BMCracer

No, not a dicky bird.

After I wrote Subaru NZ a letter explaining all the damage they did to the interior of my car while doing the recall, all the not-refitted screws I found on the floor / in the console / under the floor mats, the trim pieces that fell off when I looked at them, and then receiving no reply what-so-ever, you might be able to understand my complete lack of confidence in anything they ( attempt to ) do, and my very strong desire to never have them touch my car ever again. It also was not on that often immediately after the recall ( but it had never ever come on prior to the recall work ), so I wasn't initially that concerned about it. Over time it has steadily got worse, to the point now I wonder if the airbag would actually function correctly in the event it was required to

Ever since the butchers at SubLab East Tamaki made a right meal of the airbag recall on my car, the airbag light on the dash has come on and off at random times. Now it's on almost permanently. Is the yellow wiring under / behind the dash the airbag loom? Are there any areas in particular I should be looking at, of just try to check everything?

No. After tipping in half a bottle of octane booster as mentioned further up this page, each fill thereafter I just filled with petrol. The IAM seemed to stay off 0.000 but never reached 1.00. From memory it ran around 0.3-0.4 for around 6 tanks of petrol. The other week I had to tow a car trailer with car on, so prior I filled the tank and used the remaining half bottle of octane booster. Very disappointingly the IAM went straight down to 0.000 and stayed there. 2 further tanks of petrol later the IAM is at 0.156. So the next time I have to tow a car trailer and car, I will try the whole bottle of octane booster, which should bring the octane up by 6 points ( for the full bottle ). The car should be running better as I moved further away from work, before I lived a lot closer and it was all stop start urban roads. Now it gets a decent run each day and my commute is 30-40 minutes, which is almost exclusively motorway. The dash usually reads around 8.4L/100km

Was in Auckland, in Western Australia now ( same car, took it with me to Oz ) .... but wow 100 at the pump would be great, and yes interesting to see the affect. Don't think I can get 100 over here, but surely someone in NZ can run 100 in their 3.0 for a bit and see if it makes a difference? I know I'm not the only one with this problem in a 3.0

So I finally got a new unit in the dash cubby to replace the Nexus 7, so I can keep an eye on things once again with the BtSsm. IAM still around 0.LOW. I've been wondering for a long time if it's simply because they run 100 octane in Japan and the best we can get is 98? When I got the car I was running 95 in it, then when I changed to 98 it didn't make any difference to the IAM. The IAM has always been low, and any time I gave it a bit of reasonable accelerator, or had a semi-loaded trailer on the back, the IAM would instantly go down to 0.000, before recovering (!) back up to 0.2ish several days later. Last week I bought a bottle of Octane booster ( NF race octane booster ), which has been independently tested to give up tp 6 Ron increase. I put in half the 375ml bottle which should equate to 3 Ron increase which would bring the 98 up to 101. Went down to the petrol station ( 7 Eleven which sells Mobil petrol ), tipped in half the bottle, and filled up with 98. The next morning once the new juice had got through to the engine, the IAM instantly went up, right up to 1.0, before settling at 0.625, where it stayed for the rest of the week until I put my trailer on the back, and then the IAM went down to 0.375, still better than pre-octane booster. The thing that really convinced me though, is that the several times I'l given it a bit of reasonable accelerator which previously would see the IAM instantly plummet to 0.000, it has not moved, stayed exactly where it was. I filled up again last night, whiteout adding more octane booster, and we'll see what happens,. The octane booster at $45 a bottle is too expensive to use all the time, but I think I'll start using it when I know I'm going to be pulling my trailer or some other hard work for the car. So that's my unscientific research to date, still more testing to do to see what I can get out of it.

They all do it, you just can't hear it. I only know it knocks because I have the BtSsm plugged in and displaying all the time, so I can see it happening. Before I got the BtSsm I would never have known.

Mine knocks a lot on 98 ( totally standard car with factory tune ), so there's no way I'd buy one that I knew had been run on 91.

On my car the up and down buttons ( under the volume buttons ) on the steering wheel scan the band. Is there a way to change that so instead of scanning, it would change to the next preset station? Seems kind of pointless having steering wheel controls to keep your hands on the wheel, but they don't do the most common operations. My stereo is the same as below ATTACHMENTS s-l1600 (2).jpg (243.72 KiB) Viewed 168 times 2007 NZ new 3.0 Spec B 5EAT wagon in Brilliant Silver 39D

Don't wish, just do it. Get a pair of mirrors from the wreckers yard from a Jap legacy, the switch panel by your knee, and the car-end plugs where the mirror plugs into the loom.

Finished wiring up the JDM-spec electric folding and heated mirrors that I've put on my Gen 4 facelift Legacy.

Has anyone removed the throttle body on an H6 engine to clean it properly, rather than just cleaniing what you can with it on the car ( basically only one side of it ). Is it a big job / worth the effort?

Has anyone removed the throttle body ( on an H6 engine ) to clean it properly, rather than just doing what you can with it on the car?

Araldite fixed the crack. 20200818_174210 by JAFA851, on Flickr This is the throttle body. Does it look like it needs cleaning? With a squirty can of snake oil from Supercrap? 20200818_182344 by JAFA851, on Flickr

So I finally found the time ( and a spare car to use ) last night so I pulled the air chamber off the car and put some Araldite in the crevice where the crack is. Should be able to put it back on the car tonight. The pipe that goes between the air filter and the chamber, the locating tab wasn't really lined up the best so I'll make sure that is right when I put it back together. Everything else looks ok in terms of nothing seems loose or wiring damaged etc. I haven't cleaned the throttle body, and not sure what condition it's in, might have a look tonight before I put the intake chamber back on.