suubyduuby

Yeah, want to make sure it's not compressor surge. Nasty for the turbo!

Great car! Got my 1999 Leggy GT about 6 months ago and its a great daily driver and weekend car. Love the versatility of a wagon - great for snowboards, bikes, moving furniture etc If you're after a real drivers car, go for a manual. You get another 16kW (206kW total) or so over the 190kW auto version and better resale value as well. Only downside of the manual is that you can sometimes change into what is termed the VOD zone which is a bit like a gap between the two turbos. However once you get used to the car and where to shift, this is really a non issue. Auto versions don't feel the VOD as much (have driven both). Things to look out for: - If its done over 100km or just before 100kms, make sure it has had its cambelt/tensioners/idlers done and check to make sure the waterpump isn't leaking. If these haven't been done, try to negotiate with the dealer to have these as part of the sale as a good job afterwards will set you back about $1200 for the whole lot (incl cambelt/waterpump + accessories). - Rocker cover gasket seals. A common problem is that they tend to leak and need to be replaced. Symptons is oil drips under the car and a really hot smell/smoke coming from either side of the engine due to oil burning up on the exhaust. About a $300-400 job to get done. - Service history. Make sure its got one! Mine had service stickers from Subaru in Japan, so gave me confidence it was a good 'un. Look for regular oil/filter changes preferably every 5,000kms or at least every 10,000kms. - Signs that it has been thrashed. Earth leads, big bore exhuast, aftermarket stuff -- sometimes can indicate that the car has had a hard previous life in the hands of some Jap boy racer tearing up and down the streets of Tokyo. However not always - use disgression. Look at the service history, interior condition, general condition of the car and make a call. - CD Player. If its got a McKintosh sound system, make sure everything is fully functional and that the CD player is working. Can cost $$$ to fix otherwise! - Gearbox crunching and clutch. Check for crunching/signs of worn syncros. Make sure clutch is in good nick. Pop her in 2nd, handbrake on and slowly release clutch - should stall. If it starts to slip, then it'll be needing a new clutch. Negotiate that with the dealer if necessary, All the best with finding a good one. Once you do, you'll never look back.

Can you recommend a particular Suuby dealer in Auckland to do it? Winger Greenlane any good?

000 RB2 - Looks like the last 6 digits of the ECU model code. Could be from a 89-93 Subary Legacy RS-R? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=94158344

Never had any issue with this on either a B4 or GT wagon. Have you checked the troubleshooting guide in the Subaru Service Manual for the BE5 RSK?

True words. Typically get 400-450kms around town, up and down the motorway and with a wee bit of right-footedness inbetween.

Just to post further- a simple test would be to identify and remove the fan relays and bench test them. I would imagine they have 12V coils, so you should be able to test by hooking up the coil to 12V and make sure that the coil latches and then unlatches when power is removed.

Faulty temp sensor? Are you getting a check engine light? If not, probably not a sensor issue. Stuck relays could also be an issue. I would imagine they are mechanical and not solid-state. Have seen a lot of this at work - relays latching and not turning off. Creates all kinds of wonders! ;D

Try replacing the LED first. You can source ultra-bright blues/whites/reds (whatever you're after) from Jaycar Electronics. If its too bright, current limit it with a resistor. I would imagine the LED is not driven straight off the microprocessor inside the AVS alarm unit, but rather switched through a transistor. Can't say for sure (have never opened an AVS box up before), but if this is the case you may need to have this part replaced. That's probably an AVS return to manufacturer job I would imagine - as touching the internals would most likely void your warranty. But try the striaght LED replace first off - that might hopefully do the trick.

Oh was just going to start a thread for this as well. ??? Don't forget the engine rebuild vid as well by Crawford Performance... A 2.65L stroker? Hmm, now that sounds good. ;D

My 2c ;D. Just bought some T1Rs for my BH leggy, and all I can say is they are awesome. Have bought two fronts and will get the rears in the next week or so (can't afford to buy them all at once). Going round a roundabout in the wet today, the front was gripping with the new T1Rs and my old Toyos on the back were letting go...back of the car was starting to get twitchy like a Silivia 8) : +1 for the T1Rs.

Yeah - so your (I'm assuming BH5) C pinks in the mid-range? What does it sound like? How would you describe - just curious to see if its the same thing she's experiencing in her BE5C. Looked at the model plate and its an EJ206DXCBE, while the model is BE5C48T.

Hmm yeah true words. If she does get it done, will post back with the results. How do you find your '01 BH5 wagon is with the VOD?

Same for me - my BH5A no worries. Always run on 98 and no worries ever with pinking...But yeah, the VOD is worst on mine than on the RSK. I think post 2001(ish) Subaru fiddled with compression ratios/turbos and they run a different ECU as well (only later models are tunable with ECUtek etc)

Have a look at the specs of the US-domestic market engines. From memory due to the similiar nature of US gas (low octane 89-91), Subaru had to export engines that would run on the lower octane fuel.

Just further...Suppose you would call it 'mid-range' pinging more than anything else. Not as noticeable post 4,000 RPM but noticeable from about 2,500 - 4,000 RPM. Another suggestion was possibly primary turbo heatshield rattling? Don't see how though?!?

Perfect Power Ltd 123 Kerrs Rd Manukau I have dealt with Jack (the owner) and he's always provided excellent service and a great job. He also has a 4-wheel dyno as well ;D (And does dyno tuning)

Hmm, just something I found the other day. Haven't verified it yet though, but looks promising!?!?! Introduction If you have just reset your ECU or reflashed it with a new map you may know that this also resets your ECU learning data. Below is a little trick I found on a Subaru forum that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU’s ignition timing learning process. This procedure is commonly known as the Vishnu Reset after the company, Vishnu Performance, that wrote this on a Subaru forum. Background There is something called Ignition Advance Multiplier (IAM). It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It’s represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms). The “happier” (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset or ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here’s a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds …. Fast learning procedure (Newage WRX) With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don’t go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the accelerator pedal down slightly so boost stays around 2–4psi (~0.2 bar). You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2–5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can’t see so you’ll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reset or reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10–20 BHP. Fast learning procedure (Newage STi) The procedure is slightly different for STi’s. First you have to reset the ECU. Then let the car idle until it is fully warmed up in closed loop fuel control. Then hold approx 4–5psi (0.3 bar) of boost at 3500rpm for 3–4 seconds. Again left-foot braking will help you maintain a constant speed. This usually results in a increase of 20 BHP. This is something that you would probably see eventually over the course of a few days of driving. But this takes a few seconds and is great for those who are dyno testing/tuning or are just really impatient :-) Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful! So how does this work? There is only one ignition timing table and one knock correction table. The load axis for the fuel, ignition and knock correction tables is MAF, not MAP. The ignition timing map is very conservative and relies on anywhere from 0–12 degrees of additional advance which is provided by the active knock correction system. The knock correction tables resembles the ignition timing table with respect to having MAF and RPM as its X and Y axis. However, in its cells is maximum knock correction authority, not absolute base timing value. At low loads (off boost), knock correction authority is 0, meaning that no additional advance is allowed to be added upon the base ignition table values. Under boost (and especially around 5000rpm, knock correction reaches its maximum authority range (or around 10–12 degrees depending on ECU type). I can only presume that the engine calibrators at FHI determined this RPM range to be particularly “trouble-prone”, requiring the “go ahead” from the knock sensor to add in the full amount of timing (learning to advance timing instead of simply assuming that is okay to do so). Naturally, the underlying timing values in the ignition timing tables are unusually low at this rpm/load range. Knock correction authorty range tapers off as RPM and Load goes up (above 5500rpm). I suspect this is because knock sensors tend to become inaccurate at higher engine speeds (unable to differenentiate between actual knock and normal engine noise). The above fast learning procedure simply keeps the engine operating in a rpm/load zone where base timing is very conservative and knock correction authority range is relatively large. When the engine assumes this rpm/load, the active knock correction system readily adds in maximum positive authority range due to an absense of knock and (I suspect, engine noise). I could make this special reset not work by simply advancing base timing too aggressively in his rpm/load area. This would induce knock prematurely and never all the ECU to add in the allowable knock correction. Needless to say, I keep these rpm/load zones purposely detuned to facilitate this accelerated learning technique. Information source - NASIOC, author - Vishnu Performance http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECUFastLearningTrick

Was just looking over the previous thread on Rev D BE5 pinking. Great info about the timing issue in the BE5 Rev D's. Another member of my family has a 2001 RSK B4 (BE5C Tiptronic) and it pings like crazy when given a bit of stick. Always run on 98 as well. Its her daily driver and rarely gets the pedal to the metal, so it never does it while she's driving. But whenever I hop in and put my foot down, can hear it pinging quite noticeabley. The closest sound I can describe it as is a very soft 'rattling' sound - kind of muted...but the speed increases and decreases with engine RPM (proportional). I have noticed as well (compared to my 99 BH5), it feels ultra-responsive even off boost. Would seem to incidicate the timing is more advanced - as throttle response is VERY sharp and edgy. Cambelt jumped a tooth? (Or advanced when installed in Japan?) Cam-angle sensor? A/F ratio? Oh yeah, I've also noticed that her BE5C runs quite a bit hotter than my BH5's engine. The crazy thing is - she took it into SubLab for servicing and they picked up the pinging issue. But when asked how to resolve it - they didn't know... The car recently had its rocker cover seals done as well - only at 70,000kms. Could the extra timing be putting more pressure on them causing them to give up earlier? My BH5 over 100k and still no oil leaks....

Looks like the PCB manufacturer didn't do a great job in making those PCBs. Nasty dry joints on those SMD resistors. Hard to see in the photos, but can't see if the LCD has an external backlight or not. If it does, would be a cool mod to remove it and replace with something like a UV blue backlight! Or, you could remove the electronics and put a wind-up analog clock in there. : ;D

Paid 'bout 1200...that was cambelt, waterpump, idlers, tensioners, hydraulic tensioner...also had all the accessory belts done at the same time and seals checked as well....

The generic OBDII scan tools only read std OBDII fault codes and match them to a fault description in the scanner's database (dependent of model/manufacturer). To change timing, you'll need to be able to write new maps/configuration to the factory. Dunno much about the Subaru Select monitor, but guessing it has the ability to write to the ECU as well as perform std OBD stuff. In theory you could do it all yourself with the right software and something like OpenECU, but there's a fair bit of skill and knowledge required before you can go fiddling with the ECU maps as raw tables.

I believe CS member Keltik had a nice rumbly exhaust for sale some time ago...can't remember if it was for a b4 or gt wagon.... Probably would check out trademe?

Where did you get up to in the CEL code procedure? Once you've found the black ECU connectors and connected them together, turn on the ignition and watch as the CHECK ENGLINE LIGHT on the dash will flash out the fault code. Count the flashes and post back here. P.S Don't forget to unplug the BLACK connectors when you're done!

Dunno exactly depends on what you find from the CEL code, but could also be a fuel issue...had the same prob on a car o'mine some time ago and it was the fuel pump starving the injectors of enough juice... But as Arsenal pointed out, check the CEL and then go from there..... As regards the whistling under boost, could be a leak of some sort. Check all your vacuum/boost lines and make sure all the hose clamps are done up well....also, I believe the factory BOVs can also get a bit leaky as well...I'm sure someone on here may be able to shed more light on this.