5UBZRO

Done this!! thanks heaps for the run through!! weighed all the s##t up that i removed and came to just over 7kg with the motors, central locking solenoids and thats not including the outer door cards. didn't remove the side intrusion bar either, the whole dents on the outside of the door thing sorta put me off for now.

I am using 17x8.5 rims with those tyres, they fit okay, but would ideally be suited to a thinner rim a bit better - like a 7.5 or 8" wide. I will be using 245/40/17 semis next, now that I have rims wide enough to suit that size tyre. Yes wide 17" rims in 5x100 PCD are not the easiest to find, and if you do find them , snap them up quick fast! best you put some good locknuts on them!!! next time i see you, some 16in TE37s might magically appear on your car :P

thanks guys!! must keep eyes peeled. oh and as for this thread, gc8 running 205/50/16 potenza re55s. had no touble with wofs etc. had them on the car since december, done 2000kms on them so far with still plenty left in them, actually for sale if anyone has some 17x8.5s for sale! as for the wet, had them in the wet on manfield with only one scary moment due to driver error All in all it does what i want and begining to find them easy enough to get heat into quickly for sprints etc.

Sorry in advance for the hi-jack. what width wheels are you running with these tony? trying to find some wide 17s that will fit my car, but no luck so far.

5UBZRO manfield 1.19:74 11-4-10 round 1 intermarque sprints

5UBZRO- hampton downs 1:17.2 WRX STi RA ver3 Awsome track!! was only my 2nd ever track day. just a pointer for people who have been/plan on going there, watch turn one!! it comes up reeeeaaally quick!! almost over cooked it a couple of times!!

Thats what I like to hear!! not driving it hard enough if your not breaking something!! cant imagine it would be a cheap fix...

Just in the process of wiring up an eboost to my rex and was wondering while im at it, what are the 4 solenoids/things with wires out the ass of them on the right hand strut tower? Because the car will be running an aftermarket ecu ie link g4 with the e-boost, which of these units can be removed? i will try add a pic..... oh and the car is a 97 wrx sti ra

Quick release steering wheels are a no no too. plus with no steering wheel its nothing a pair of vice grips wont fix if someone decided to pinch it.

running x2 sets of the gizzmo ones are good if your flipping an sti manifold as your p/s pump and reservior clears it with no issues

i have a set of seat rails. out of a bg5 legacy. someone inform me if they will fit.

Ok well i have put all new power and earth wires to/from the fuel pump along with a new relay (fuel pump in boot, battery is where back seat used to be. Now all i need to do is run a wire from the old relay plug to the new relay for the switching current. But is the original relay normally open or closed? also what color is the wire which i need to get for the relay switching side of things?? any help would be great!!

haha oops sorry ur right! And it wasnt that long ago i did mine! sorry for the confusion.

Took me a while to figure out how that little bugger worked when reassembling tho. To remove I had to pull the pin on the fork and to put back in I had to whip off the clutch and remove the inside bush. then hope it engages when the housing's back on. Yea they are a push type clutch, first application of the clutch will engage the release bearing into the fingers. when you say "inside bush", what exactly do u mean by that?

That would have been my first diagnosis since it was mention that it does it with the clutch partially engaged...

Very Very well done, geez if only i had read that before i bashed my head against the wall from going around in circles many of times. thanks guys!

yea the guy that built that red rex did it in 2 weeks! not a bad effort but it was done very rough and he had a bit of trouble with gearboxes. as for the drivetrain falling out that is total shit. He had to move the front cross-member and steering rack back 50mm to get the motor in, which when going around the corner at the top of pots hill at +140k caused it to bumpsteer sending the new owner of 15mins into the paddock. I was talking to my certer and apparently a bit of shit went down with it being certed. A slight dodgy or gray area. If your going to do it, do it properly. good to see your doing plenty of r&d on it. good luck!

Sorry redline aren't open at 9pm.

What size and off-set wheels do i need if i wish to upgrade to the 8 pot d2 brakes? has anyone gone down this road?

just repco or bnt mate

i did a straight flip with my v3 manifold and put x2 sets of the gizzmo phenolic gaskets which lifts the manifold 6mm so as to clear the p/s reservior and prevents heat soak through to the manifold. just cut a few bits off the alloy alt/air con bracket and flip the alternator straight over to where the a/c pump was, then all you have to do is make a small adjuster bracket for it. a good time to do a parrallel fuel set-up while you are at it. by doing that and flipping the fmic so that the inlets are up the top i shortened a huge amount of pipework out of the car. you will need a new 5pk1105 belt if running standard pulleys or i my case a 5pk1045 if running gfb pulleys.

Now in simple terms, Does a clubsport event class as an event that can be marked off in a cars log book so as to keep up the minimum x2 events a year for having rollcage/bars, harnesses etc...? Also do you have to have a full cage for clubsport events or is a homolgated 1/2 cage acceptable?

haha all good. it was a bit misleading now i read it. all blocked off now. amazing how much useful info i have gathered off here. Now while on the subject of cooling, there are two pipes that come off the water pump and run up the front of the motor. One plumbs into a heater hose, where does the other go? onto the bottom of the header tank? its been 18months since i pulled the motor out and the memory is a bit scratchy haha.

Hmmm lets see, i would run the turbo water cooled if i could. But its a brand new master-power t-70 which isn't water cooled so that puts paid to that. And i have beefed up the oil cooling considerably, so fingers crossed i won't have any trouble with cooling there. the reason i asked that question is i remember someone asking on here a while ago about blanking of the heater hoses as they wern't going to run a heater and someones reply was that you had to bridge or loop it rather than blocking it off. all i was concerned about was wether the same applied to the turbo cooling side of things.

Im going to get a custom header tank made and if i can get away without having to run another hose i will. just wondering if anyone has come across this before...