Wiretap
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Posts posted by Wiretap
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is it a version 2 wrx? they usually sit right on halfway, version 4 wrx's temp guage usually sit slighty lower then half when engines at running temp
Might be a faulty temp guage sensor , or speedo?
/quote]
It's a ver 2.
It's not a faulty temp gauge. Your cooling system is active when it shouldn't be. Your engine certainly hasn't magically stopped producing heat. The thermostat is the only device responsible for regulating when the cooling system activates. Take it out, make sure it is shut, then biff it in a pot of boiling water, it should open, then when you take it out, shut again.
If non-genuine thermostats have been used you can have these issues.
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Are you testing your thermostats before you fit them? This definitely sounds like a thermostat issue.
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are you sure? I dont think its a vacuum leak as its on the wrong side of the pistons, its only letting blow by vent.
its not ideal as he'll end up with fuel/oil vapour everywhere but it shouldn't cause any drama unless he's done something funny with the PCV i.e left a hole in the intake without plugging it
Depends how healthy the PCV is and whether it has the secondary intake breather (before the throttle body/turbo straight from the block) If that is present it is a pretty big vacuum leak. Take your oil cap off and go for a drive if you want to see what I mean.
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hate-evoz']
[quote name='hate-evoz said:
WASTE OF MONEY... $100 for wof recheck from VTNZ, then u gotta fix whatever the dudes find thats wrong, and trust me, VTNZ are picky as!!! i had a 4cm rip in the drivers seat with a little bit of foam stickin out LOL and they said I had to fix that, sew it up then I can get the wof. WTF hahahahah,
All could have been avoided if that cop just left you/us alone.
/quote]
Its not that, its that VTNZ are generally known for sticking to the guidelines and doing everything by the book. So when things that aren't up to scratch come along that another mechanic may choose to ignore or miss completely they generally pick them up.
Remember all they do is check vehicles, hence they know what they are looking for.
Nah... oobviously you havent delt with VTNZ before because I personally know from experience that there picky... Im not here to argue or prove a point because I dont care but just sayin FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE THAT VTNZ are a bunch of tools...
Ive been there with rooted tyres (cracks on side walls on all 4 tyres and the've passed me where as Ive been in another car with a 4cm rip in the fabric on the seat and they didnt pass me.
I go to VTNZ up here In Auckland where in my experience they have made alot of stuff ups
Most probrably the VTNZ you got to from where ever you are are more lenient.
Thats my opinion ,
Tree, Wrong, Barking, Up.
Which VTNZ are we talking about? I've worked with Kingsland, Parnell, Glen Innes, Rosedale and Sylvia Park. All have had satisfactory results aside from the odd issue with understanding the laws around headlights and other lighting.
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Hey Guys Ive finally got my 94 wrx back on the road. Ive double checked everything before going for a test drive..I took it out for its first drive when suddenly it stalls but it doesn't turn off i hold my foot on the gas and out of nowhere it kicks back again. It really annoys me lol Ive got told it was a airflow meter, I changed that and still same problem. Just wanted to check if anyone went through this. Another odd thing is that it wont do this if i lean on the gas a bit. help please haha..
Car has current mods:
3inch turbo back.
Equal length extractors.
Trust Pod Filter.
Walbro 500hp fuel pump.
Full A/C delete.
sti injectors
Bov
Removed rocker cover breathers. Replaced with simota filters
Just listed mods just incase it affects the car.
Fix this, your car is not speed-density, that is a vacuum leak, there's a reason they're plumbed back.
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Yea I wasn't going to. He doesn't sound legit at all.
/quote]
SO what are you concerned about?.....ANY work i carry out WILL be warranted.....Willing to use your bits.....SO only labour/knowledge charged at a reasonable rate.
I cannot get my head around peeps that doubt you without even seeing/meeting/viewing completed work/Talk to satisfied customers.
WHY????................OH.....because i'm not a mechanic?////? with a registered Business workshop?
(PULL YA HEAD IN A??)
There are a lot of LTD car businesses very happy to take ya cash for half pie work.
Engine work for me is a hobby....AND i only use the best bits/craftsmen/tuners to get the result required.
If ya want a quality job??? YOU will get it from soopersubaru..IF you are prepared to spend the monies required that is.
I will not be a part in half pie budget/cheaply achieved work....AND never have been.
If you won't back up your statements with statistics and fact, why would anyone want to support you? They're certainly not going to do it based on your mastery of the written word
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BD5_RS']
[quote name='Wiretap said:
It is in writing in the above two documents, they will hold up in court better than any hand written letter (Which he would be unlikely to get).
/quote]
If the term "further certification" read "re-certification" then yes, but it is slightly ambiguous as it is currently worded. What I'm getting at is that I wouldn't be relying on a FAQ taken from the website as your only clarification of a standard that has been through legal review etc.
You didn't actually read the documents linked did you? They're not FAQs, they are the documents that have been through legal review you've mentioned
Yes I did, and the standard says: "A modified vehicle is not required to be LVV certified, or further certified". Did you write the standard? Can you state, with absolute certainty, that "further certification" was intended to mean re certification through the same process? 'Cos I sure as hell can't. Hence I'd get LVVTA to clarify it first.
It may seem ambiguous to you, however to a lawyer/court words such as 'further' have very distinct, defined meanings with no ambiguity.
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It is in writing in the above two documents, they will hold up in court better than any hand written letter (Which he would be unlikely to get).
/quote]
If the term "further certification" read "re-certification" then yes, but it is slightly ambiguous as it is currently worded. What I'm getting at is that I wouldn't be relying on a FAQ taken from the website as your only clarification of a standard that has been through legal review etc.
You didn't actually read the documents linked did you? They're not FAQs, they are the documents that have been through legal review you've mentioned
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WASTE OF MONEY... $100 for wof recheck from VTNZ, then u gotta fix whatever the dudes find thats wrong, and trust me, VTNZ are picky as!!! i had a 4cm rip in the drivers seat with a little bit of foam stickin out LOL and they said I had to fix that, sew it up then I can get the wof. WTF hahahahah,
All could have been avoided if that cop just left you/us alone.
Please, stop now before you make yourself look like more of a fool. VTNZ are not 'picky as', in fact I've found some small stations to be much worse (apparently my wing was loose and my exhaust too loud, wing was stock, held on so well I couldn't get it off when I needed to, exhaust was 92dB. The VTNZ up the road, no issues).
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BD5_RS']
[quote name='BD5_RS said:
Covered in the the LVVTA FAQ (url]http://www.lvvta.org.nz/faq.html[/url]):
Can I modify a vehicle which already has already been LVV Certified?
Yes, but the vehicle will need to be re-inspected by an LVV Certifier who will issue a new LVV plate covering all the car's modifications. Modifications that fall within the Certification Thresholds do not need re-certification.
Which seems to tell me that the cop can go fornicate himself. Sue for damages.
Lololol... New Zealand doesn't have damages in the same way the US does. Damages are something he won't be getting (especially since he hasn't actually incurred any quantifiable direct loss as a result of this) Given I'm not a law student or lawyer I can't explain it terribly well but basically... yeah
Yeah I know... ;D But he has suffered financial loss due to an error made and there are judges who enjoy reining in over zealous enforcement. It's worthy of the Police Complaints Authority at least. I would get the LVVTA to put something in writing regarding these circumstances first though.
It is in writing in the above two documents, they will hold up in court better than any hand written letter (Which he would be unlikely to get).
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Covered in the the LVVTA FAQ (http://www.lvvta.org.nz/faq.html):
Can I modify a vehicle which already has already been LVV Certified?
Yes, but the vehicle will need to be re-inspected by an LVV Certifier who will issue a new LVV plate covering all the car's modifications. Modifications that fall within the Certification Thresholds do not need re-certification.
Which seems to tell me that the cop can go fornicate himself. Sue for damages.
Lololol... New Zealand doesn't have damages in the same way the US does. Damages are something he won't be getting (especially since he hasn't actually incurred any quantifiable direct loss as a result of this) Given I'm not a law student or lawyer I can't explain it terribly well but basically... yeah
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"A modified vehicle is not required to be LVV certified, or further certified,"
I take this to read that if the vehicle has got a cert it doesnt need a recert for anything under the threshhold
Interesting. While in conflict with existing information I would tend to agree with this, given it is the official document.
For those wanting reference: http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/lvv_code/LVV_code.pdf page 10, heading of clause 2.3(3)
In that case, write in and have fun, looks like the cop didn't know what he was doing.
I'd also recommend carrying a copy of the current LVV Threshold Schedule and LVV Code around with you, however be aware that if you wave this in someone's face you best have nothing not-quite-legit because it will strengthen their resolve to find it
My only concern are a couple of items from the LVV Threshold Schedule (http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf)
- are a known and reputable brand non-OE item; and
- would be considered an appropriate fitment for the vehicle type by the wheel manufacturer
These are both EXTREMELY vague and subjective and while brands like Rays, Enkei etc would definitely be seen by the courts as 'reputable brands', Something like 'Advanti' being a smaller brand may have that called into question.
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Incorrect. If any item marked on your cert plate has been modified since certification to differ from that plate, you must update your cert. If you had read the thresholds and legislation surrounding certification you would know this.
/quote]
Here you go - Ill save you the trouble of apologizing. I did read it.
Here is the clause from the LVV code. Perhaps I missed something?
2.3(3) A modified vehicle is not required to be LVV certified, or further certified, in order to
be operated on the road, if:
(a) the modifications could not affect continued compliance with any applicable
safety‐related legal requirements prescribed by New Zealand land transport
legislation of any components or systems within the vehicle when
manufactured or previously modified; or
(b) the modifications are listed within the LVVTA LVV Modification Threshold
Schedule; or
© the modified vehicle is authorised by an LVV Authority Card, for a specific
purpose listed in Annex 5, and the owner can present such authorisation that
approves each modification that is subject to an applicable safety‐related
legal requirement prescribed by New Zealand land transport legislation, in
the form of a valid LVV Authority Card held in the name of that owner.
If the wheels do fit the modification threshold then it doesnt need to be recerted.
You are absolutely correct, provided the vehicle does not already have a certification. I have been unable to find the document I originally got this information from in my quick search now.
The LVV Modification Thresholds, however, are for vehicles that do not yet have a certification. If the item is stipulated to never require a certification it will not be on your plate. If it is on the certification plate, this is, essentially law. If your vehicle differs in any way from that listed on the certification plate, the certification becomes invalid.
It is unfortunate that they chose to list rim size on the plate as I don't believe it is going to be relevant in the vast majority of cases. However, I don't make the law and unfortunately I can't change that.
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Ninja 8)']
Yeah had a talk to the guys at work and apparently you are allowed to change the circumference or something by no more then 5% of factory equipment.
Im going to ring up a cert guy when im back at work and ask him a few questions. As for recerting with the same guy...vehicle came from the south island so thats not happening anytime soon
The vehicle is a GF8 and yes factory wheels are 16s. I still find it totally bullsh!t though. And no i wasnt doing anything stupid. Reason for him pulling me up was vehicle "looked" too low from the rear! Even breath tested me and i passed with flying colours ;D
In my opinion this is a grey patch!! I think the officer prob didnt get any happy time with his partner
The circumference deal is with regards to tyres. Wheel diameter is unregulated normally. However, if you have a wheel size marked on your cert plate (And you will) you have to stick to it or get your cert adjusted. They are considering reviewing this because it's a nuisance. However, at this time, while the cop might have been being unprofessional he is within the scope of his job.
[quote name='Carbon said:
You need to cert when:
"Wheel and tyre changes (non-OEM items), e.g. wheels wider than the bodywork, or with spacers or a different offset to the OEM design. Tyres with more than 5% greater rolling circumference than the OEM tyres."
url]http://www.lvvta.org.nz/index.html[/url]
The fact that you have a cert for other items shouldnt impact on other legal changes that dont require a cert.
Obviously you cant put lower profile tyre / wheel combos that would impact on the existing cert causing the car to be lower to the ground. The measurement however is from the wheel center to the guard (which shouldnt change)
Incorrect. If any item marked on your cert plate has been modified since certification to differ from that plate, you must update your cert. If you had read the thresholds and legislation surrounding certification you would know this.
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funkytown']
he sold his v7 wagon a while back and has a GC or GF now.
this.
[quote name='Ninja 8) said:
So now back up the ladder again and im back to a GF8 but WHITE!! Been married to her husband the BEB and i am just about to divorce them
img]http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg812/scaled.php?server=812&filename=img0310kq.jpg&res=medium[/img]
If your cert plate says 'OE Fitment' and you have Advantis, you're probably gonna be SOL. I'd still suggest you write in, describing what happened and the way the officer interacted with you. I'm not normally in support of this sort of thing but unless you were being a complete knob-jockey towards the cop (or on the road, in that case just shut up and pay the fine) I'd have to say it was probably unjustified.
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Did ya have to go G4 since the standard ECU can be reflashed? but as everyone said pinks will do for your said purpose right now
/quote]
Well a reflash is $1295 and I don't have a boost controller so adding a respectable EBC would have been at least an extra few hundred dollars... it wasn't really that much more to go to a Link and the big difference is that touch-up tunes on a Link are cheap, re-re-flashing isn't. Plus closed-loop boost control is meant to be the shiznits, I feel much more comfortable having boost controlled by something that at least knows all the other factors such as IAT, knock and ECT.
Your factory ECU runs closed loop boost control that is at least as sophisticated as the Link. touchup tunes on an open-source (who the sh!t is charging you ECUTek prices for something they don't actually have to pay for???) reflash should cost the same or less than a Link tune as the Link is pretty dumb when it comes to learning (and man you should see how easy it is to make their sh!tty software throw errors turning on features!).
In any case, sell me your factory ECU since you won't be needing it anymore (all ECUs are used for open-source research purposes and no profit is made from them)
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Sounds like a load of cr*p to me...
Plus not all subarus come on 16s do they? so what would be the case if you had fitted 17 inch sti wheels for example?
Probably an unfortunate case of right place, right time, wrong cop...
/quote]
Yeah i know!! i told him how many freaking cars do you see on the road that have aftermarket rims! and just because i have a cert and it doesnt state that i have 17" rims that makes me illegal!
All i want is some good proof to avoid me having to go through all the process of re check of cert (more $) and a freaking $100 WOF from VTNZ to get the cert off and my time and effort!
If your cert says 16s, you have to stick with 16s. If it doesn't specify then you're in the clear. I'm sure there's more to the story than this, most cops aren't like this but unfortunately I do know at least one who genuinely is.
There will be a proceedure to contest this, but it will not be free, and you should take legal advice first to ensure you're not chasing rainbows
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Thanks for the replies so far guys. I've chipped my ECU and want to run 18psi and need to know if this is too much for the MAP sensor.
It's currently running 16 psi with the chip and I haven't noticed any spiking whereas it was spiking HEAPS before I chipped it. It would spike up to about 16 and drop back down to 10. Now it hits 16, stays there until about mid 5000's and slowly drops back down to 13 before red line.
Whether it's safe to run or not is not dependant on the MAP sensor but the tune. If you're going to run 18psi, get a wideband O2 sensor check and also check for knock (not with your ears, with a knock sensor and headphones)
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With that pump if you have an adjustable FPR you could just wind the fuel pressure up for enough head room.
Ive got a mate running a v7 sti and injectors ran out at 238kw at the wheels on STM dyno so, which should be about the limit of you vf34, so an extra 10-15 psi base pressure should make sure the turbo max's out before the injectors
This will also increase injector latency which will have to be taken into account (tuning latency is a friggen pig)
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Pinks are 565cc, so are decently sized, I don't anticipate you running out of fuelling before your turbo well and truly leaves its peak efficiency, as everyone else is saying
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Sorry logic applies for cars running link and similar.
?Does the factory ecu cut when the sensor limit is reached or what happens
The factory ECU has a table that looks kinda like this:
(in this case a modified one taken from my B4's ROM)Which it uses to determine at what MAP level it should cut fuel to the engine. It does not do so when it reaches the limit of the sensor (thank god)
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Will a v2 wrx sti engine fit in a v4 sti?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Fit, yes. well... It'll bolt in, electrically it is completely different and it also flows about 20% less so you'll be markedly down on power. You will need to swap it to V3/V4 inlet manifold.