slystiguy
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Posts posted by slystiguy
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I think the number plate is the real crime on that one hahaha
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bahahhahaha, looks good as man, so clean
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mazda/auction-1299732387.htm
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Could try bypassing your fuel filter to check that's not the issue, but yea anything is possible. Are you sure it's pump dieing? Do you have anyway of checking fuel pressure?
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1996 should be 4 plug ecu unless stuff's been changed or it's regd wrong, and all the same sensors/injectors. Same engine with beefier cams basically. Ecu should be able to run it but it's not ideal/could cause issues . Sti ecu is a good upgrade and not usually to pricey.
What code is on your ecu?
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What area are you in? There are a few mechanic/shops on here that could easily do a fuel pump and will also see you right in terms of pricing and quality of work. Assuming the pump is the culprit it's only 1-2 hours of labour to do the pump so shouldn't cost much. On top of all that they will also be able to diagnose any other faults with the vehicle/give a good idea of it's health.
Also pumps die randomly and usually instantly so don't be too hard on the car seller, they probably had no idea that was an issue nor is it something that is routinely checked on sale. It's also a simple and cheap repair/upgrade for your piece of mind. A walbro pump is only $115?, and you should be able to install yourself with no prior knowledge, assuming you can read and have some basic tools available.Uprated fuel pumps are also one of the first mods recommended on ownership/modification side of things
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It's normal-ish for a bit of hesitation on any cold engine but it shouldn't be terrible/undrivable. Next time it rains check your airfilter to see if it's wet?
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I've done it, not easy, wouldn't recommend.
Speedo is different
Wiring is different
dash mounting points are different (e.g you need to weld brackets n stuff on)
Also need matching door cards/center console bits possibly pillar trims ect although I haven't checked that yet (still need to source door cards and check fitment)
Basically only worth doing if you have a complete ver5/6 donor car that you can grab everything required from
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WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER!
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thought it was for fluid level?
Don't need it but your p/s light come on without it -
holy S*** that purple forester sold for 3500 lol
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you can pickup gps trackers on ebay for like $30. Work well. Although if someone wants your car there is a certain method of stopping that gps unit from sending or recieving signals.
I highly recommend everyone buys a gps and installs a kill switch.
There's a S*** tonne of cars going missing in chch atm. Literally 1 or 2 a week. Coupe's,v7's, shitbox wrx's (lol why bother stealing one of those). Although I have a sneaking suspicion that won't be continuing for much longer. Although I can't say for sure. All Ill; say is the ice is getting thin haha
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you can see from photos that the back part of the cover (which I think is unique to each phase of engine/model) is still black so it's only really the front that's actually clear. Still really cool though!
Hmmmmmmmm I wonder if anyone has made a 3d printable cover ... you could use clear filament with it
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Boggles my mind how so many people don't run wideband o2 sensors but are happy to play with boost an chips O_O
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Lol. I think there's a lot of misinformation in this topic. Low boost + no bov = fine. High boost + no bov = comp wheel damage . I'm not saying either is better or worse and that S*** can't happen or fail or last for ages either way. There are always exceptions to every rule and there are simply too many variables at play to say running no BOV was the cause of XX failure.
The term stall isn't really accurate, it makes people think the turbo actually physically stops spinning, this is not the case. The turbo doesn't stop spinning or spin backwards or anything like that, it's just the air that stalls. It always stays spinning. GFB did a good video on mcm2 which explains it simpler if you want to learn more.
A lot of diesel turbos don't run a bypass valve but most only hit 5-7psi
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if you're going to spend $500 on a new one you can get something either rebuilt to your specs (e.g upgrade to an 18g wheel and retain the 90degree bend) or probably go for something worth the actual hassle of fitting lol.
Heck you may as well buy @Jono24 twinscroll setup and fit that. More power all over the rev range and probably still see decent gains on stock ecu. There's no real point spending $$ on a 20g if you aren't going to tune it, and the stock 16g is way better suited to your car/engine
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best bet would be to take it to someone who can diagnose for you... Was it a definite knock? Not a click or slapping sound? Injectors tick quite loudly, check exhaust isn't hitting anything, or as above maybe inspect cambelt condition. It's pretty hard for anyone to say over the internet. Also old fuel is your enemy in those newer cars, maybe chuck some 98 in it and pray lol. And yea check oil for obvious signs of metal...
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hmmmm, should we all take guesses then ill weigh one for everyone?
ej207 cam, estimated
2.2kg
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yea p2 rails
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tony at dtech sold me a set of what I think are reflowed nissan injectors, was under that $200 mark IIRC. Only 700cc but more than enough for moderate power. Maybe get in touch see what he can offer you?
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replace flexi with straight pipe, you won't regret it! Make sure to coat in thermal paint and heatwrap or retain the factory heat shields.
p.s inb4 loner rages at someone
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9 minutes ago, SpeedySub said:
Went for nice drive with the misses into RS RA. Went up dyers pass to summit road. Down gebbies pass to little River, then up the hill to the eastern Bay part of the summit road and back over the hill through devaucille (spelling may be wrong). Then back over gebbies pass to governors Bay for afternoon tea and then home. The car was awesome. Soo nice round the twisty bits and enough power to leave a grin on both our faces!
Are you a bc convert now
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SAS and m45 are the best in town.
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10 hours ago, Dairusire said:
Yeah I did indeed
Really gutted because those fronts came out really good.
I can't remember if I put a photo o
Up here. However basically the metal on the bottom of the seats has fractured where the mountings are from rails. Essentially making them useless.
anything is fixable, you can also swap the mounts from one seat to another and take the cloth/cushion off as well, guys in the states have done a write up over on nasoic . Just go to pickapart and grab a budget seat with the same version internals as yours and you're away
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1995 Sti v2 project
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
You might have to swap your rear tophats onto them but the fronts should fit. Spring compressors are quite cheap on trademe, think I picked up my set for like $20. You need the macpherson type.
There's a diy sticky section with a bunch of sections of different mods e.g engine/brakes ect. Good reading in there, nearly everything you need to know.