BMCracer

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BMCracer last won the day on December 22 2019

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About BMCracer

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  • Drives :
    2007 NZ new 3.0 Spec B 5EAT wagon.
  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia

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  1. Last weekend I changed the parklight lamps to Narva LED 6000K ones, because one was blown and the standard yellow ones gave me the s***s next to nice white HID main lights. The 6000K is slightly off compared to the HID's, but close enough in the mean time. The LED lights up the parking light lens a lot better, the light flows around the housing shape a lot better, and actually looks like a weak DRL. So, the question is, do T10 / W5W wedge lamps in more than 5 watts exist ( I haven't found any yet but might not be looking in the right places ), and would they do any damage ( wiring, melt the housing etc )? The Narva ones I have in now say they use 80% less power than a comparable traditional lamp, so even a 21W LED lamp would use less power than the original standard lamp. A 21W would light up the parker housing even better, and could probably then be used as a DRL, without being bright enough to cause a problem at night with the main lights on. Which would save me pulling my lights to bits to try and fit some ebay special LED tube light thing. My car has the self levelling lights with washers etc, seems like a lot of chances to screw something up then mega bucks for a replacement.
  2. I got one from Kenian a while ago ( over a year ), and it's primo. Took a bit of work and more bolts than supplied to get it installed to sit nice and tight to the bottom of the bumper, but once done it's rock solid and looks the same as the mega-dollar STI ones ( minus the little sticker in the centre ). Very happy with it, so if he can get more the same, they'd be good to get.
  3. Totally standard engine. I'ts got a Cosworth Filter, new plugs 9000kms ago ( engine is at 169,000 ), a run Castrol 10W40 oil in it ( changed with filter every 5000km ), and now run it on 98 ( usually Mobil ) - I ran it on 95 for about the first 18 months I had it ( in NZ ). I took the car to Perth with me last year, at 160,000km. 98 petrol over here is $1.49/litre so 98 over here costs me less than 91 in NZ, and as a bonus I get better economy over here because Perth is flatter than Auckland 😁 I bought the car in Whangarei with 139,000km on it. It's NZ new with 5EAT gearbox. I don't drive it hard ( maybe it needs an "Italian" tuneup?? ). I can't say I've ever been impressed with the low down torque, for a 3L 6 cylinder I thought it should go better. And the gearbox shifting is horrible, mechanically it's fine but whatever tells it what gear to be in and when to change is terrible. Just as well it has paddles.......... Anyway, it started using more fuel recently, and I found 2 error codes using BtSsm - IAT too high and MAF too low ( I think, maybe I got that around the wrong way ). So I reset the ECU at the lights, the faults cleared, and the fuel consumption came back down. I took some logs I think the first one is before I reset the ECU and the rest after. thumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1508 by JAFA851, on Flickr thumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1513 by JAFA851, on Flickr thumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1525 by JAFA851, on Flickr thumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1544 by JAFA851, on Flickr When running BtSsm in the car, the IAT is always very low, the highest I have ever seen it is 0.500, but most of the time it's around 0.125 or lower, quite often it sits at 0.000 I would like to get this sorted out, and increase the lower end torque for round town driving. Not interested in HP, it's got more than enough, but more low end torque and better fuel economy would be nice. Been reading about the Raptor headers, apparently those and tune make a lot of difference, but then I just read a thread on here someone said not worth the money? Dunno any tuners over here, and am partial to having a back and forth with an E tuner to get it properly right over several fine tunes, rather than one blast on the dyno which isn't totally like the real world.
  4. I'm going to put this here because it's all part of the Nexus install problems, so people can hopefully find several answers in the one place. Maybe a Mod can change the title to "Nexus 7 Fixed Install Problems"? It's been going well since the above posts. Then the car started using a little more petrol than usual, used to be around 10.6/100, but it went up to 11.4/100, for no apparent reason. So I looked at the codes, and it had 2 error codes up ( I will start a new topic for this in the appropriate section ) IAT too low MAF too high I forget the code numbers, and I may have got the too high and too low around the wrong way, but anyway. So I reset the ECU while sitting at a set of traffic lights, then continued on. The fuel consumption went back down to 10.6/100, and the car *seemed* to have a bit more go. I did some logs before and after I reset the ECU to see how much timing it was pulling out. When I got home and turned the Nexus Wifi on to connect to the house wifi, so I could email the logs to my PC so I can post them and hopefully get some advice on the problem and what to do about it. Ever since then, the Nexus has s*** itself ( again ), more specifically the FI mode, and it won't sleep when the power is cut to it etc etc. I've had this several times before, and the only thing that seems to fix it is a new USB OTG Y cable. So I took the cable to work and ground off all the rubber insulation around the 3 plugs, and then cut all the other bonding stuff away, hoping to find a microchip that is fried. But no, there is nothing but the wires going between the plugs. So I've put another ( I started buying them 5 at a time ) new USB OTG Y cable on the Nexus now, and it magically works again. I'm guessing as long as I don't connect the Nexus to the wifi, it'll be good. So I've got 2 questions. 1/ How do you brick a cable that is only copper wire and plastic insulation? 2/ How else do you connect to the internet? For maps etc? Do you use your phone as a hotspot and connect the Nexus to your phone, and somehow having your phone between the Nexus and the internet provides some kind of barrier that stops the internet bricking the OTG Y cable? And then bluetooth the files from the Nexus to your phone, then you can email the files from your phone to whoever / wherever?
  5. What products did you use? That looks like new
  6. Couldn't have done it without all your help!! Honestly, the thing would have been thrown on the driveway then had a sledgehammer put through it. But happy days now finally, touch wood.
  7. OK, Gripless is the winner. Pulled the ILM fuse and sure enough it was blown. Replaced it, and now the stereo back lighting, hazard switch back lighting, headlight symbol, gear lever position ( auto ) back lighting, SI Drive controller, and number-plate lights all work again. Thanks guys.
  8. No, because my car doesn't have driving lights, or drl's. No auto lights either. The symbol always used to come on when you turn the park lights / head lights on. Now nothing.
  9. So using the links from Andy_Mac, and Pharnos' instructions on LegacyGT.com, I got that ADB and Fastboot installed on my PC, and sorted out the off-mode-charge setting. Pharnos, mate you're a bloody legend for working that out and posting it up, and Andy_Mac, you're a legend too for posting up the links to it. Thanks heaps guys, that made my night tonight 😊
  10. OK so maybe the bulb didn't die. Because also the stereo back lighting doesn't work, and the hazard switch back lighting doesn't work either. I read on Subaruoutback.org someone had a similar problem, and was directed to fuse #16. I'm guessing fuse #16 is under the dash, but when I pulled the cover off, the fuses aren't labelled with numbers, and none of them are labelled with anything I would relate to the hazard switch / stereo / headlight symbol. The only one remotely close is labelled "Audio NAVI", but that fuse was ok ( 20A ). So does anyone know which fuse it could be, or have a wiring diagram for a 2007 Legacy? Some fuses are labelled "I L M", "M I R" ( mirror? ), "D-OP +B", 'Lamp IG", "I G 1", "I G 2", "A/C I G", " Meter I G", so many "I G"s whatever they are!!! Otherwise I guess I'll just start pulling fuses until I hopefully find it?
  11. Thanks a lot Andy_Mac, I will have a go at this tonight.
  12. OK so yes I am a retard. And I know it. I went to here Pharnos' thread https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5478955&postcount=32 as linked by Andy Mac and then I went here https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html and downloaded the SDK Platform-Tools for Windows. Next I plugged the Nexus into my PC, and turned the Nexus on by pushing the power and volume - buttons together to enter Bootlogger mode. Moved to option "Restart Bootloader" press power button, it did it. But it comes back to the same screen. Where / how do I type in the code " adb reboot bootloader " to get to the next screen so I can change the off-mode-charge from yes to no?
  13. Since I had my car butchered by Winger Sublab East Tamaki, I've finally fixed everything and put all the screws back where they should be and cleaned and refitted all the trims properly. Now the airbag light keeps coming on at random times, and takes a while to go out, sometimes up to 10 minutes, so I'm guessing they didn't plug it in properly? Anyone know where the plug is exactly, and how I can access it without pulling the whole dash out? Can I get to it if I pull the glovebox or the centre air vent / cubby out?
  14. Sorry to hear that. Sounds like a right pos that needs a visit from your "mates" when you locate her.
  15. Any updates on this? Did you get your money, or have their arse hauled to jail?