THUNDA
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Posts posted by THUNDA
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8 hours ago, boon said:
(Apologies to @THUNDA who I know enjoys a bit of the RAAAAAAAAAAAATCH
But it sounds like even he is getting over it)
Tis true
when I'm on the track, boy do I love it
but driving around normally is ridiculous, especially when your just trying to go up a hill normally lolol
if the Rs was my daily it would definitely get plumbed back in
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2 hours ago, Subru said:
lol good time to fill up the subi...
What does 98 usually cost including the Auckland fuel tax?
Theres an Auckland fuel tax?
costs me $100/$120 to fill up my RS with 98, last about 350kms
my diesel turbo ute gets roughly 700-800kms out of a $60 tank ! Gogo diesel for roadtrippin!
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Yup I wouldnt worry about it man, 95 = all good
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Its a personal preference thing, I knew my EWG wouldnt make a difference in power when I first got it, but it was one of my favorite things I got installed (at the time of installation)
These days im sort of getting over it, because I cant even boost a little without causing a scene lol, even fire shoots out of it sometimes (mate got a vid of me at taupo and these was flames)
As for its legality, yes its illegal, venting fumes to the atmosphere at the front of the car makes your car unsafe, it has to vent at the rear of the car (**using all my strength to not make a sarcastic comment)
Im into 80s-90s turbo cars, and imo a little part of me thinks they suit the Atmos EWG
Newer cars dont really suit it I rekon - I mean, an atmos EWG on a new sti would be gross imo
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5 minutes ago, Kol12 said:
That sounds like fun!
I take it it's not as simple as just adjusting the idle?
It could be a lot of things. But if your idle was fine before - Then turning up may help but you wouldn't have solve the route of the problem. Ie if their was a small vac leak, you could turn the idle up to fix it, but if the leak got worse, you'll start having issues elsewhere
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34 minutes ago, Subru said:
Thinking about getting an external wastegate before my tune.
From what I have heard they can allow for more power gains due to having more control, exhaust doesnt have to crazy as the external gate is sending a bunch of exhaust to atmosphere therefore less flow is required, among other benefits. It also means that if I get a bigger turbo one day I already have a wastegate setup.
To get an external gate, would I need aftermarket uppipe or headers to weld a flange onto it?
Any advantages/disadvantages or any other information I should know about?
To keep that Internal wastegate shut, couldn't I just add a cheap boost controller just for the internal wastegate that to trick it to never open? I would rather not weld it shut..
Youll find lots lots of different opinions on EWG setups here
Youll have cast exhaust manifolds so they are pretty easy to work with, there is a piece of your mani just before the uppipe most people pop off and weld the EWG flange on. Make sure you get someone good at welding to do the welds or you'll be repairing cracks all the time. If you want to vent to Atmo, that's pretty much all the customising work you'll have to do other than boost/vac line related setting up
the above setup will mean you'll have problems getting WOFs, and police will be extra nosey if they see you gating around
If you want to run it so it plumbs back in you'll have to fab up a return pipe that goes back into your downpipe. Lots of different options. You will be able to get wofs with this option
For keeping the internal gate shut, you can sometimes get away with just unplugging the vac line completely. Or a little tack weld on the outside where the actuator arm meets the gates leg? (For lack of a better name)
a 38mm EWG should do
just a heads up though an EWG won't net you more power with your current setup before or after a tune
It will however sound very racecar and in turn be glorious
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Probably a single vacuum leak among many many vacuum lines
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26 minutes ago, Kol12 said:
Put $90 BP 98 (40 litres) in today to see if that would fill it (already had some petrol) and ended up here (green line) This should indicate that the fuel gauge is now correctly functioning...
Is it a definite no no to run the TT Legacy on BP 95?
Looks good to me
Imo its best to run BP 98, but because your car isnt a racecar I think 95octane will be totally fine, ive seen subarus run on 91 their whole lives with no issues, its just how you drive them/how well maintained your car is that causes damage
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On 11/28/2017 at 11:53 PM, Kol12 said:15 hours ago, Kol12 said:
Your right, I'm sure I've been told before but was told again the low half of the tank is dirty and strains the fuel pump more..
I wouldn't worry about that
Sure there may be debris in the very bottom of your fuel tank, but its unlikely it would ever interfere with the fuel pump whether your tank is full or empty
My RS is about $110 to fill up from close to empty with BP 98
So for $50-$60 that picture above looks pretty accurate
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1 hour ago, MattK said:
Any version or year. Dont mind if its wrx or sti
You're easily pleased!
Theres probably a billion of that exact specification on trademe
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1 hour ago, boostin said:
Primary boost is primary turbo (left side) only, secondary boost is both turbos together.
Oh sweet, yeah that makes much more sense
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1 hour ago, Kol12 said:
I have thought about changing down to 2nd to get primary turbo boost but I haven't been sure. If your in 4th gear travelling at 100 km (4th gear sits around 2500-3000 rpm I think?) would it be a bad idea to drop right back to 2nd gear? I know that if I am in 3rd gear hovering on 4000 rpm at 100 km the car does not like being dropped into 2nd at that speed, I'm not sure what the term is called, it's like the engine over revs. Do you know what I mean?
I'm thinking though that instead of dropping to 3rd from 4th to get the secondary turbo spooled up I could drop right back to 2nd and get the benefit of both turbos for an overtake? Since in 4th gear it's hovering very close around the primary turbo rpm (similar rpm to 2nd gear), dropping back to second shouldn't cause a sudden drop in rpm (as mentioned above) You would think you should be able to kick the primary up from in 4th gear but from what I remember I seemed to have some trouble with that. I've been using the 3rd gear and secondary turbo for so long maybe I should see again if I can get the primary to kick in in 4th gear for an overtake...
I probably wouldnt drop it down to 2nd at 100km/h, but i regularly redline to every gear on a track day, think the end of 3rd gets me to 150km/h
Pretty sure you wont get the benefits of both turbos at the same time ever, iirc they come on seperately
Wouldnt it be perfectly set up so you can overtake in 5th? 5th gear at 100km/h should be around 3krpm which would be when the 1st turbo is at a nice power level?
if its auto just floor it when you want to overtake? the trans will no what to do
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36 minutes ago, pl0x said:
Did they mention what values it was set to cut at?
Must have been IAT (>50c or similar) vs rpm or map?
When the car is dead cold, plug the laptop in without turning the car on and see what the IAT is, should be similar to ect around 20c or so depending on ambient.
I recently replaced my FMIC thinking it was doing a poor job (10c above ambient cruising and 30c above in heated driving). Turns out the sensor calibration was 10c high.
Car isnt cold but when I went into the link software yesterday is said IAT was 23* pretty close to yesturdays ambient temp I guess - Its relatively new also but will double check once car has cooled down
I'm booked in at PBMS for 10am friday to get my cold and hot idles tweaked a little (running abit rough on idle both hot and cold, on hot sometimes cutting out)
Car idles great with cyclic idle on so i just use that if im waiting at lights for ages
(cyclic idle sounds more stable than normal idle at the mo lol)
My FMIC is from FENIX - did alot of reading before I went with the fenix brand and i trust its doing a great job (from memory its only a 550 wide cooler so not your usual 600mm - another reason why I went with fenix when upgrading to a big boy radiator.
Also the ic piping locations mean the hot pipe comming straight off the turbo sits directly below the intake on the throttle body, there are lots of little things i can adjust which will help quite alot overall, currently installing a radiator slam panel (just modifying it to work around my p/s pipes)
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Turns out it was IAT getting too hot which caused the "GP Limit 1" to kick in
Looks like ill have to get a CAI sorted :B and maybe some sprayers an d modify some i/c piping
Will be going ahead with oil cooling mods also
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8 hours ago, Batbaruman said:
but that screenshot is from my config, not his. i thought his standard rpm limit was already much lower , like rpm limit of 6.5k or something like that (regardless of condition). did you get to access his file to see the setup on that table? it was just my best guess that this is what is most likely happening
Yeah it turns out my car wasn't getting too hot (max 95*) which I'm stoked about, have sent pl0x the tune file so we should know soon what the gp limit is,
my cold and normal opp temp idle is terrible at the mo (fluctuating/stalls) so it will need to go back to pbms for a little tickle I think. Will be good to know what the gp limit is so they can't adjust it while I'm there
Running great other than that now that my exhaust leak and temp gauges are sorted. Havnt thrashed it anywhere near close enough for any limits to kick in and won't until next track day
2 minutes ago, gotasuby said:Got tune file?
Yup just got it back today so have it handy
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On 12/1/2017 at 11:14 AM, boon said:
Duct the radiator. Use a good radiator. Look at the freshness of your water pump and make sure it's a genuine one. Check your thermostat is opening fully.
Everything is brand new and water pump will definitely be genuine - Ajay fitted it and I trust his work. picking it up tomorrow so will be adding an oil cooler, slam panel for radiator and forwarding my tune to pl0x
Taupo has a play day on the 16th so will probably head down there again
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5 minutes ago, Username said:
My track car is pretty sorted for heat, I can do 20 minute stints screwing it and temperatures remain very stable, oil temp dont go above 90 degrees, unless hood scoop blows off then it goes to 110, water temps stay around 85.
I run oil cooler in the Tmic position, aftermarket radiator with oem fans and oem shrouds attached, hpc coated everything, that made a huge difference to track day temps and temp stability but yes it's not a cheap option but by god it works. IAT temps were pushing 50 degrees on track now stays in the 30's, this is doing 1 min 15 sec laps around Pukekohe constantly for 20 minutes, this is at mid boost (25 psi) on shitty zestino road tyres.
Roger that
yeah I'm looking at setting up oil cooler in the factory Tmic spot
yeah I've got a big radiator in there (same brand as my intercooler, forgot the name but they have good rep) oem fans and shrouds
did you get your intercooler pipes hpc coated? My IAT goes over 50*
I don't really have any CAI box which would probably help
Also the hot Ic pipe (turbo side) is almost touching the cold side at the throttle body
looks like I've got plenty of things to improve on which is promising
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Just now, evowrx said:
Possibly. Will only know once you have logged temps. What oil are you using?
A good one, Royal something 5w30 I think. Ajay put it in after all the running in / dyno was done.
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15 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Being a td05 you can delete the turbo cooling. Just bypass or I blocked mine with appropriate bolt and copper washer. Deleted the top side when I switched to custom header tank.
Yeah have seen quite a few others do this. Would definitely need an oil cooler if I disconnect the water feed right?
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Ive got a v4 scoup crapily installed on mine
Planning on putting an oil cooler where the factory TMIC would be so kinda need the scoup
Going to make up some radiator "slam" plates (mate has one ill make a template out of)
Oil cooler (thermostatic or whatever the temp swtichable ones are)
Read up aloud about it last night so good ideas floating around
some people disconnect their turbos from watercooling altogether
Also getting PBMS to have a look at the log incase its something completely different
1 hour ago, Not_Sean said:aaahhh yeah if its USB should still be possible but would be a nightmare on the android side to chance input source for sensors. Maybe a Windows tablet and just run the USB straight into it?
Yup ive got a windows tablet running the link software live
ive got the data (well some of it) its just tricky seeing exactly what happened as im not too clued up on logging
I thought the car went into safe mode which is set at ECT 100* but it only got up to 95* unless theirs variation in the sensor
Rev limit on the Link says 8000rpm but in real life my car redlines at 7500
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Car clutches are pretty resilient, well, compared to a roadbike clutch, once those start going you've gotta turn around and hope you make it home lol (exaggerated but you get my point)
Might aswell upgrade your clutch if your going to get a new one put in
My new clutch is abit annoying to engage (cos its so badass) but I tried to see what kinda treatment it could handle, did a launch @ 7500RPM on highboost with launch control on, clutch grabbed no sweat
1st gear whines a little now though
no more of that
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Sounds like the clutch but I have a lingering feeling it might actually be
clutch
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5 minutes ago, Kiwiflyboy said:
What about oil pressure is the link got that info? Is the pressure getting to low?
Its got an oil pressure sensor installed for the link, however I cant seem to find any into about oil pressure, but yeah there is also an oil pressure safety from what I was told
Had a PBMS baffled sump installed so hopefully its not oil pressure but will dig abit deaper
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Looks like the hottest my ECT went was 95*
And at the same time my IAT was at 54* (wo hot)
At that point my link clicked on "GP Rev Limit 1"
I cant find out what GP Rev limit is referring to (weather its ECT / Oil temp or IAT)
But it sounds like even he is getting over it)
I take it it's not as simple as just adjusting the idle?
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Hahaha
man I feel your pain
my ute one gets me every time