Wiretap
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Posts posted by Wiretap
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Thanks - I'm not talking about 'slamming' it, just reducing the wheel to fender gap an inch or so.
From reading a lot on LegacyGT.com, it seems the KYB equipped USDM GT's don't handle a lowered spring as well as the Bilstein equipped cars (JDM GTs and USDM spec B's).
A firmer shock is less likely to bottom out / wear out as fast with a lowered spring? I'm not sure, but it seemed to be the general concensus...
If I were you I'd be very wary of the stuff that people stateside talk about. There is an unbelievable amount of misinformation over there (for example, according to them the V3/4 2L Impreza bumper is only found on V4 STis, nothing else
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Looks like somebody made a booboo when manufacturing that plate.
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Thanks all, so it seems the verdict is its not ideal but not a killer - I may look at 3.0r's (seem to be a few well priced 6 speeds around) in that case unless a really good GTB pops up.
Is it true the Bilsteins work better with a lowered spring - I'm looking at a moderate drop progressive spring like H&R.
Had enough of my Jamex super lows on crappy stock Honda shocks, no fun...
Most people who buy Gen4s don't lower them as they're not quite cheap enough to reach 'that market segment' yet. However I wouldn't see why Bilsteins would be better than KYBs in terms of lowering, especially seeing as they are likely to have the same type of spring on them anyway (if maybe a slightly different rate)
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FWIW: This vehicle is in Subaru's system as being 52D so I'm not sure how 62D ended up on your tag plate.
And 406 is the silver used on all Imprezas from GC/GFxA through to GC/GFxE
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there are a few people online who can talk you through reflashing, if you are confident enough you can reflash it yourself. there are tune maps available online too...
it can be done very inexpensively.....but it is by no means a dyno tune.
The 'reflash' I'm referring to in this case is re-flashing with an appropriately tuned (dyno or road, doesn't matter) map. Not a generic base map, those are base maps for a reason, they're what you base your tune on, certainly not a finished product and it is not safe to consider them as such.
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Any ideas on the cost to remap for 95?
Not dying to spend a grand on a performance tune, just to safely run 95 and not lose too much power...
It will, unfortunately, cost about the same as a 'performance tune' as you don't pay per kilowatt of output.
You can run 95 safely in the 3.0R that's for certain but I'm not 100% on the GT as there have been mixed results.
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personally i like the look of that HKS setup
but im a HKS man lol love itbut why did you want to change it??
running no maf will be like a link - so yea a tune will be needed when ever you do anything - where as with maf - if its within the map its ok (to a degree)
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Want to change it cause the HKS set up is fail, Sucks in to much warm engine air so really the setup is pointless id be better off having a standard box then the HKS set up. But I don't have a standard airbox and had some free time at work so i thought id pipe it down to behind the fog light cover to keep the filter out of the warm engine air and getting the nice cool outside air straight onto it.
I use the car for weekend use, track days and drags, the way ive got the suspension set up its to much to drive it everyday.
What black thing to the left of the mushroom? If your talking about the black pipe sticking out the hole, that's the air intake silencer I removed that so i had room to put the new pipe in.
My personal preference is: Standard airbox, Zero Sports intake pipe, Ducting from airbox to guard. Sure its not as pretty as these aftermarket solutions but it is guaranteed reliable.
If you need any bits give the guys at Strong For Subaru a call and they'll be able to sort you out with what you need (Including the ZS pipe at the moment too
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Thanks guys - 20% drop in power, sheesh!
So octane rating is related to compression? I have a 2.0 Vtec currently which runs 11.0:1 compression and dosnt seem to mind 95 (it's a torqueless wonder though)
You need a high quality fuel to reach 'mean best torque' on a high compression engine. Your honda is distributed ignition so in reality it's going to have 'safe' timing which is going to be nowhere near MBT.
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I have a 04 GTB, I run 95 with no problems.I ran 98 and there was no difference(except to the wallet!).I did find that I got best fuel eco with caltex 95
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That's interesting, I would've thought 95 would give worse economy for sure.
95 will give about 16-20% less power (according to dyno sheets found online), which will mean a bit more foot pedal so I'd say 12-15% worse economy.
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Both will run 95 okay. Best to re-map both of them though, the 3.0R runs a 10.7:1 CR so really is intended for 98 too.
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where do you get it from Gazzy?
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um i think like commercial aircon/airducting guys use it?? i will get a pic at lunch time for yis
i am going to have to charge yis for the R&D that gone into this system LOL
It's available from placemakers, etc. Aluminium tape. Its a bit of a pig to work with and once it sticks to itself you'll never get it unstuck.
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You need to use the 6-speed shifter if you ever want to go backwards again.
Most of it will bolt up, however you will need for certain to use that driveshaft as they're incredibly short.
I believe you will also need to mount a stud for the bottom starter bolt as the 6-speed is for an 8-bolt block.
There may be other issues as I have not done this conversion myself, however for the most part The Lego Effect applies.
Note that if you use the rear 6-speed hubs you will need the Brembos to match as your standard calipers will not work.
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WRXONP']
[quote name='WRXONP said:
is the stock maf tube 3 inch ?
if the tube is same as stock - then the tune wouldnt need touching - if its different - either make the maf tubing the stock size - or you need a tune as a larger than stock tube WILL be running lean
i dont see how turbulence which is down a straight pipe - around a bend and down even further can effect the maf signal
K&N filers are crap anyway they coat the MAF wire with their oil
/quote]
The stock tube has a conical turbulator baffle which the HKS one also emulates, most custom piping won't have that. (MAF can be recalibrated with a good tune though)
Another point: Late model MAF sensors are Kármán Vortex type, no hot wire/plate. So technically they should be K&N safe.
seriously ? carbon vortex? like the older mitsi ones?
if this conical turbulator is as important as it seems - i would be changing that over pretty asap !
Similar however they output a voltage still not a frequency like the mitsi ones.
One can have the MAF re-scaled to work without adapting the baffle but it requires a tuner who knows about more than just Air/Fuel calculations and timing as calibrating the MAF is a fairly involved process.
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is the stock maf tube 3 inch ?
if the tube is same as stock - then the tune wouldnt need touching - if its different - either make the maf tubing the stock size - or you need a tune as a larger than stock tube WILL be running lean
i dont see how turbulence which is down a straight pipe - around a bend and down even further can effect the maf signal
K&N filers are crap anyway they coat the MAF wire with their oil
The stock tube has a conical turbulator baffle which the HKS one also emulates, most custom piping won't have that. (MAF can be recalibrated with a good tune though)
Another point: Late model MAF sensors are Kármán Vortex type, no hot wire/plate. So technically they should be K&N safe.
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yeah id definatly put the MAF back into the engine bay. seen what kind of trouble can be caused by getting water into 1
. if i was you id take a section outta your stainless pipe, just enough for MAF and a rubber connector either side. and then just put the stainless steel piece you cut out where you MAF is in pic 2 to keep filter in same position. but it definatly does seem wierd how it works fine with hks? i would guess it would have something to do with the turbulence though.
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The MAF is in the engine bay, its in pretty much the same place as the old one its just been rotated 90 degrees so it going in the side of the pipe rather then the top. Turbulence seems to be the only answer I can find at the moment. Really would rather use the K&N filter over the mushroom one but the mushrooms the only filter it seems to work with.
Even doing that check that the air/fuel ratios are healthy. Doesn't take much to mess with the MAF calibration to the point of danger, even when it 'feels ok'
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url=http://www.cambertire.com/?page_id=165]http://www.cambertire.com/?page_id=165[/url]
What is a Camber Tire?
A Camber Tire is a tire built with an outer sidewall that is slightly taller than the inside sidewall resulting in a continuing decreasing diameter across the tread surface as compensation for a negatively cambered alignment setting to the wheel. When mounted on a vehicle with independent negatively cambered suspension research indicates that the Camber Tire Technology is capable of delivering substantially Improved Handling with Improved rather than sacrificed Ride Quality, Improved Tread Wear, Decreased Tread Noise, Decrease incidence of Emergency Maneuver Roll-Over, and Improved Fuel Consumption with Reduced Emissions due to a Reduction in Rolling Resistance from eliminating the need for Toe-In, and optionally facilitating the use of narrower tires to attain comparable performance among other benefits. And perhaps more importantly from a pragmatic perspective, the camber tire does so with nothing additional added-to or modified-on the vehicle. Simply a new set of tires and an alignment including properly setting the suspension camber (inexpensive camber plates if necessary; OEM on many vehicles) and the many benefits are gained whether a new or old vehicle, SUV, passenger or sports car, diesel, regularly aspirated, turbo, supercharged, hybrid, electric, Ferrari, Porsche, Prius, Teslar or a 1974 VW Beetle!
That is unfortunately completely daft... The point of camber is to handle sidewall squish and body roll in a manner that keeps as much of the tyre as possible on the road. I can't see how that'd help that.
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mmmmm I think ill get the pipe back I copied and fit that one up and see what happens. I copied a pipe my mate had done for his verison 7 STI. The only difference between his pipe and mine is that mine is made out of stainless(his is aluminum) and my MAF sits 2mm lower then his. If its not the MAF what else you reckon it could be?
Worth noting that you should leave about 4 inches between the MAF and any big bends. Most of those intake relocation systems have the MAF in the centre of the straight section between the guard and under-manifold pipe. The pipe you copied may have had baffles and/or vanes in the curves to stop the flow distorting.
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but im a HKS man lol love it
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. if i was you id take a section outta your stainless pipe, just enough for MAF and a rubber connector either side. and then just put the stainless steel piece you cut out where you MAF is in pic 2 to keep filter in same position. -
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Air intake problem.... So lost.
in Engine Related
Posted
I can now see what your problem was. Your new MAF tube was too small! Yes, only 5mm smaller, but that really won't help. That and the turbulator/venturi baffle.