or wasted spark setup. I've done it if you need more info. What spec is your current setup? Exhaust, intercooler, boost control, ecu, fuel pump ?
  7. How many wires are on it? On some gauges they have 2 power wires, 1 runs to power and another runs to a switched headlight source (so they dim when you turn headlights on). I'm assuming you want it to not have power unless the headlights on turned on? You have a few options for power sources ACC power - Same as stereo power, so turns on with the first click on the ignition key turn ON power - This will turn on the same as power windows work, only running when the key is turned all the way, or the car is running Switched via headlight - This will turn on only when the headlights are turned on, the same as the backlights on dashboard switches are illuminated when the headlights are turned on You will need to use a volt meter to find the correct source to suit your needs, you take take headlight switched source from the likes of the back of switches on the dash, ACC and ON can be sourced from the stereo wiring.
  8. My bet is a rod bearing. Hard to say from that video... Doesn't sound good...
  9. Use a hose clip and get it on using a 1/4 ratchet and extensions, go in under the brake master cylinder near the chassis rail. It's a right PITA and not something that I enjoy having to do. I've never found the pliers method to be all that easy plus the clips are almost always old and crappy/don't seal that well. New rubber line is advisable if yours perished or brittle as they can leak .
  10. You can prime engine by unplugging crank/cam sensors and turning the engine over until the oil light turns off. That's how the older models work anyway, dunno that much about newer stuff. Replacing a core should be pretty straight forward. Make sure oil lines aren't blocked, put new copper banjo washes on to while you're there.
  11. waste of time and money. Just get a second hand engine in it, sell it when you want a turbo and buy a turbo. That is the only correct answer. And refurbish... what exactly are you asking here? I feel like (no offense) but if you're wording things like that you are probably out of your depth. Start with picking a good quality engineering shop, get them to check the condition of engine parts and advise on what parts are due for replacing and go from there as anything due for replacement will have to be measured before purchasing... Once you know what you need you can call some shops and get prices on bearings/pistons/rings/rods/crank ect ect. From there you are going to need to check the valve clearances and replace as required. At the end of the day it's not a simple job, it's going to need a bunch of specialist tools, a machine shop and a whole bunch of money which in the long run WON'T BE GOOD FOR ANY TURBO APPLICATION. Turbo parts are very different to non turbo in terms of strength and also in the way the engine is designed. Then you have a whole mess of ecu and wiring issues that are simply not worth the time. You could just buy a turbo car and not waste your time or money and have a much better result. If you want to just service the engine by replacing some gaskets, partsouq is the website you are looking for. Genuine parts for less than dealer prices to your door.
  12. I removed mine on my old bc5. Plugged it with a fitting I had laying around. You could cap it ect too. Won't harm anything, but it's there for removing the crank case gases I believe. So you would need to look into a catch can system. pro tip a catch can system is more than just a catch can, proper systems have oil separators in them so when you're holding high rpm for long periods the oil can go back into engine rather than overfilling your catch can. If you do any sort of racing or extended thrashing you will need the full system. If it's just a daily driver you will get away with a simple catch can system but will need to keep an eye on it.
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