Wiretap

V5 are inverted struts, V4 are not, best to try to match them up.

The RS block being a non-bspec, will flow significantly less, which is why you're not able to get the spool to make the boost. as for me: 1990 BC5 GT (5MT) running 18psi

$200 to get a boost tap fitted? I hope that comes with gold plated jousting sticks! just go get the vac lines from a wrecker...

what kinda crack/leak is it? there are many parts of the cooling system that can crack and leak...

uhhh.... I found no ball bearings inside the VF10 I just pulled down... the 28, 29 and 34 are the only single-scroll ball-bearing VF's I know of...

The factory mounts for the throttle body are square, so it should simply be a matter of unbolting it, rotating it and bolting it back on

are you able to flip the throttle over or rotate it 90 degrees and just make up a new mount for the cable?

I found it to have no effect on fuel, but makes you tend to wind it round the revs more because you don't get the hard pull from down low like you do with the VF10

Both using standard clutches, and dunno about matt, but I avoid launching, because everyone knows that TY75's dont like shock loading.

MAP, MAF, ECU and injectors

Hub bearings are good, halfshafts are good, as is the driveshaft, I checked all of these, and if it was any of those, I would be doubtful of it occurring at the same time on every car. I'm not so much looking for an explanation, as some input, because if it is this, I don't want to keep going through gearboxes.

I have a complete closed-deck here, if you're nearby. were you mate? Auckland

Bending wheels has what to do with what exactly? TE37s are not exactly known for bending, more like shattering if hit too hard... Also, we're not talking about failures due to abuse here, all three failures were at random, during periods of fairly quiet driving - Drunkenmonkey's first one lost a tooth while pulling out of an intersection normally. - Mine lost a tooth while turning around after pulling out of someone's DRIVEWAY! - Drunkenmonkey's second one, again, intersection, with no thrashing. Sorry guys, but I did go through all the 'normal' possibilities before I arrived at this, I just don't think its anything simple, and it still doesnt explain the way the vibrations build and subside in a wave...

I have a complete closed-deck here, if you're nearby.

Only if you suspect it leaking, really. otherwise just change the cap, but that doesnt sound like what it is.

bridging it out is to put a pipe that joins the two heater core metal-lines together on the block side, excluding the heater core from the circuit without plugging anything. you could have a partial blockage that is simply 'slowing things down' enough for the thermostat to close.

Gearbox years (the ones that are confirmed): - 1993 - 1997 Not Gen 1 RS gearboxes. GTB gearboxes will be replacing them, but if its resonance at fault, that wont stop them blowing.

try bridging out your heater core, my GTS2 had random overheating issues, was due to a blocked heater core.

Righto... so here's the deal Drunkenmonkey's car: blown 1st gear twice, was fine with lowered (and very stiff suspension) for quite a while, but within a couple of days/weeks of the addition of 16" TE37 wheels, BOOM goes 1st, and now, the replacement gearbox has just done the same My BC5: been through a lot of gearboxes bought cheap, failed for various reasons (usually bearings), latest gearbox was a bit chatty in 5th, but fine otherwise, always had TE37 wheels, just fitted ver8 STi suspension with STi aftermarket Race springs... within a week I'm missing a tooth off first gear. Other strange symptoms: when driving on the motorway in 5th, from time to time both cars will experience a vibration that can only be described as driving over hundreds of tiny bumps, it fades the moment you change speed, but fades in and out if you stick to one speed, no suspension bushes are out of spec or failed on either car. My Theory: Drivetrain resonance? A combination of the very light wheels, and very hard suspension, could possibly be setting up a torque-resonance through the gearbox that is literally vibrating everything to death? I'm keen for other ideas, because this doesnt make a huge amount of sense to me either.

if its only overheating going slow, I expect your radiator fans (or one of them) are not functional, knock sensor code will come up if the engine is knocking severely, plenty feasible if the engine is running hot.

Interesting problem both of my BC5s have, that isnt immediately obvious, is the driver's side door switch being faulty and triggering the key-on-door-open beeper every time you make a right turn, so it could be related (I am not aware whether this fault occurs on BE/BH)

170wKw with track suspension (softer suspension absorbs some of the initial torque load, making life easier for the gearbox) is enough to nuke a WRX/RS box, I can tell you that much, my never-launched, otherwise-fine 5MT just dropped a tooth off first gear after a couple of firm pulls through first. There are more factors than power that go into the destruction of a gearbox, torque, the clutch springs, your suspension, condition of your engine mounts, etc, all count.

standard curve for a TD05H running 0.95bar on a BC/BF EJ20G, tends to begin making boost around 3300, hit peak around 4000, hold to redline, if your intake air and/or intercooler are heatsoaked however, you will see the beginning around 3800, and peak around 5000, hold to redline.

Cheap way of getting fueling for running up to 1.2bar, and making a fair whack more power. [quote name='legrs said: well switched the injectors over and put all the sensors off my motor that did go but still no joy, there is spark except for cylinder1,there is fuel pressure and i know the injectors work but it just turns over and doesnt fire at all-doesnt do anything-no cough or splutter so not sure what i have done I may be available to have a look/give you a hand this weekend if you're in Auckland.

the column from any GC/GF impreza will work, though you may have wiring issues with anything post '97.