THUNDA
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Posts posted by THUNDA
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1 hour ago, Subru said:
Damn how is that so spooly???
Im looking at my dyno chart with vf30 and I get 12psi at 3.5k rpm, 20psi at 4k rpm and 22.6psi at 4.6k rpm meanwhile you got full boost at 3750! Whats the difference between vf30 and vf34?
your spool up is pretty good mate
im hoping my engine can fully spool my garret by 6000rpm LOL
will know in a few weeks ^_ ^
finally gave in and got some solid el headers, no more subie rumble for me
but it will make up for it in the gains
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On 7/27/2017 at 10:56 PM, boostin said:
The issue is with moisture causing corrosion in the inflator casing which can rupture on airbag deployment, sending bits of shrapnel out inside the airbag. Currently only NZ new vehicles are being recalled,
Jesus!
I pictured this happening as i was reading this sentance
epic
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6 hours ago, boostin said:
Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.
No saying boostin is wrong (imo hes a very knowledgeable fella from what i see on the forums) but I've had bad experiences with drilling the thermostat, if thermo is new and heater core is sweet you should have no problems with cooling (on idle/lower rpm - higher rpm different story)
if your unsure of your heater core and dont want to replace it just do the bypass mod, doesnt completely bypass it but allows for more flow so win win imo has sorted alot of heating problems that I know of (mainly in older cars)
I'll deffo be doing ducting (to force air into fmic and radiator direction without exiting at sides)
Try upgrading to a bigger radiator also im running the larger FENIX one - whether its better than stock I cant say as ive only logged the FENIX one but just knowing the core is completely clean and flowing well is good piece of mind
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Yea man^^ still trying to sus out accomodation though
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6 hours ago, Loren said:
Dunlops.
+1 this
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3 hours ago, Inked said:
I can look at the exact model when home I know the brand is Nexen.
Imo you have nothing to worry about, I don't think your tyres will be able to make enough grip to cause oil starvation (be cautious though take those corners safely) you'll have a lot of fun
! I was exiting some corners like a drifting rwd in the dry last time I had street tyres on the track -
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Go baffled sump bro! cost much less than a rebuild
then you can fang fang fang ^_ ^ (disclaimer - fang not covered by warranty)
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19 hours ago, Gripless said:
Pretty sure early to mid 90's Mitsubishi had the FWD bias higher than anyone else and it was only about 60/40.
@THUNDA Guess you're going to have to do a lot of testing or drive in reverse.
DCCD are 50/50 to 35/65 and everything inbetween so still rear bias.
Im not actually going to test the pitch stop rod - I just like to use whatever excuse I need to get some track time in
30seconds on googling shows some auto subarus distribute up to 90% F 10% R
Manual gearbox most common is 50/50
There are loads of variations, guessing it was just simpler to put the rod in every model
But all this talk about pitch stop rods has already made me want to buy one off trademe lol ^_ ^
Turns out they dont have one for my RS so meh
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Yep, not sure on other subis but from memory the majority of power is distributed to the front wheels in an RS (is it 60%? or 70%?)
Ill get one and do some serious track testing (any excuse to hit the track will do)
12 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:Of all people on here i’d say Gotasuby and Boostin are the experts, also Thunda is the trainee junior expert assistant and if they say that happens i’d take their word at it
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Yup, a tiny rod it be but its there to help
when launching hard the momentum causes the gearbox end to try and push downwards - the gearbox mounts help stop this
at the front of the engine it does the opposite at the same time, the front tries to lift, the engine mounts help stop this
the pitch stop rod just helps that little bit extra with both movements by transferring some of that force to the firewall
I've never upgraded one, and have never seen one thats worn out. however i am upgrading gearbox mounts (did the engine mounts already)
If I saw an aftermarket one for a dece price id probably buy it just so I have the peace of mind of 3 strong points while im fanging around the track
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3 minutes ago, Zenki said:
My VPAS10 is in the passenger footwell. I tried very hard to get the 12 to fit, but it ate more legroom than I was comfortable with (it's not a good sign when you don't fit into your own passenger seat).
It could be louder, the bass is mushier than I'd like, and it puts out basically nothing below 40hz. With that said I tend to be a very harsh critic when it comes to sound quality, as far as car audio goes it definitely punches well above its size category. Great for any music without synthesized bass lines - adds a good, chest-thumping* punch to bass drums and does a very good job of filling out bass guitar riffs.
It's certainly not the best thing for D&B, R&B, EDM, etc - but a far cry from having no subwoofer at all, especially if a full-sized sub in a proper enclosure just isn't an option.
* disclaimer - mine points more or less directly at the passenger's torso
Roger that, yeah Ive been in a car that had one (about 8years ago think it was one of those fusion sub tube things - tech is probably better now) and it just sounded like a louder car speaker - i.e - not splitting into a proper low pass frequency.
Im gonna go have a look tomorrow and probably grab one - ive already got all the wiring to the boot so ill prob mount it to the back of the rear seat or similar
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Whats it like bass wise? I had a sub and amp in the boot of my RS when I first got it but I binned it because it was giant and crap - however my car speakers have like no bass at all
Interested in something like this if it can relieve my door speakers and pickup some low tones
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190 is all good imo
think my Rs did 190 with similar mods (I had old Rs hydraulic heads, non semi forged pistons, maxed at 17psi and had an engine that had seen abuse for a lot of its 260,000km life, also the td05 helped out)
curious us about the early knocking though
at least you know the tune you now have is SAFE
so every time you redline it you know there's no damage happening
that was my main worry before I had a tune
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Count me in, just paid for the lot
Had me at 10cent lunch
Will try get a couple of buddies to come with me
Where are you guys staying? Looks like ill be doing abit of bookabatch searching
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I rekon 230kw, oooo you're gonna love it when you get to drive it outa there! so glorious the first time, the second time was good too
c'mon people this is a v7 sti ! cant remember what turbo you have but meh - to the moon! ^_ ^
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Hey bro, I went through this dilemma on mine. Ended up getting whoop as side feeds (1000cc from USA I can't remember) into phase 2 rails on top my v1 mani (yet to be tuned though) think they were 700 and arrived from overseas within a week (check my build thread can't remember where from) as it was too much of a mish going too feed. If you end up going toppies I bet loads of people would love someone knowledgable like yourself to do a write up ^_ ^
Will have some decapped blue side feeds to suit p2 rails spare soon (650 or 850cc can't remember but wasn't even close to maxing on my setup)
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Mine does this also, however ive been told its just what heavy duty clutches do
Super annoying in traffic, as the clutch grabs it shudders the whole engine - might have to get ajay to check the gearbox mounts - they are probably the originals lol
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I had a similar problem ages ago, ended up changing a whole lot of parts for no reason, Could be alot of different things but will likely be pinpointed accurately by a subaru specialist with a ecu scanner, if your in auckland pop into @Subirex Automotive
Otherwise check/ replace the basics
Spark plugs/ coils/ HT leads, fuel filter, air filter etc
Good luck
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34 minutes ago, StrokedEJ said:
Personal preference i love to have an ewg thats vented to atmosphere. Ive always ran it external on several setups. First setup i had a standard v3sti,vf24 3inch ex and front mont and ewg with 18psi spring car ran 230kw@18psi garry capper dyno at the time. Car ran 11.9 @ 186kph at the time full street trim and car ran mint and controlled boost mint. From my experience the go well with a vf turbo.
Pros (from my experience)
Dont need to buy a boost controller
Holds boost better
Sounds cool with a big spring
Cheap mod
Can use factory manifold
Can adjust boosts by changing spring
Cons
Cert required ($350+ if i recall properly)
Illegal if vented to atmo (screams)
Have to fab it onto manifolds(upwards of +200plus price of gate and vac lines and tee peice etc)
I aint here to say get it or not just thought put out my experience so it will help you with your decision
hope this helps...
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
What spring have you got must be like a 2psi spring if it opens inder normal load
🤣🤣
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Ive only ever had an external and it dosent go off unless you put under boost unless you have a 1psi spring🤣 if that even exist. simple dont want to hear it dont thrash it
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
To go up a big hill I have to boost, when i have it on low boost the link makes it open at like 10/11psi, im my car i dont really have a medium setting where i can put load on the engine without the turbo working, the turbo is either not spooling or its spooling up then delivering its whole power
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7 hours ago, Joker said:
legacy thing
hate to say it but those wheels are niiiice, super rally spec looking
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6 minutes ago, boyracer693 said:
Mint! Wasnt sure if there is a boost pill in there so didnt wanna take the risk
Thanks man!
Arc welder sounds like fun. Expect to see some of your projects on the DIY & Crafts page on facebook in the near future then? hahaOh I forgot newer cars came with that pill thing, you'll have to check with your car specifically, ive heard about this pill but never actually seen one
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4 minutes ago, boyracer693 said:
Can i keep it the same size or do i have to reduce it down like it was?
Any size is fine - the hose just vents the excess air back into the intake - you could leave it unplugged and nothing would happen - but obviously plug it back in so its working how its designed to work.
I got an Arc welder for xmas so im looking forward to jobs like these lol - Ive already welded about 10 old spanners to an old spade for no reason ^_ ^
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1 hour ago, JGM said:
Well... I guess you could class this as a Christmas present to myself, considering I picked it up on the 23rd.
Proud of you! ^_ ^
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Spark plugs / coil packs / leads
but it will make up for it in the gains 
at least you know the tune you now have is SAFE
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in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
My td05 20g didnt fully spool untill 4200 iirc, maybe something to do with my super low compression ratio? 7.8:1 i think, dunno but this time round cam timing is different and different headers and w/g setup so hopefully all goes good