BLSTIC

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  1. No not really e85. Port water/meth injection. More or less as effective if all goes to plan. And yes, compound turbo. I want as much torque and throttle response as I can get, along with around 400whp. I don't think there's any one turbo that can do that and provide a low-mid range that isn't worse than stock. If I was "only" after 300whp I could do it with a single though. I'll still be doing the little things like choosing the best heads and manifolds, optimising cam timing, doing a minor porting job, etc, so it will breath slightly better than stock. Might even go for avcs if the megasquirt can support it. I just don't want to go wilder than factory STI cams as that will lose me too much low end. But I digress. Dairusire, I want to know how much torque I can get from one of these blocks before it just can't hold together any more, what the weaknesses are, and if they are easily fixed with off-the-shelf parts like stronger bolts and studs. Pinning the main bearings isn't something I would have thought of in relation to an EJ. Seams feasible though, and not horribly expensive. What about the case and head bolts? When do they become a problem?
  2. I've got a closed deck in my gen1 legacy, and I'm thinking of building it to be a torque monster to develop power rather than rev much higher than stock (it's an auto street car that I don't much care to have big cams and a high stall in), if I do anything in that regards it will just be stock v3/4 sti heads and cams. Just assume I'm running E85 and have a compound turbo setup for it, so actually making the boost and detonation don't really come into it. But at some point I'm going to run out of strength in my conrods, head bolts, case bolts, and bore, probably in that order. What are the generally accepted torque/boost limits of each component? Eg I'm aware that somewhere between 35 and 40psi the bore itself can split, so I should stay away from 35psi. How much abuse can the case and head bolts take? What about stock sized replacements? The stock rods, how strong are they?
  3. Bl/BP, the first twin scroll legacy, 03+. Gen 5 is the next shape, and they had low mount turbos
  4. So will the oil pickup fit my block? The pictures (drawings, not photos) imply they mount 90 degrees out. I don't I know if that's bad drawings or my oil pump is different to the phase 2 motors
  5. As in the title, I'm thinking of fitting the gen 4 or 5 (or maybe gen 4 then gen 5 depending on how dumb my plans get) manifolds to my early closed deck block. Partsouq images say the sump is a very similar shape but the oil pickup mounts differently, but those are just drawings and not photos. Has anyone put either sump on an early block before?
  6. That would be fantastic. Also, possumlink be awesome if you've got one you don't need. Even if I can't pony up for it my flatmate (who needs the second set of piping) probably will, along with any performance parts you might want to part with. We both want to eventually have 250whp if that helps anything
  7. So both my flatmate and I have gen 1 legacy GTs with not one whole intake pipe between us. What are you guys doing to replace these now 30 year old items? There's a turbo-intercooler pipe on Ebay for v1-2 wrx that looks like I can cut it short to go to the water-air intercooler, but I'd need to compare my intake piping to the WRX to confirm. There's nothing for the resonator to turbo pipe that isn't just a normal flexible bend that looks like it could break though. Any ideas? Switching to a v3+ intake manifold to run under-manifold is not an option at this point, I'll do that when I get beyond what I can do with the factory ECU
  8. Yeah I might end up going for one of those, depending on how my nefarious turbo plans work out. At 250whp I'll be running a fairly small, modern version of the TD04L that shouldn't need one (Holset do a replacement that takes TD04L housings and flows 32lb/min), but after that I'll have to get inventive. Low-mount twin-scroll inventive, probably. But at that point I'll be making far more torque than the factory ever dreamed of. Clutch packs and bands probably won't hold a full throttle shift any more, so I'll need some internal upgrades and an engine & trans controller that can cut torque on shifts. This is getting expensive...
  9. So I've just got myself another first gen GT, and it's auto. I also eventually want to push this thing pretty hard down the drag strip. I'll certainly have 250whp before I stop, possibly 300 and have daydreams of 400whp. I can't see how it could survive the latter and only *might* hold the former two if I can do some pretty trick ECU stuff. Are there any workshops in NZ that can supply the parts to strengthen any of the 4EATs or have I got to order from the states?
  10. I might come along if my charade is up to the challenge...
  11. Anyone know if the crank/cam angle sensors are the same? If they are I\'ll just use the old loom, and ADD the ignition part of the \'correct\' loom. Because he\'s going to build a 2.5 DOHC for it...
  12. Hey y\'all. Latest screwed up wiring mission. A mate has requested that I wire his speedway car. It\'s a BC(some number). Either way it came with an EJ20 DOHC, and it\'s the first generation legacy sedan. Not that that really matters because there ISN\'T A SINGLE SUBARU WIRE REMAINING except for the half engine loom that\'s on the 2.5 SOHC (out of a 2000 Liberty). I say half loom because it has the engine loom, but cut before it all joins to go through the firewall (so the injector resistor pack and all that stuff isn\'t part of the loom). What I do have however is the COMPLETE loom (tail lights, fuse box, everything) for the DOHC EJ20 that was originally in the car. So should I just start with the old loom and try make it fit, or start basically from scratch? I assume the only difference is with the coils, as the EJ20 has coil packs on the head and the EJ25 has the wasted spark system. Unless the BC didn\'t run sequential injection? The wiring diagram I have for the EJ25 implies that the later ones do. If it helps it\'s all going to be plugged in to a Link G4 Storm. So actual computer/crank angle sensor compatibility doesn\'t matter, just the plugs and wires. Long story shortened: I have mangled and half gone loom for the correct (EJ25 SOHC) or complete loom for wrong engine (EJ20DOHC). What should I use, given I\'m using aftermarket management and the EJ25
  13. 7.8:1 The engine apparently has forged crank, rods, and pistons out of the box. No-one modifies the bottom end in these except when they wear out, and there\'s lots of 200hp ones. There\'s even one nudging on 300hp with the stock bottom end. It has a 5 figure redline though... But it should be noted that there is no \'normal\' version of the engine for you to mix and match compression ratios with. All DOHC CB engines are turbocharged and have the same internals, which are mostly incompatible with the SOHC carby versions.
  14. It can start to make boost going up a hill at 3000rpm, at 4000 it can hit 12psi, holds that til 5500 then drops to 10psi by 7500. It\'s kinda like a TD05 on an early wrx. Turbo too big for decent response during sane driving, but produces mad top-end mumbo. Boost control is via factory electronic solenoid and a strategically placed T-piece. Incidentally the car is for sale. Anyone keen at $2200?