gtlegacy

this is the exact same symptoms my mate s204_gt-b had it had blow both sides but hardly used any water until it was boosted and wouldnt over heat when driven

we had a similar problem my mates bg5 gtb and sure enough we had a repco thermostat i think the brand was (tridon) and sometimes it opens and got stuck other times fine when we pulled out the spring init had hardly any pressure in it could push open with your thumb easily as we got genuine subaru one and problem gone also i have heard that the repco (tridon) brand isnt a good one to use in subaru maybe okay in others but when we returned it it seemed like they crapped out all of the time

New law coming in blah blah blah basically anyone can access your details via your rego unless you opt out at the NZTA web site https://transact.nzta.govt.nz/transactions/PersonalInfoAccess/entry.aspx Do it otherwise your personal info like address etc is available for all!! More info here http://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicle/registration-licensing/information.html

yea i saved the pdf on my computer s if they local guy wof guy says i cant have them booya!

yea i won them haha sweet it is a good deal thats gret info i allways thought it was only the ones withy the yellow tags that could be used and not needed to be certed thanks for the info KOOM

Sti part no 2655055000 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=289768155

may sound like a stupid question i have a vibration now after changing the way i plumbed my gauges up first off i have a 97 rsb and it had the sunglass holder in centre console and it didnt work so cut out the insides and put 2 autometer 2 1/16" gauges in and i put 2 90* fitting on the bottom after my other nylon lines split the only thing i changed is took the think hard covered matt lining out that sits over the tunnel just under the sunglass area (forward of gear shifter) could removing that small peice (50x100mm) make the noise from underneath come through that much ? i can only hear it cruising along at 3500-4000 rpm and slowing down in that range its really pissing me off LOL

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1015115 this looks like a simple and effective way of making a dccd controller im no sparky or even good with wires was just reading up and found this and thought someone could maybe tinker away with that idea

ok my mate has just put a new motor in his b4 and has got the same problem only it really squeeks and when the clutch is pressed it makes a weird scuffing noise as well and when released just a squeak what could be going on here ill lube the pushord on the slave cylinder im thinking maybe somehow the fork popped out when he put it together

haha but seriously is there naything i can do or am i at the limit of the turbos and they cant make any more oost at higher rpm

is there anyway to make it hold boost ? can you preload the wastegate? im guessing it wont make a difference as its blowing it open anyway am i right?

also that seems alittle wierd is there anything different about the vf13 and 14 ? they both have wastegates so essentially shouldnt it work? but it would have a good primary and not so good secondary stage as the larger turbo would be coming in first also what was your reason for changing the housings over because from how i see it the vf13 and vf 14 have different size wheels

hey guyz sorry to interupt but is this common when i get on the secondary my boost goes up and at about 6000rpm drops back about 5psi it does it when my boost set at 20(yes i know that high) drops to 15 and when it set at 15 drops to 10 is that not weird? or is my wastegate blowing open as i get higher up the rpm? how do i fix? lol

ya well that was kind of the whole idea of getting an oil cooler being ej20r just a little bit more protection

i run elf htx 115 in my rsb with 4pot 294mm rotors std size and bendix ultimates they feel mint and it never felt funny at all we use the elf htx 115 on our racecars (speedway) in supersaloons with 700-800hp motors that are on and off the brakes consistently lap after lap with no problems

ok sweet az just what i needed to know i should of done this before i bought it not after lol

ahahaha well basically all i need to know is is an oil cooler essential for a 1 or 2 a year Trackday car? otherwise if not i wont use it and keep it for something else

problem is i usually rape it cos im late hahaha

so its still good for track days? how much does the water temp affect the factory oil cooler? ie will the water soak up the heat if it starts to heat up the oil? i have a home made radiator top plate so the air goes straight into it not over the radiator and 1.1 cap to help

what oil temperature should the motor normally run at?

ok so is there really any point in having an oil cooler without a thermostat on a car used for trackdays? cos wont it just cool the oil to much in normal driving conditions ( to work and back) cos even if it put it in a spot where there isnt much flow then whats the point of having it?

sorry oh s... it does to damn it!!!

yea but he pressure tested it and fixed it

yea i just cant remember aye i shouldnt really run it without a thermostat type should i as it will cool the oil down to much from what i can see its a 17 row cooler aswell

how can you tell? i was initially thinking that i would just use my sandwich plate that i had allready as its allready fitted to the car lol and its got all the fitting and stuff i need i am pretty sure it has a thermostat init allready i was just asking if anyone else could confirm that without me pulling the filter off