Wiretap

You're still going to have the problem of the idle control valve, and finding a home for those extra three wires. my advice would simply be to use v3/4 heads/manifold/wiring, that way, it'll at least all plug in, even if the pinning may be wrong and require some wire swapping, at least you wont be making life hard for yourself so to speak.

i have 440s in my car and have no air fuel ratio adjustment, and it has never run lean. how do you figure it will run lean when your putting larger injectors in? I was seeing AFRs of 15-16 on boost, that is NOT very rich, I had to significantly richen things up to make them happy... I can only think of one reason, and (remember, I have the ECU and AFM out of a v3 STi aswell), that is that the VE is significantly different, to the point that I'm coming on boost but not showing enough airflow to get the enrichment needed... EDIT: my only other suspicion is that one of my fuel regs has failed out, but I'd be expecting to see det on the closest cylinder, of which I am seeing none (with knock meter)

You're assuming the year is legit.

VTNZ Glen Innes and Parnell have always adjusted my lights for me... not sure what's going on there...

never had a rubber cover on my brake pedal since I went manual (cut the auto pedal in half as I havent got around to changing the pedal box yet), but they failed my next legacy on it being missing, I was puzzled (trying to use a clutch on a wet day with no rubber is far more challenging than using the brake, so I always put it on the clutch instead), go figure eh.

no fail unless leaking, take it through VTNZ, they tend to care only about the way its supposed to be (all my cars go through VTNZ with no issues)

the required list: - someone with a lot of experience working with subaru wiring, and in posession of the wiring diagrams for both cars (ReubenH may have adaptors available soon) - STi AFM (Orange Label) - STi Injectors (You have these) - air-fuel adjuster of some kind as you will run VERY lean otherwise. (and someone to tune it, I can supply a map for the jaycar one for a reasonable fee, not free sorry as it took me a few weeks of work) This conversion is for EXPERIENCED level tuners, not for newbies to get into, it will break your brain, and possibly your car.

See my previous post regarding the electrical incompatibilities, this WILL include plugs, due to the wire-count being different.

This is a facelifted V7 STi, the seats, cluster, and the rest of the interior are from a V7 (except the wheel) , the exterior is from a V8 , but it is a genuine STi, just a 'V7.5'

Beware of that, subaru cambelts are particularly succeptible to FOD, and valvemashing is possible on these early engines still...

put the injectors and whatnot back to standard first, given you used 440's I'd assume you have yellows then, these will NOT run with the standard ECU or AFM (or at least VERY badly), and adapting to suit the right ECU is no easy task. So basically, put it back to standard and see if it starts, if you are in auckland and want to see what's involved in converting to 440CC injectors, I can show you what I had to do.

Solid lifters dont need 'adjusting' as such, but they can need reshimming, as the cam and bucket/shim wear down over time, resulting in a constant ticking at all temps.

Oil pumps are $360+gst @ clubsub prices @ winger on last check. Things like seals I always use genuine as I've had trouble with aftermarkets failing after as little as 10,000km nope retail at wingers is $360 + gst and my work price is $260+gst. got the new seal in now, was definately tighter going in, actually had to tap it into place this time. bout to put radiator in now and run the engine up. All seals should be a press/mallet fit (using suitable tools), if theyre not then theyre definitely too loose...

Reuben's is a BG5C, totally different wiring to yours.

You will need the entire steering column, as they use a different clockwheel, otherwise you're going to be hornless, and therefore WOFless

its a 250T, you can bet it's the headgasket... Advice from a wrecker: replace the longblock with an EJ20E or EJ20D. they run with the stock ECU, and for a small amount less power you get a lot more reliability. We have done this and it works flawlessly.

one of my BC5s has that kinda ticking (ver2 Sti engine, hydraulic buckets), has not affected engine operation, but is mildly annoying...

That's not going to happen, the V5/6 use a HEI coilpack that uses no ignitor, and a 6-wire stepper type ICV rather than a 3-wire AC solenoid valve... You would need to heavily modify your body loom, and use the V5/6 ECU also. Also: 4-plug single turbo ECUs are completely incompatible with the stock BG5A TT wiring, the BG5A is a nightmare, good luck.

Oil pumps are $360+gst @ clubsub prices @ winger on last check. Things like seals I always use genuine as I've had trouble with aftermarkets failing after as little as 10,000km

Prettymuch the same way, if not better, that I did it, havent had any creaking problems really, but will be changing to alloy arms soon enough with their own bushes.

thrust bearing doesnt always create bearing noise, the engine in my S2 has 1.5-2mm crankshaft slop on the thrust axis, but no bearing noise nor other signs of failure.

I rewired as per the official wiring diagrams, a bit messy but it worked... and I got to ditch the TCU

Pin 18 is not a short, if you do you may set something on fire as I beleive it's a +12vIG wire, and the park switch is two wires, join them.

sounds to me like the bore on the oil pump is excessively worn and not holding onto the seal properly, either that or you have severe crankwalk (thrust bearing failure) and the crank is pushing the seal out...

all you need to do: Cut AT/MT select wire (I cannot remember which plug this is, but its pin 18 and is a Black/White-Stripe wire), leave enough to reattach if you cut the wrong wire. Short the 'park' switch in the centre console Wire up the reverse position on the old loom to the manual loom's reverse switch Optionally wire up the Neutral position switch (this does nothing on 4-plug manuals as far as I can see)