nickmcgill

lol @ old thread. The ZS controller has been discontinued from production and can\'t be sourced any more. Your best bet is to find a second hand one.

When you say AFM then O2 then temp people would assume you\'re talk about air still not water. IMO.

Where is said temp sensor located ? I thought mine was built into the AFM. Also any recommendations on fuel pumps ? Mines done 280k heh.

Do upgraded fuel pumps actually make a noticeable difference ?

As above, the trans won\'t take it the N/A boxes have half as many clutch packs as the turbos and will get ripped to shreds.

Should be using genuine oil filters only don\'t go near other ones.

I also have a heavy foot especially with the TT\'s to get any good power out of them

I got 266k out of mine before a big end went. (BE5 2000 B4 TT) Was serviced regularly and looked after. I bought it at 180 not sure if the previous owners looked after it though as it had heaps wrong with it initially.

I know of a pretty sweet auto box haha

I was looking at getting the SC but with the availability issues I think I will look into exhaust changes. I\'m gonna get Richard to make up a 2.5" mid section with two resonators once I\'ve got the money. Currently it\'s got factory air box ZS intake "S" pipe, 1.75" silicon turbos to intercooler hoses and straight through exhaust rear diff back. Not sure how much the cats are restricting it but I suppose I will find out soon enough. Also G-box is naffed from wear and tear so likely have more power loss out of that too...

I\'d love to see whats on these cards. Could replace the voices with some more interesting noises.

Timmah linked me to that a few days ago actually. I won\'t have the money for it for at least a month+ but if it\'s there after that I might look into it.

Just found the ZSSC\'s have been discontinued so hopefully I might be able to find a second hand one perhaps otherwise just live with it.

Yep do not feck with the air box with oiled filters or putting pods on unless you\'re removing the AFM completely. I\'ve gone through several AFM\'s at $200 or so each due to an oiled K&N filter.

lol.

Typical Marky lol Yeah basically just adjusts the gear timings to hold longer. I use it 90% of the time on mine as it tends to shift too early sometimes otherwise which is a pain.

Mine\'s Rev C I\'m pretty sure. @ 94 Leone Yes they have separate units for both although com linked (I think that\'s what it\'s called) so they talk to each other. In saying that the trip tronic is apparently controlled by another unit again. @Marky I\'ll look into that, as stupid as it sounds it\'s annoying as hell having it come on boost so quickly. If I do plant it yes it will go into twin range but I\'ll be suddenly also going 120km/h in a 70 zone and going to redline all the time. Ideally with the Z/S I would have it tuned to open the secondary up around 3,500rpm as that\'s where the primary runs out of puff. Giving it better linear power without having to go to such high revs to get the power that I need at the time. Also people have said that the trans will be the main part of the issue with power loss due to the slush box. In saying that my sisters BG wagon had an auto trans and it had stupid amounts of torque in comparison to mine on a stock standard motor with only a mid section and tip exhaust.

Yes it will be in the tank. Fairly easy to do once you\'ve done it once. On mine being a sedan you just pop the base of the seats out and undo the access panel. Not sure on the wagon since the seats can be folded down but shouldn\'t be too hard. The pump and filter can then be removed and changed. Very important do not have more than half a tank of fuel, I would recommend having as little as possible without being completely out. Last but not least I would go with an OEM filter. They are not cheap but I\'ve heard stories of third party ones breaking up and getting debris through the lines and into the injectors etc. Spend that bit more for the peace of mind.

If I was going to upgrade I would be going to a BP wagon with a EZ30. Sadly I only just have the cash to run the fuel in this now. Was going to be a long term thing to look at perhaps around Christmas time. I think I\'m just going to get a custom made mid section by Richard and potentially a ZS controller if it needs it after that.

Howdy, I\'m contemplating finally doing a single conversion to my BE5 providing it doesn\'t cause any warranty issues with Subworx. What would peoples recommendations / estimated costings ? I\'m assuming I would need a new ECU etc for this too. I would be getting it done by Richard / SAS depending on when he had time. Will be run on a auto trans still. I\'m not looking to make bigger power etc just after more constant power band and not having to use the twins every time I want to pass something. I also find my primary spools to fast currently and starts building boost pressure after 2k rpm. Would it be worth upgrading the primary to something slightly larger or would that then go cause issues with the pressure valves for the sequential change over ? Edit : Timmah also suggested potentially a sequential controller if this might be a cheap yet as effective option ?

Whats the estimated life of an O2 sensor these days ?

I\'m not sure if it\'s an ECU controlled thing or if it\'s just the way it is. Regardless you shouldn\'t be loading the car when its cold unless there is a tsunami or something similar behind you. I try and even avoid going above 0psi until it\'s warmed up properly.

You guys talking about this cooler ? I thought they came on all the manuals ?

Good day, I\'m looking at fitting an oil temp and pressure gauge in the future to go with my boost. They are electric gauges and would have senders based in the engine bay. Prosport have this nice wee adaptor plate which would make installation a breeze but would make my oil filter sit lower than I\'m comfortable with. I tend to go on rough terrain often and don\'t want to have it any lower than it is so it doesn\'t get punched or damaged. So what\'s the best options ? Is there other easy ish locations to mount sensors for this ? Is it possible to remove the oil cooler which sits between the filter and the block ? Constructive ideas welcome.

Can also be dodge MAF / AFM, not sure how prone the newer ones are to them being the issue tho.