Jord
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Posts posted by Jord
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Right so went and had another go at trying to start it, got it to run for about 3 seconds before dying. Tried a second time and noticed the CEL lamp wouldn't illuminate and the fuel pump was constantly running - no ignition. Tried a third time and I could here relays ticking in behind the glovebox. So the problem seems to have no consistency to it, could poor earthing cause issues like this?
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Sorry yes should of mentioned I checked the codes.. nothing present.
Car has a Uniden alarm/immobiliser that came fitted when I purchased the car. Was very poorly wired in, but had it rewired two years ago. Unsure if it has anything to do with the problem, you can here what sounds like the central locking clicking very fast when cranking the engine?
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Right so my 99' B4 has developed a electrical problem that has me rather stumped. The car has had the battery run down many times over the years mainly from having the car sitting unused for weeks on end and the alarm draining the battery. Since buying a new forester as a daily, the car sat unused for approx 1 month before being used again. When I went to start the car, unsurprising the battery seemed flat. Attempted to jump start the car which also failed, so I went out and bought a new battery as it was due for replacement anyway. Fitted the new battery and now the car is behaving in a very odd manner. The starter kicks over no worries and the fuel pump primes but the ignition wont catch. Then when I remove the key from the ignition, the CEL light appears very faintly and the radiator fans come on and will stay on unless disconnect one of the terminals on the battery!
Any ideas on where to even start?
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Y'all are leadfoots
Cracked 650+ with my BH GTB on open road trips a few times (under 8l/100k) cause I like to live dangerously
One of the few cars I've had where it got more economical the more I fiddled with it
Even my last BD (or BG? Wagon whatever) would do over 600k on an open road trip consistently
Yeah, I cracked 650ks to a tank last summer on the open road in my BE. Loaded the roof with lugguge too.
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You would need to convert the system to run parallel to make it work, other wise the all the boost would blow back through the secondary turbo until it has equaled the boost pressure of the primary.
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Are you talking about the black faced meters? They are fitted to some C revision and all D revision models
obviously they are physically the same size, but the wiring looms are different so require fiddling to work.
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Dont you you need to change the DP flange as well? Single turbo VFs have a different 5 stud configuration from memory to the 4 stud TT stuff
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Our old Peugeot 405 never was never fitted with a rear wiper from factory.
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Based on the Hippo Sleek body kit by the looks of it.
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No not necessarily, 2001 was the changeover year so some will be FL and others PFL. The year stated on the rego can often be out as well anyway as it depends on when the car was first registered AFAIK
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You sir are a legend! Didnt want to be the one to test things by fitting the intake to an earlier model, but now you have done it for me! Massive help ;D
P.S someone with powers ,please sticky! (looking at you batman)
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Did you order that silicone intake from ebay?
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The black leather also suggests genuine blitzen...
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If you could send me a PM with the shipping cost once you know that would be tops. Im looking at doing the same thing ~B revision
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Yep..
Got mine in black for extra stockness
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Try Jeffs for an estimate..
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Pulled off intercooler and replaced primary and secondary hoses with black silicone units. Looks stock and should flow much better. Nearly twice the diameter at the apex of the elbow! Then managed to rip a small hole in intake pipe to primary... Another thing to replace
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The up and down pipe flanges aren\'t the standard Subaru flanges either so will probably cause extra headache when making an exhaust to suit.
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The headlights are a different shape between the two, but from memory that doesn\'t effect the bumper as the shape change more effects the bonnet and grill area. I have seen several swaps done before using the mismatched lights/bumper but have not done it myself, so cannot give you a 100% answer on that.
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Just replaces mid range lag for increased low end lag. Pretty gutless around town, better (feeling) pull on the open road.
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Im pretty sure the turbo will need to come off to get the up pipe out as it has to come out from the top.
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Correct 3rd gen RSK/GT will have the 294mm rotor, direct swap with the calipers.
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Sorry to hear.... Will keep an eye out for it.
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Thanks for the replies.
Ill pop into Subaru and pick one up on Monday, changing the sensor wont be hard, its getting the stoooopid TT intercooler back on that\'s the fun bit
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Electrical gremlins... Car wont start!
in Legacy & Outback
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Its got a brand new battery in it.