GC82GO

My mate got his car back, happy with the results from CDM he said he will be going back there, 255kw ATW 14psi boost, 25DE+T with a Chinese T3/T4 Turbo. Tune Cost him $692, 2 hours of Labour fixing things before tune, and 2 Hours of dyno time which was all that was needed.

I also got quoted from dtech $690 incl gst for 4hrs of dyno time.

My mate dropped his Nissan to CDM to be tuned nearly a month ago now. Car was running when it got dropped off.. Still hasn't got around to tuning it.. I called dtech, they will tune it the day you bring it in. Dtech have tuned more subaru as well and have a link electro employee working for them. But I've heard stories about both places.. I'm gonna take mine to dtech when it is ready.

Hi! Have a question someone here maybe able to answer. Do v7-9 sti's have the same oil cap thread and pitch? If so, is it the same as a gc8?... Do subarus use the same oil cap thread and pitch I guess is what I'm wanting to know..

So where was your leak coming from exacly?

agreed, I had a injector seal issue recently, 2 injectors had leaky seals, so leaky that my cylinder would fill up with fuel within minutes. Though the smoke coming from my exhaust was black, not white... I thought white smoke was water being turned into steam..

Supposedly I was pressurising the crankcase.. So hopefully my turbo seals are not screwed.

Update, deleted the pcv, idle is now better, vacume is normal now, I think I had suspected failed pcv, was stuck open.. Reading on another forum exact same symptoms.. Will compression test this weeknd. Car seems to be running a lot better with the pcv deleted.. No smoke on startup now either..

Its fresh but old... its done 7,xxx kms since being rebuilt, in 2008 when it got forged. I had a V2 WRX RA back in the day that I had this in, then I crashed it.. and got my black V3 WRX which I put it in, But never really drove it because it was deregistered, but it ran fine in that car, fine enough to snap 7 axels and blow 1 diff in RWD... and finally now I have it in my V3 STi RA which ive done most about half kms since rebuild in... It did sit around in a garage for about 3 years...then sat in my black WRX for a year or so..

Ok so I just finished pulling apart and putting back together the intake system on my car. I wanted to Diagnose where the oil is coming before I go to clean the ICV. I already know the IC has oil in it, but no oil is coming out of my breathers on the heads so it doesn't get that far.. Starting by looking at the intake, I removed the Airbox and intake pipe, with no oil in that, I then removed the hose clamp from the turbo to the intake pipe under the manifold, oil dripped out, I noticed the oil came into the intake from the PCV return that goes from the crankcase vent into the intake... I proceeded to remove the hose connecting from the Crankcase vent to the PCV on the Manifold, oil came out of there also... Im not sure what this means??

I've just read Markys thread, ill have to try cleaning my ICV indefinitely

Hi all, after putting my Forged V3 STi Motor into my V3 STi Type RA, I've been getting some weird Idle and Vacuum issues that I wasn't getting when it as in my V3 WRX, But in saying that, when it was in my V3 WRX, I had blanked off the ICV and was running a VF22 Turbo, Upon putting it into my STI RA I also hooked up the PCV back to the intake, anyways sometimes when I start my car the Boost gauge will sit on -10 when it would usually sit on -20... even after driving it will sit at -10 when idling, but most times when I do a hard pull, it will bring it back down to -20,.... its very erratic, there is no pattern to it doing it. Also my idle is blipping up and down between 1000 - 700 rpm.. takes a good 30 seconds or so till the revs settle at around 800 rpm.. does this sound like ICV to you guys? Also quite possibly I have a blown seal in my turbo, as when I take the Intercooler off there is quite a bit of Oil in it.. and then randomly sometimes when I start my car it will puff out some smoke for a split second then no more smoke. No smoke under boost.. No oil coming out of the breathers on the heads.. no smoke coming out of the oil cap when its off and running. Anyone in TGA wanna have a look at my car lol

Thankyou all for the replies, I went and measured my brembos, around 30mm thick, and around 60mm of pad contact area, those rotors I was gonna buy were for Non brembo 4 Pots, he sent me the specs of the 2 piece rotors he has, 24mm thick and 47mm of pad contact area..

Hi all im looking at getting some 2 piece rotors for my brembo upgrade ive just done to my RA, I found some 330mm 2 piece rotors, talked to the guy and he was saying they came off a GC8 with v3-6 Type Subaru 4pots, with adapters to fit.. These wont work with my brembo's aye? Contact area is different....right?? does anyone know. guess I could get the guy to measure the contact area on the rotors to confirm..

I have both, I really really! wanted to drift my V3, even put a FWD impreza steering rack in!...but yea, the Subaru is a awesome drift hack but it snaps axels to easily, Ive gone to R180 but still yet to go drifting in it and try my luck. My R32 on the other hand, doesn't break... and they get easy drift power from minimal $$

Cheers, Have you a Twin Plate clutch as well??... Its not as straight forward as I was imagining, makes me wary about installing the other HKS Twin Plate onto my other Forged Motor...

Hi all, I purchased 2x HKS Twin Plate Clutches for my GC8's, I've installed one into my V3 STi Type RA... Issues straight away, I had to fully bleed out the slave cylinder so I could push the Pin all the way in so it would fit back on as the release bearing sits further back on the twin plate pushing the fork back further, I ended up getting it all in, Bleed the clutch a bit but I think it needs more possibly as its soft and doesn't disengage the clutch. Has anyone had any experience installing a Twin plate clutch, ill be working on my car trying to resolve this issue after work 5pm. Thanks

Agreed, after installing my 27mm Adjustable Whiteline bar, killed most the understeer. Also highly recommend using some performance spec street tyres, Bridgestone RE002 are ok for the budget, at 170 fitted for a 215/45/17, decent price. Tony's Tyres Tauranga.

Hey all got these heads on one of my motors, just wanting to know some stuff about these after reading online that these heads are the best.. Why is this? was 96 the year where technology was good for engines and regulations on rally type cars weren't so tight?? Why is the newer STi heads "not as good"? Is there proof that Ver 3 STi heads are better than others? I would love to know, google just seems to just bring back people saying they are the ones to get and they have an aggressive profile, that's about all I can find which doesn't tell me much..

700, it's alright. That's bit more than I can afford, Cheers though.

How much is not cheap?

Hi all, currently trying to get my car all going and try and revin it. Problem. my r180 diff is blown.. My car is a V3 WRX and I put a r180 rear end setup in it, using diff/axels from v3 STi RA, and v7 STi rear hubs. Im wanting to know if a v7 STi diff will fit in my car, im taking it all V7+ STI have R180, or am I mistaken. Thanks

Looking at your photos makes me wanna take my motor out and clean It, nice motor build man...

I don\'t know if your issue was like mine recently...You could try adjusting the throw of the pedal into the master cylinder, I recently was having this issue where after countless times bleeding the clutch, it would only come half way back and I would have to pull the pedal manually back to normal position.. Checked pedal adjustment, turns out the nut was loose that keeps the adjusting bit in place and the rod going into the master cylinder wasn\'t going all the way in like it was factory.. Adjusted it and wallah... Working clutch.. I also do not have that spring. clutch is working fine..

Lol you must like Rugby and Mitsi Evo\'s