BLSTIC

When you complain about lag you *really* need to tell us what is happening with the boost. For example my VF10 equipped GT could be making 10psi at 2500rpm in 3rd. When I had a leaking pre-turbo exhaust it wouldn't get to 10psi until 3000rpm. If you don't have a boost guage it is going to be hard to diagnose your problem. Unless you mean it's missfiring? That's a different issue again, and is related to the coils rather than the turbocharger (assuming those were the only two changes).

The little guy in the ECU should turn the light out once the fault dissapears. What you can if you want to lose the solenoid altogether is measure the resistance of the solenoid and wire a resistor with the same resistance across the plug. Costs you 7c (plus solder and tape) to save 100g and some mess. Really only worth doing if you need the solenoid for something else (ie if the gizmo used it).

The engine looks to be pretty far back in relation to the front wheels. Is it RWD instead of AWD?

Mine was the 250t that was there. They didn't even put the air-fuel ratio meter on, let alone the ignition pickup. Everyone else got the sniffer, so I assume standard cars don't count?

I can ignore torque completely because of gearing. Power at the wheels and mass of the car are the only things that are really important (aside from traction, which neither car has issues with off the line). At 55km/h the subaru is doiong roughly 6000rpm, and allegedy making 97kw. At the same speed the falcon is doing about 3500, and making 80kw or so. If both cars actually are making as much power as they are supposed be, the subaru shoud be significantly faster (until it has to change gears), but it isn't, they feel about the same. So I'm left with two possibilities: The subaru makes less power than claimed, or the falcon makes more. If the falcon didn't make the same amount of power as every other stock EF-AU that I have heard of, it would be an option. But 100-110rwkw seems to be the norm for them.

I think it can't have that much power because it doesn't feel anything like ~100kw at the wheels should in a 1450kg car. Also my EF Falcon (with 157kw @ flywheel new, and 290,000km on it) was measured at 103rwkw (different dyno) and it was significantly faster in anything other than a standing start, despit weighing in 100-150kg heavier. I'm aware that the 120kw figure was at the flywheel, that's why having ~100kw at the wheels is so confusing, especially when the car is so slow. They weren't saying that it was a calculated flywheel figure or anything like that, so it's kind of hard to believe. Maybe this is one of those dyno's where a standard BF5 GT can roll out 150kw at the treads (more than they made at the flywheel when they were new)...

Yeah, 97.6 kw at the wheels for a standard 1995 Legacy 250t. I mean it has 120kw out of the box, it's 15 years and 220,000km old, and it's an automatic AWD. Surely I can't possibly have 97kw at the wheels after all that. Has anyone else had an unfeasily high power reading before? (oh, my EF falcon, with 6rwkw and 100kg on the legacy, was significantly faster)

I *should* just put the straight through one I ripped off this honda in there. But it's wet and I'm lazy. Can just replacing the rear muffler eliminate that muffled wheeze sound at high rpm? I don't need the car to sound like a cleveland with a missfire, just some interpretation of that howl that gives most people shivers... (Ie smooth and deep. Kinda like what SR's and RB's can sound like with the right exhaust at high revs)

I have a complete RS/WRX hybrid engine here to rip bits off... On second thoughts... for sale section...

I have since realised this and have commenced hanging my head in shame.

early (pre 97) sohc EJ22's run 9.5, later run 9.7. Lineball with the EJ25 DOHC compression. Can't find DOHC information. EG33 runs 10:1. How much boost do they shove through the EG33?

Just checked it. It's 9.5:1 apparently. I should be able to run 7psi on that much compression if I'm careful with tuning. has anyone done this?

Pretty much the only parts I don't have are the dump pipe and turbocharger, everything else I can either make, adapt, or have anyway. What's the compression ratio of the 250T? I won't do it if I have to crack the engine. The plan is a 40% increase in power (which will get me to twin-turbo kind of pace), which I need at least 7 psi for.

Shouldn't we have a tutorial section in here? In the near future I'll be doing a CV, front brakes, oil change, and trans service. I'll be making tutorials anyway, but there should be a section so they are quick to find for people, without clogging a sub-forum with sticky threads. I have also done two non-subaru tutorials (manual conversion and front disc and pad replacement, both on an EF) that I would like to add purely as a reference, but there is no appropriate section.

I'm aware of that particular one. The solution for that is to obtain another nut, screw it on to the thread, and hammer the nut. Still might damage the bearing, but the thread stays on fine. Last time I did a sealed for life wheel bearing I used crc, a pry bar, and a soft hammer. The one on the prelude we just stripped came out just by pulling. Hopefully the subaru one is the same...

As the title says, I'm thinking about replacing a CV in my BG Legacy. Is there anything I should look out for? Incedentally I'll be doing a tutorial, so we will all know eventually, but I would rather have the proper tool/part at hand.

+1 for DBA being good. Brakes went from crap to good with them (slotted discs and base model pads all round). Although I was running endless pads (apparently so named for the endless pressure you need to apply to stop the car) before this. That was also on an EF Falcon. Before the 'endless' pads I was running bendix ultimates. Long story short they were the uber shiznits. They lasted numerous track days and almost 40,000 road km without a hitch, worst I got was a bad smell coming off the track. That was on the stock discs with the dust protectors still in the standard mags (Airflow? Who needs airflow?). I need to do the discs on my legacy, as well as the RF outer CV joint. I might have to do a tutorial for the CV. I might also try and out-do you for a brakes one though...

$500. Old owner complained of overheating within 10 minutes of cold startup. So I removed the thermostat and took it for a lap. It didn't overheat (or even heat up) so we covered half of the radiator and drove it home (Tapanui to Dunedin). Evidently after the first thermostat broke/jammed it never got bled properly. So the car cost $757.20 (212 for 12 months rego, 45 for warrant, 500 for car) and all I need to do is replace the knock sensor, put the thermostat back in, and bleed the radiator system properly. Yay for my good luck. Incedentally that was this morning. I am already on to a buyer...

BF5 GT here. It's well and truly (not so nice word) though. Or at least the engine, gearbox, and windscreen are.

Oh, and the 3.3 had something subjective that the RB30 didn't. Injected ones (that ran smoother and came with beautiful extractors) with a big exhaust sound a lot better than the average RB30, to me anyway.

I know the history of the engines, but it was more of a 'what if' scenario. I mean the ford engine evolved from a 170 (or less)ci non-crossflow, to a 250 to a crossflow. Then another engine with similar bottom end design was made with an OHC head, and now it has DOHC, 24 valves, and variable everything. I imagine something like a 6500 rpm redline 3.0 with about 150kw would have been the end result, with turbocharged variants pushing the 210kw mark. Nothing too special by todays standards, but like the ford engines, the mechanicals would almost bolt straight up to older cars... But back to the topic: Additives that work. Anyone?

Yes it can be checked. Locate the boost control solenoid. It will have three air lines going to it. One will be connected to a boost source (Usually turbocharger outlet, occasionally after the intercooler), another will go to the wastegate actuator, and the last will go to the air intake between the air flow meter and the turbocharger. As for checking it, remove it (the last one, the one that goes to the air intake) at the boost controller end. You should be able to blow through. On some cars there is a restrictor in there, so it might be a little difficult, but if you have to blow so hard that your cheeks hurt, it's considered blocked. Have you ever run an octane booster in the car? If you have a half empty bottle lying around, try it.

If the hose between the boost control solenoid and air intake became blocked this would happen. But it would stay blocked, not randomly unblock for no apparent reason. Run 98 (if not better, just don't use avgas), and get some of that Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner into it (if it hasn't been done in living memory). I haven't had any experience with the cleaner, but it's supposed to work well. *edit: Spelling and missed a few words*

Meh, but when the alloy headed Camira we had put up with similar amounts of mistreatment for longer and never failed (while the radiator caps were on...) you have to think of the worth of the additive (the oil wasn't anything special). I should have put that in the first post as well. I wonder what would have happened if holden kept the straight 6? Would it have eventully evolved into a DOHC, 24v, variable valve timed thing that the ford engines eventually did? I know there was a rotary valve head available for the grey motor, so it's possible.

3.3 EFI. The last gasp of the holden straight 6