Wiretap
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Posts posted by Wiretap
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All the early ones are 2.5bar MAP sensors. STis (and foresters) use 3.0 or 3.5bar I can't recall exactly.
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With intermittent faults it's always a pain I'm afraid, one can't 'test for failure' on something that only fails sometimes
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If your radio and dash are powering down the problem is electrical, not mechanical. You can stop worrying about any engine sensors and I'd suspect your alternator.
As the radio and dash are not on the main relay I'd be also inspecting the barrel switch on the back of the ignition (is independantly removable/replacable) for wear.
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My car runs 2.5'' turbo back into 3'' tail section with hi-flow cats. Runs 15psi rock solid,no spikes. Around town fuel consumption is pretty bad but open road is pretty good, I did Wellington to Hamilton with just under 1/3 tank left. 98 octane helps with consumption.
In reality one should never run anything BUT 98 in these fussy things. 100 octane may be a myth, but the requirement for 98 in the B4 and STi isn't.
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So the standard Wrx didn't get the Ariel in the rear left panel??
EDIT: Nope.
upto V1 ALL wagons receive auto-retracting antennas mounted in the LR guard. After this they receive whip antennas.
upto V2 ALL 2.0 Sedans EXCEPT WRX, WRX-RA and STi-RA receive auto-retracting antennas mounted in the LR guard.
upto V2 Many 1.5,1.6 and 1.8 sedans and wagons receive pull-up pillar antennas.
V3-on ALL sedans EXCEPT WRX-RA and STi-RA recieve auto-retracting antennas mounted in the LR guard.
V3-on ALL wagons receive a roof-mounted whip antenna
*all information here is drawn from this thread and personal experience
EDIT: Trawled trademe and it turns out that the v2 WRX is weird and doesn't have it. Bizarre.
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My personal impression of Subaru NAs is that they're not too shabby. Okay so maybe I'm a bit biased (Own a 2.0 SOHC Impreza that now has an EZ30R in it) but I look at it this way.
1998 Subaru EJ20E, SOHC: 100kW.
2010 Volkswagen Golf GTi: 122kW.
Nissan VQ30DE: 170kW
Subaru EZ30R: 184kW
(both stock)
One of those is a DOHC turbo
The other thing is, power can only help you so much, in a straight line sure, it's great... but corners are a great leveller.
If you wanna make an EJ25 awsome I say go for it and let's see how it turns out. You could probably benefit from AVCS though.
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It's a 3 plug, which seems to be different to anything else? yea seems to be working out where the wires all go is the only option atm. And doing it because it's high compression and want to see what a non turb suby can do with a decent tune coz the standard motors and tunes are pretty lazy compared to other non turbo brands
Yup, you are going to have to hunt. There are unfortunately two types of 3-plug. That used by the STi and that used by NAs before 1996. The latter shares its pinning with absolutely nothing.
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yep - thats what i thought even the wrx and sti v2+v3 had - on the front pillar
but wanting to know if any v2 came with ariel on rear left panel near boot (as i believe they only started that in the v4+ era)
V3 non-RA has it on the LR guard. Pretty sure a fair few earlier ones do. the GF8 antenna moved from the guard to the roof in V3-on
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Don't use an EBC on TTs, they get confused and you end up with massive boost spikes as the secondary comes in, it'll eventually pop...
Rev A/B/C are mostly the same, RevD is the facelift with the newer headlights and the smarter ECU (blackout cluster, clear side indicators, etc)
The high fuel consumption was as a result of having a different exhaust (dealer fitted in japan
, it'd had these issues a long time) messing with the air metering (don't ask, complicated) and yes also the overboosting.They run a 64L tank, I've seen around 350L from a tank but I haven't done any long distance drivign since swapping ECUs, I'm getting around 11.2l/100km now around town by my calculations.
If fuel economy is a concern, don't buy a TT
/quote]
Oh o.k makes sense again,
So the Rev D is the best but not too much difference between them huh?
Well that's good to know. Fitting up a diff back exhaust system just to get the car sounding better doesn't affect boost or fuel issues?
Oh sweet as, it's not too much of a concern. Seems fairly similar fuel consumption to the car I'm using now. 300km+ haha plus the car is much newer which should mean its more efficient. It sounds like its worth paying the extra comfort and power on tap.
Anyone running 240km+ in their ej20 and still running strong?
My exhaust system is only diff-back, and that's the troubles it caused, any more and it'll be much worse.
I know of a BF5 that is running mint on its original engine at well over 300,000km by now.
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Oh ok. Should have assumed it would have been over boosting issues. Will using a electronic boost controller fix this?
So are the later Rev C/Rev D models that much better than the Rev B model?
Wont be looking to get it re-tuned in the time I anticipate owning it
The fuel consumption is my biggest hold back about this car, but is it that bad?
I'm using the car mainly for long journeys and short runs around town.
Probably 100km a week on general driving and 250km long trips every couple of weeks.
What sort of km do these get off a tank? and how big are the tanks?
Wont be heavy on the foot unless I need to, up hill or overtaking/merging
Don't use an EBC on TTs, they get confused and you end up with massive boost spikes as the secondary comes in, it'll eventually pop...
Rev A/B/C are mostly the same, RevD is the facelift with the newer headlights and the smarter ECU (blackout cluster, clear side indicators, etc)
The high fuel consumption was as a result of having a different exhaust (dealer fitted in japan
, it'd had these issues a long time) messing with the air metering (don't ask, complicated) and yes also the overboosting.They run a 64L tank, I've seen around 350L from a tank but I haven't done any long distance drivign since swapping ECUs, I'm getting around 11.2l/100km now around town by my calculations.
If fuel economy is a concern, don't buy a TT
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That's for thick-key cars.
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The rocker cover gaskets with age harden and start leaking straight into the exhaust manifold. Bitch of job to replace as well. Easy to tell if it is leaking drive the car and get it hit u will smell the oil burning. As for the fuel consumption I would say its ok depending on how u drive it. Open road I get 10l/100km around town 12.5l/100km
I used to get between 15l/100km open road and 19l/100km around town
No wonder the dealers were so keen to be rid of it. -
VADZTER']
[quote name='Wiretap said:
It won't fit. They use a different keyway around the locking pin.
/quote]
will a version 7 sti door locks and ignition barrel fit a BC5?
Ignition barrel: Nope, won't fit anything that doesn't already use a thick key.
Door Locks: no idea but I'm going to go with no.
where can i get a blank sti key like this one?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/accessories/auction-477285251.htm
just really like the key LOL
Become a DOBC member, we have access to them for members only
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It won't fit. They use a different keyway around the locking pin.
/quote]
will a version 7 sti door locks and ignition barrel fit a BC5?
Ignition barrel: Nope, won't fit anything that doesn't already use a thick key.
Door Locks: no idea but I'm going to go with no.
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Awesome, exactly the kind of info I'm after.
What is the difference between Rev C, Rev D etc..
Does this have to do with the year of the car and the engine?
I'm slowly building a list of things that should be checked or replaced if I get one:
Check:
O2 sensor
knock sensor
correct boost pressure for both primary and secondary turbo
Clean oil pick up and turbo feed and return lines
Clean air filter out
Oils (Engine, Box, Diffs)
Are there any seals or anything that tend to let go after a while?
Do they run average or damage the engine/turbos with turbos back exhaust?
Not really looking for something that's fast, just after something that's better than your average daily. I'm fairly sure the b4 is going to be this car.
Sorry for the amount of questions. Will help to know what I'm getting myself into. haha
Exhaust mods cause overboosting and/or detonation issues (mine was boosting 1.3-1.4bar until the ECU was swapped to a Prova tuned one, supposed to run 1.0bar)
Revision is the model of the car, it's easier than referring to them by year. BE5A = RevA, 1998-1999; BE5B = RevB, 1999-2000, etc... Check the Applied Model Code under the hood for these, you're only interested in the first four digits.
These things are fuel-hungry to say the least, are you concerned about gas mileage, if so I'd suggest you might want to look at the RS30 instead.
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VADZTER']
[quote name='pl0x said:
as for part numbers, as you know I got the wrong one from wingers.
Need to talk to someone onto it like boostin to get correct numbers
/quote]
The two you gave me will work for the replaceable bushes by the looks. My confusion comes from the pin you cannot remove ( which ill grind off as we spoke about ) and the bushes in there.
Are they smaller as per the legacy picture or larger as per the two you gave me.
From memory all four are the same, and you need to use another of the same bolts used to attach the shifter lever to it to replace the pin. Make sure you use a locking (aka friction) nut or it'll come undone by itself... not a mistake I'll ever make twice.
been there done that...
here a TING driving along, NEK MINNIT shifter has detatched itself lolI had to drive 20km in 1st gear after that happened... at least it was 1st...
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The trick I use with the roll-pins (and my god they're a pain in the arse, can take between upto 2 hours to remove depending how long they've been stuck in there.) is that I replace them by welding a suspension top nut (12mm head) to the upper side of where the pin slots in, that way I can just put a bolt in and tighten it down with no threat of it coming out.
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It won't fit. They use a different keyway around the locking pin.
, it'd had these issues a long time) messing with the air metering (don't ask, complicated) and yes also the overboosting.
here a TING driving along, NEK MINNIT shifter has detatched itself lol-
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Map sensor rating?
in Electrical
Posted
This would make perfect sense except for the fact Subaru MAP sensors are only used for boost control and cut. Subaru ECUs are MAF driven so you have more to worry about exceeding the limits of your MAF sensor (very, very unlikely)