subieboy
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Posts posted by subieboy
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Drove her again...
yae the clutch works perfectly and the temp readings are down to low 80\'s...
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Depending on car, as it is Subaru I\'ll go with them
215/45r17, 225/45r17 - 36Psi
205/40r17 - 34PSi
215/45r18 - 36Psi
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Well where do i start...
Drove car yesterday and pulled up at her work, give her keys and say, the radiator is leaking, dont give it jandal...
On way home she give it the jandal...
So we rescue her on side of motorway (thanks tot he guys who towed her to Ohoka Rd overpass...
Drop at Autotech Rangiora, new header tank, noice and the clutch master cylinder is got poos seals causing it not to work nice... f**king great... vapour lock
Oh well at least it has been a loyal old beast not breaking down
So this car strikes again
Clutch master cylinder is fooked. They ordered 2 different units - both are wrong (using part numbers from Subaru...)
Cost to rebuild/refurb the POS is between $165 & $228 +GST, new one $248 +GST... Refurb is 2 days away, new one here tomorrow
Guess its a new then...
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Have popcorn at ready
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that quote is going to open a can of worms .
how does it render a tire un repairable ?
also i dont think you should remove what ever is stuck in the tire
/quote]
The residue from the temporary sealant is pretty much impossible to repair and it stops the vulcanising solution from sticking to the tyre, so even if the damage is repairable you will pretty much never be able to get it to adhere correctly or safely.
Whats even worse is the goo gets into the actual damage/hole, it then gets to the belts etc and prevents the cement from forming a barrier to moisture...
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that quote is going to open a can of worms .
how does it render a tire un repairable ?
also i dont think you should remove what ever is stuck in the tire
The repair goo forms a layer that is not-removable on the inside of the tyre, you cannot remove it hence the tyre cannot be patched (you need a clean clear surface to use the cement and patch on...
Also, the goo is harmful to aquatic life and hence has to be disposed of as a dangerous chemical - most tyre shops do not have the facilities/training to do so (no Bridgestone/TTSL/Beaurepairs store does). I know this for a fact...
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Well where do i start...
Drove car yesterday and pulled up at her work, give her keys and say, the radiator is leaking, dont give it jandal...
On way home she give it the jandal...
So we rescue her on side of motorway (thanks tot he guys who towed her to Ohoka Rd overpass...
Drop at Autotech Rangiora, new header tank, noice and the clutch master cylinder is got poos seals causing it not to work nice... f**king great... vapour lock
Oh well at least it has been a loyal old beast not breaking down
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Yes
Basically Subaru states that ALL 4 needs to be of the same tread depth/pattern and manufacturer. Subaru goes further to state that all 4 should be replaced at the same time
Most major tyre companies, NZTA, MTA, and car manufacturers specify that if 2 tyres have to be replaced, and they happen to be the front pair, then the new pair should be rotated tot he rear as the car will be more stable under driving/braking/etc. Only a select few state otherwise - i.e. Holden Captiva is only car that specifically states the new tyres must go to the front due tot he cars drivetrain (i.e. they state it will break if you do it the other way)
Most manufacturers specify as above as well, some minor differences too
So if you must leave it on, move it to the passenger rear location, alternatively splash out and buy at least another 1 to match the full size spare, or get ready for a new gearbox
Also while on topic of tyres:
Regarding the use of “temporary puncture repairs in a can” “tyre pando” (the cheap sit from Repco/Suprcheap/et al)
As I understand it they are only to be used as an emergency get me home fix and that it renders the tyre unrepairable. Given that the nail or object needs to be removed for these to work this could also lead to water/moisture ingress into the injury channel which would start to compromise the belts etc.
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How long its been on may be a factor. I normally heat any decals or anything adhesive I want to remove.
I\'m not sure if thats bad practice or not. Then I use Orange Oil I think its called to remove left over adhesive.
/quote]
I think it\'s probably been on a while, like maybe a year or two
Guy next door to my workplace uses a heat gun on a low setting and just peels it off...
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That there is pink sticker & WOF fail.
Stretched far too wide for the size of tyre
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Adjusted the clutch travel/engagement point.
Finally got off my arse and fixed the driver\'s door card rubber trim - 5 years and finally fixed it.
Washing the poor thing.
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6mm spanner and an midget contortionist (preferably female).
Using the tiny spanner, adjust the rod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder. Got to get down into the drivers footwell to do this. There\'s a couple of flats on the shaft to allow the 6mm spanner to turn it.
May need to crack a nut to allow it to turn and then lock back in place once done.
Midget, farkme, an asian female midget would have trouble doing that!
And yes just completed it...
Thanks for the info.
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Legacy got glared at, Mazda got a sub wired into the factory stereo (didn\'t want to change head unit cause it has steering wheel buttons) - and had a crack at trying to get vf27 housing clocked to use as primary, rounded one bolt so thats now a job for a day with more patience
Depending on model & year of car and new stereo, ripco/supercr@p/et al have factory harness adaptors that will let you keep the steering wheel functions
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Jaycar
or try someone with some spare MDF, doesn\'t have to perfect round etc...
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Yep replace and be happy
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^^WTF^^^
???
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Spray WD40 into the internal working parts of it, this may help long term or short term...
5 years and counting at my end so far...
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Mint
Thanks
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Hi Team
How do i adjust the hydraulic clutch on my BH5 GTB?
The bloody thing is out, had the clutch replaced and done a few months ago, and it required adjustment relatively quickly afterwards (less than 50Km after work done) and now done about 3000Km and it is now a pain in the arse as the travel is still all the way there but it engages/disengages in the fist 20mm...
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Same Mrs RS did it as well, wheel became incredibly hot, I vote sticking caliper
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RB26 WRX OBSURD
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Well
It fits
They share components
Because they can
uhm - its fun