RAYDEO

Name:Raymond Heron Car/s:V5 STI RA V-Ltd Phone/s:0276187075 Email:[email protected]

yeah my engine builder recons its a mint engine (should be for the price i paid) anyway... sorry to hijack thread

my fogies are noisy as hell... even when warm.... not as bad as cold but still audible

oops lol sorry totally forgot... i did test it tho... and they both worked fine here... all i can suggest is check, double check and triple check your settings. failing that network them up and copy his music stash to your michine... or use a USB memory stick...

ok as promised heres a step by step to building a new engine... first, find a good reliable engine builder. someone with a good track record with the specific type of engine you are after. in this case i used Bruce saxton, ex-engine builder for Possum Bourne. he had build numerous engines for both race cars and road cars. DONOT go for the cheapst person you can find. 2. decide what you want, and work out a budget. engine builders will usually charge more on their hourly rate if you scorce your own parts. theres also the chance you will get the wrong parts. once you have decided on a budget, ad a good $500 to that for bits that may need replacing over and above. i was quoted $8000, i ended going $450 ove budget as i needed a new crank etc TRICK FOR YOUNG PLAYERS if your rebuilding your engine due to a buggered bearing make sure you accound for a new oil cooler. you can never garentee you have cleaned out all the metal shards. 3. WORK OUT WHAT UPGRADES YOU CAN AFFORD. etc forged pistons. new computer, race bearings. ported heads. new clutch*, new spark plugs as the engine is out you may as well replace the clutch and sparkplugs. allow a good 3 weeks if your builder is doing most of the work. remember to get your heads hardness checked as well. parts list: oil pump oil seals water pump gasket kit cam belt tentioner idelers rocker cover gaskets (not included in gasket kit as they can be model specific) turbo in gasket turbo out gasket bearings conrods pistons crank running in-there are any schools of thought on this. according to bruce (remembering he has built many many engines) drive normally, donot full boost, and donot red line untill the first oil change. Coolent - run on water only for the 1st 4-500 khs then replace with a mix oil change - first change due when oil show signs of discolouration or 2000 khs, wich ever comes first. NEVER cold start and plant foot... car needs to warm up if you have installed forged pistons these will be noisy when cold... ill add to this post as i remember stuff cheers

could easily have... lucky i know the wof guy so he let me off... its not so much the speaker thats in the hole... its wether or not you had to cut any metal to get them in there... cutting metal = bad...

i have 6.5's in the doors and 6X9's in the parcel shelf... found out during my wof they cut the holes for the 6X9's so im assuming they were around 6" from factory

moral of the story.... dont buy a MAC ill try also tonight...

Fiberglass pods FTW!

that may be true... but the price f the car plus the price of the engine wouldnt be far off what alot of people pay for their car in the first place. and they may still end up with a buggered engine

my doors have 6.5" in them, but i also made wooden spacers for them as they were too deep...

Laim from Wellington would be a good person to ask for a price... ill look at my quotes tomorrow (theyre all on my desk @ work)

wasnt jsut a plain rebuild... some upgraded bits and slight mods along the way

extra money chris... the thing cost me $8000 as it was

i can do it... can even bring it up to you in a week or two txt me the details... you have my number

ill sell you mine... similar to this (looks identicle possibly a different model tho) 4x50 watt speaker outs front rca out rear rca out sub out highpass filter triband eq ipod in (works with touch but dosnt charge) aux in plays mp3 cds etc

after a long night spend slaving away in the work shop.... heads are cleaned, put together and bolted on oil pump, water pump, oil cooler are all on, aswell as a newly painted sump Fly wheel is michined and on (thats Bruce int he photo) Cam pullies attached and ready for cam belt... and [glow=red,2,300] RAYDEO V.2 IS ALIVE!!!!!!!![/glow]

Yep, no excuses now!! You even have a healthy car to thrash... maybe [quote name='chickinsteelcaps said: so raydeo... we gana have a Chch Roadside Rescue when you're up here? maybe

"much debate" was refering to the pistons... as i called them "semiforged" and couldnt be bothered with people flaming me for something along those lines

much debate... to put it simply, sti=semi forged pistons non sti-cast pistons different turbos different clutches different gaskets different inctecoolers sti=usually headlight covers non sti=fog lamps some sti's have a bigger spoiler (depending on verson) many other small differences... not to mention the power difference... :-P

remember you need to do your breaks and handeling as well as power...

ahhh, never thought of that lol

T/C ??? yeah we did have an issue tightening it... when i did mine i put it in gear and stamped on the brake while someone was tightening and loosening it lol but as i said before, this is an auto

ofcourse im talking about on a track... im not that stupid... lol and its quite loud... can hear it easy... look at this vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MW-5G-_e4u8 from 2:06 till 2:11, it sounds like a kettle boiling in the back seat lol AND THATS WITH IT CLOSED

that sits with the rear cover theory...