slystiguy
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Posts posted by slystiguy
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Gut the flexi
Heavy coat in thermal ceramic paint
Wrap in the best highest temp wrap you can get
No problems for me around 10,000kms now on this setup, it's a road car though so doesn't see too much abuse.
Don't feed the troll guys.
(I know a few rally guys who don't run flexi in the headers or uppipe, works fine, dunno what loner is on, probably bath salts)
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undo the bottom bolts on the uppipe and pull the whole turbo and upipe out as one piece? then go to town on it. Or use a chisel if you can get in there with one, you should be able to remove uppipe if you remove the bracket bolts to engine?
crc is not that great, use the penetrate stuff, that and a 6 point socket set/couple dog bone style wrenchs
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It's always better to take these cars to a specialist like subirex. In my experience the average garage doesn't know what they're doing with these old turbos and charge through the teeth for them to fumble around trying to figure out the problem lol. Where as a specialist can do a few checks and know exactly what's wrong and get it sorted for much less labour.
I still think you should just ditch that speedlabs chip, find a z5 or similar ecu and swap back to greys. These cars go pretty good in stock form (160kw atw in my car with a huge leak in the uppipe on a stock ecu)
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On 12/4/2016 at 2:18 PM, slystiguy said:
Swap back to grey injectors and ditch the speedlabs chip. Sadly every single one of this ecu I've heard about has popped the engine shortly after install, unsure if just because weak engine or random contributing factors? Or it could be a bad tune/match. I've used it and stuffed an engine from it but I was deliberately seeing how far the stock engine would go lol (the guy I sold it too also blew his engine). Keep the chip for a later date or send it back to him and get a 6k/7k ecu tune put on it... or send it to me so I can play with it.
I'd say the injectors and speedlab chip will be the cause of your issues.
If you do want to keep running it I'd suggest you get a wideband/knock indicator before going further.
EDIT* if it's overheating that's not a good sign though
Has it got water in the radiator/toptank ? When my HG went it was pushing water out the overflow. Isn't there a Auckland subaru guy was it @Subirex Automotive maybe??
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you sure the plugs are on the injector properly? try wiggling the wires and that or get a test light as above. Seems weird. Don't think o2 would cut a single cylinder but you might wanna consider changing oil if there's been too much petrol in there as it runs down the bores into the oil. Must be a local guy who can sort it for you lol it's pretty easy stuff
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you can use an led light to check if the wiring to injector is working, basically wire it in temp to the injector plug and it should flash every time it pulse the injector. Don't use a high wattage bulb of any kind, has to be super low wattage
maybe it's time you searched for some outside help? Offer some cash and beers to one of the guys in auckland on here or dobc ?
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Helicoil would probably be better but tapping a larger bolt should work fine
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glad you got it sorted, grab yourself a multimeter and youtube how to read resistance, might save you $$ in the future and it's a simply way of identifying condition of coils/leads
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Any grade 8 bolt will do.. at a guess it will be m10x1.25 or m12x1.25You can get a thread file from supercheap for like $10, super handy things to have, they have a wee gauge thing so you can see what pitch a tread is, you can also get like a fold out gauge (like a feeler gauges style thing) that reads thread pitch
Once you have it you'll wonder why you didn't get one sooner haha
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23 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Hmmm.. you actually tried that stuff? Alot of the more hardout options make it worse than nothing at all
yup use it on my bc legacy , ill do a before and after for you guys, it works very well. Also used it on like that plastic bonnet vent strip between like windshield and top of bonnet came up like new. It leaves a residue and you end up needing quite a lot of product to get it that dark black again
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wastegate actually working?
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Mothers do a good product, black restorer or something. I'll take a pic for you guys. It generally lasts a few months but it's just one of those jobs you gotta do every time you clean the car
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I thought the 3rd port is just a bleed valve? I don't think you can adjust the rate it bleeds at to control boost lol... . The boost control always goes between the turbo nipple and wastegate nipple. ? You're adjusting the rate at which the wastegate opens and closes, that is what controls the boost and allows it to build higher. Adding a restriction to the bleed nipple on boost control solenoid will do nothing? Me and a bunch of others don't even plumb this back in... (you must block the nipple post air intake if you are doing this) . Tbh it's been yonks since I used a factory solenoid
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you sure you plumbed it up right? Sounds like it's hitting the fuel/boost cut of 14.5 psi
Should be running 12 on that ecu I think so could possibly just chuck it back to stock setup. Not a lot of room to tweak those early ecus
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Worth mentioning speedlabs does do a yellow injector tune. So maybe think about getting a wideband/see if someone will lend you one/take it to dyno
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93 wrx ra runs grey, I repeat for the 3rd time go back to grey injectors. Ignore what you've read on the net. Yellows didn't arrive in cars until 1997ish
Well let me know when the engine pops lol... Hopefully I'm wrong...
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Swap back to grey injectors and ditch the speedlabs chip. Sadly every single one of this ecu I've heard about has popped the engine shortly after install, unsure if just because weak engine or random contributing factors? Or it could be a bad tune/match. I've used it and stuffed an engine from it but I was deliberately seeing how far the stock engine would go lol (the guy I sold it too also blew his engine). Keep the chip for a later date or send it back to him and get a 6k/7k ecu tune put on it... or send it to me so I can play with it.
I'd say the injectors and speedlab chip will be the cause of your issues.
If you do want to keep running it I'd suggest you get a wideband/knock indicator before going further.
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Best get back to stock grey injectors to figure out if that's the issue, unless you have access to a wideband sensor? Check to see if ecu has a chip in the corner of the board.
Apart from that I assume you've checked the coils for cracks? You can test the resistance on them to see if one is stuffed.. How do the plugs look?
First pic plug looks like your p/s pump sensor? And non stock pump fitted?
Other one can't really see... Could be o2 but hopefully yours would still be in the stock position on the exhaust manifold
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7 hours ago, SpeedySub said:
Slight hijack of thread, but can anyone tell me what the doofer is above the BCS, its the one without all the arrows pointing to it and has a couple of vacuum hoses off it.
P.S I can supply photos if required as well
that is the map sensor, on a bc they are only good for about 1bar before they are near maxed outoh sorry you mean the other one haha I actually dunno what exactly it is, some sort of pressure sensors , old version of pruge control? aka exhaust gas re-circulation oir EGR valve ?
So to clarify
Small black thing on the far left is the map sensorlarge 3 way valve in middle is the boost control solenoid
small top valve is the EGR or purge solenoid (basically opens/closes that charcoal canister thingy, stuffed if I know when/where it opens though haha
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I dunno what torque the newer ones run but the older ones have a pretty high amount on them. I would hazard a guess any grade 8 bolt would be fine how ever I'm not an engineer
just put something in there in the mean time and grab a couple new bolts from partsouq (good time to get any other clips/gaskets you might need in the future)
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google is your friend eh
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could also smash on a smaller socket onto it and use a breaker bar
if you can get your grinder in there that would probably be the quickest way
(penetrate spray is your friend)
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I run an electronic one on my bc, would happily use either manual or electronic. Boost spikes can be for a number of reasons but I doubt at those sort of levels it's much of an issue. Unplugging your solenoid will bring up a CEL. I would suggest before you go turning the boost up you grab an AFR gauge and check the engine isn't leaning out. Plus they're a good tuning tool to have for future upgrades/compatible with link. And probably good to do the fuel pump wiring mod and make sure it has a upgraded pump in it. Good time to check out condition of coils/plugs too as the more boost you have the more likely you will be to have spark issue up in the rev range. Those ecu run like 12.5 psi anyway? And cuts at 15ish so there's not much room for tweaking. Generally putting a couple psi into a factory tune won't hurt it but you might not get much of a power increase. Make sure you run good fuel so your det chances are reduced.
P.S You need to do a garage thread so we know what mods your car has
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Has it got water in the radiator/toptank ? When my HG went it was pushing water out the overflow. Isn't there a Auckland subaru guy was it 
just put something in there in the mean time and grab a couple new bolts from partsouq (good time to get any other clips/gaskets you might need in the future)
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Up pipe heat wrap
in Engine Related
Posted
Dude... No. You can't talk to people that way. I don't know why you bother saying anything at all... Seems you just like to argue with anyone over anything. You're just so petty, every single frekn time.
From someone who has gutted the flexis in both headers and uppipe I can assure you this cracking nonsense is only relevant to cheap thin walled A/M headers. Stock cast ones are the business for mods. And this isn't just me talking S*** this is what SAS run on their rally car. The factory system is fine, low maintenance in comparison. I'm sure if heat wrap lasted for 100,000 kms they would use it