EJ20T

the lighting and actual power to the lighter element are differnt curcuits, check its plugged in and that the fuse isnt blowen, likely cheaper and easyer than the solar panel, and works at night too

done!

Nah its NZ new, a Spec R with dark colored wheels

umm shouldnt he mean - twin scroll, not Twin turbo...? shows how clued up he is

And you have missed the point by about a nautical mile

BRZ sounds fine to me, like most cars today that have code names, Mazdas 2,3,6 citroen C3, DS3, C4, mitsi ASX, etc

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=405164595&permanent=0 this guys trying to pass this as a spec c, i politely informed him otherwise but he told me i dont know shit, so if anyone cares or is bored please leave comments on his auction, id hate for someone to spend 40k thinking that the car is something its not. The car is clearly a NZ new STI spec R

Welcome and best of luck with urn pwrc season u have had the best start possible. hows urn efforts with sponsorship going? surely someone had jumped on the bandwagon by now?

As a mechanic that does inspections like this that is terrible, you should only ever state fact and not personal oppinion, take it back and make the dickhead fix it

I thought it was for a decent daily driver, then people are talking about single turbos etc?????

Why would u get a rev C if you were to do light mods? the rev d has a reflashable ecu that can be tuned by open source, or u can pay for ecutek and go out to 190kw atw with a simple reflash

Yes D revs pink on anything less than 98, but the upside to having the 9:0/1 CR and longer gearing is that i can get 100km more out of a tank than my brothers BH5A.

Just buy my RSK and then with the price differance to a STI you can buy a track hack GC8!!!

the hubs will fit the brakes, why not pick up some wheels that just fit? alot easier in the long run

You could have a small air leak somewhere, are you sure its not a small missfire when the mixture leans out thats throwing the mixture out at the o2 sensor then feeding the ecu rubbish? as a test get the o2 hot, then hold the revs at around 2.5 steady, then check the o2 output in this situation, u should see a fairly rapid cycling between .2-.8 v if it goes out higher or lower u need to determain if the ecu is causing it or a slight missfire, and this is where a scanner can solve a problem in 10min vs hours of guessing

As a WOF inspector i can confirm this is correct!

These can be tuned thru open source, if you have a lap top buy a cable taxrix and then get someone reputable to tune it, im sick of seeing performance shops tucking people using free softwere!

In the scheme of things a alloy radiator has little effect on the over all look of your car, wheels on the other hand have a huge effect. If the stock one is fine and you want to dress up your engine why not consider some of the things out of japan like those radiator cover panels etc, they make things look better and serve some purpose

Why bother changing? its not like the stock item isnt up to the job

haha, if it only cycles twice in 10 seconds you have a problem

sure no one has driven it? seems very strange

For this problem you really need to plug it in to a scanner that reads data, someone with even mediocore skill should be able to pick whats going on from the data, the ecu can adjust the short term fuel trim by up to +/- 25%, if u have a bad o2 its likely the output will swing from close to 1v then suddenly drop to 0 making the ecu make its max adjustment and give you jerkyness in closed loop when it pulls 25% out and makes the mixture very lean.

yeah im quite interested to see how the STI versions come out

yes if you have no or limited experiance with brakes i wouldnt recommend doing your own master cyl rebuild. when doing any bleeding you havnt by any chance let the brake fluid run out? you may have to bleed the master cyl

confirms what ive seen on the few NZ new GTB/RSKs ive worked on