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BMCracer

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Everything posted by BMCracer

  1. After I wrote Subaru NZ a letter explaining all the damage they did to the interior of my car while doing the recall, all the not-refitted screws I found on the floor / in the console / under the floor mats, the trim pieces that fell off when I looked at them, and then receiving no reply what-so-ever, you might be able to understand my complete lack of confidence in anything they ( attempt to ) do, and my very strong desire to never have them touch my car ever again. It also was not on that often immediately after the recall ( but it had never ever come on prior to the recall work ), so I wasn't initially that concerned about it. Over time it has steadily got worse, to the point now I wonder if the airbag would actually function correctly in the event it was required to
  2. Ever since the butchers at SubLab East Tamaki made a right meal of the airbag recall on my car, the airbag light on the dash has come on and off at random times. Now it's on almost permanently. Is the yellow wiring under / behind the dash the airbag loom? Are there any areas in particular I should be looking at, of just try to check everything?
  3. No. After tipping in half a bottle of octane booster as mentioned further up this page, each fill thereafter I just filled with petrol. The IAM seemed to stay off 0.000 but never reached 1.00. From memory it ran around 0.3-0.4 for around 6 tanks of petrol. The other week I had to tow a car trailer with car on, so prior I filled the tank and used the remaining half bottle of octane booster. Very disappointingly the IAM went straight down to 0.000 and stayed there. 2 further tanks of petrol later the IAM is at 0.156. So the next time I have to tow a car trailer and car, I will try the whole bottle of octane booster, which should bring the octane up by 6 points ( for the full bottle ). The car should be running better as I moved further away from work, before I lived a lot closer and it was all stop start urban roads. Now it gets a decent run each day and my commute is 30-40 minutes, which is almost exclusively motorway. The dash usually reads around 8.4L/100km
  4. Was in Auckland, in Western Australia now ( same car, took it with me to Oz ) .... but wow 100 at the pump would be great, and yes interesting to see the affect. Don't think I can get 100 over here, but surely someone in NZ can run 100 in their 3.0 for a bit and see if it makes a difference? I know I'm not the only one with this problem in a 3.0
  5. So I finally got a new unit in the dash cubby to replace the Nexus 7, so I can keep an eye on things once again with the BtSsm. IAM still around 0.LOW. I've been wondering for a long time if it's simply because they run 100 octane in Japan and the best we can get is 98? When I got the car I was running 95 in it, then when I changed to 98 it didn't make any difference to the IAM. The IAM has always been low, and any time I gave it a bit of reasonable accelerator, or had a semi-loaded trailer on the back, the IAM would instantly go down to 0.000, before recovering (!) back up to 0.2ish several days later. Last week I bought a bottle of Octane booster ( NF race octane booster ), which has been independently tested to give up tp 6 Ron increase. I put in half the 375ml bottle which should equate to 3 Ron increase which would bring the 98 up to 101. Went down to the petrol station ( 7 Eleven which sells Mobil petrol ), tipped in half the bottle, and filled up with 98. The next morning once the new juice had got through to the engine, the IAM instantly went up, right up to 1.0, before settling at 0.625, where it stayed for the rest of the week until I put my trailer on the back, and then the IAM went down to 0.375, still better than pre-octane booster. The thing that really convinced me though, is that the several times I'l given it a bit of reasonable accelerator which previously would see the IAM instantly plummet to 0.000, it has not moved, stayed exactly where it was. I filled up again last night, whiteout adding more octane booster, and we'll see what happens,. The octane booster at $45 a bottle is too expensive to use all the time, but I think I'll start using it when I know I'm going to be pulling my trailer or some other hard work for the car. So that's my unscientific research to date, still more testing to do to see what I can get out of it.
  6. They all do it, you just can't hear it. I only know it knocks because I have the BtSsm plugged in and displaying all the time, so I can see it happening. Before I got the BtSsm I would never have known.
  7. Mine knocks a lot on 98 ( totally standard car with factory tune ), so there's no way I'd buy one that I knew had been run on 91.
  8. On my car the up and down buttons ( under the volume buttons ) on the steering wheel scan the band. Is there a way to change that so instead of scanning, it would change to the next preset station? Seems kind of pointless having steering wheel controls to keep your hands on the wheel, but they don't do the most common operations. My stereo is the same as below ATTACHMENTS s-l1600 (2).jpg (243.72 KiB) Viewed 168 times 2007 NZ new 3.0 Spec B 5EAT wagon in Brilliant Silver 39D
  9. Don't wish, just do it. Get a pair of mirrors from the wreckers yard from a Jap legacy, the switch panel by your knee, and the car-end plugs where the mirror plugs into the loom.
  10. Finished wiring up the JDM-spec electric folding and heated mirrors that I've put on my Gen 4 facelift Legacy.
  11. Has anyone removed the throttle body on an H6 engine to clean it properly, rather than just cleaniing what you can with it on the car ( basically only one side of it ). Is it a big job / worth the effort?
  12. Has anyone removed the throttle body ( on an H6 engine ) to clean it properly, rather than just doing what you can with it on the car?
  13. Araldite fixed the crack. 20200818_174210 by JAFA851, on Flickr This is the throttle body. Does it look like it needs cleaning? With a squirty can of snake oil from Supercrap? 20200818_182344 by JAFA851, on Flickr
  14. So I finally found the time ( and a spare car to use ) last night so I pulled the air chamber off the car and put some Araldite in the crevice where the crack is. Should be able to put it back on the car tonight. The pipe that goes between the air filter and the chamber, the locating tab wasn't really lined up the best so I'll make sure that is right when I put it back together. Everything else looks ok in terms of nothing seems loose or wiring damaged etc. I haven't cleaned the throttle body, and not sure what condition it's in, might have a look tonight before I put the intake chamber back on.
  15. OK so I went out tonight after tea and logged it again, and added and deleted the parameters accordingly. There is no parameters for FBKC, gear ( my car is 5 speed auto ), fuel tank pressure, or EGR steps. I found and added the CPC, and added 2 other ones I thought may be useful ( the last 2 in columns Y and Z )? I cruised along the surburban roads to the motorway, the first on ramp was wasted because of sleepyhead in front, so I did 3 more on-ramps and gave it a good rev out to 6000rpm ( been a very long time since it's been anywhere near that high!! ), then off the motorway and cruise back home. So hopefully there is some good data there which can tell us something. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lXS34SoL9a_1-nQw9aQnqMP-QGeJEQYK/view?usp=sharing The thing I've noticed when I had the Nexus in the car and could see the IAM live, when it's sitting at whatever number, any time I drove the car any harder than absolute grandma, even if I drive the car just totally normally ( not giving it any beans but not taking all day either ), the IAM always took a massive dive instantly. As you can see on tonight's log, the IAM is at 0.000. What happens if it wants to take even more timing out? Can it go negative? Or does it just display 0.000 and then keep taking timing out anyway if it wants to?
  16. I was looking for the FBKC but couldn't see it, maybe I need to look harder. I'll try to do another run tonight and get rid of the parameters not needed and try to find the other ones you have suggested. Thanks for your continuing help and advice
  17. Went for a drive this afternoon and logged the parameters you said ( hope I got them all ). https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Tp6dKQKqofP49Tc_COpUk2rCWzXBdbi6/view?usp=sharing
  18. Oh ok so I should log it with RomRaider like before when we did the AVCS solenoid? I will try to do that on the weekend. Won't have the intake crack fixed by them though.
  19. I couldn't find Feedback Knock Correction or Fine Knock Correction on the BtSsm. Is the FKC value Feedback Knock COrrection? What is FLKC? Anyway, does this below tell you anything? KNOCK DETECTED at 2020-06-15 02:56:00 pmCoolant (degC): 96Injector PW (ms): 4.9Load (g/rev): 0.68MAF (g/s): 15.34Misfire cyl 1: 0Misfire cyl 2: 0Misfire cyl 3: 0Misfire cyl 4: 0Misfire cyl 5: 0Misfire cyl 6: 0Oil (degC): 92RPM: 1344Speed (kmh): 60.0Throttle plate (%): 10.2Timing (deg): 18.5VVT int L (deg): 20VVT int R (deg): 20IAM: 0.344FKC (deg): -0.70FLKC (deg): -0.09KNOCK DETECTED at 2020-06-15 02:55:55 pmCoolant (degC): 95Injector PW (ms): 5.4Load (g/rev): 0.72MAF (g/s): 16.06Misfire cyl 1: 0Misfire cyl 2: 0Misfire cyl 3: 0Misfire cyl 4: 0Misfire cyl 5: 0Misfire cyl 6: 0Oil (degC): 92RPM: 1343Speed (kmh): 57.0Throttle plate (%): 10.6Timing (deg): 16.0VVT int L (deg): 20VVT int R (deg): 20IAM: 0.344FKC (deg): -0.70FLKC (deg): -0.09KNOCK DETECTED at 2020-06-15 02:55:48 pmCoolant (degC): 95Injector PW (ms): 5.4Load (g/rev): 0.74MAF (g/s): 15.27Misfire cyl 1: 0Misfire cyl 2: 0Misfire cyl 3: 0Misfire cyl 4: 0Misfire cyl 5: 0Misfire cyl 6: 0Oil (degC): 92RPM: 1238Speed (kmh): 56.0Throttle plate (%): 10.2Timing (deg): 17.0VVT int L (deg): 20VVT int R (deg): 20IAM: 0.344FKC (deg): -0.70FLKC (deg): -0.09KNOCK DETECTED at 2020-06-15 02:55:02 pmCoolant (degC): 97Injector PW (ms): 5.1Load (g/rev): 0.71MAF (g/s): 14.13Misfire cyl 1: 0Misfire cyl 2: 0Misfire cyl 3: 0Misfire cyl 4: 0Misfire cyl 5: 0Misfire cyl 6: 0Oil (degC): 93RPM: 1187Speed (kmh): 52.0Throttle plate (%): 10.2Timing (deg): 16.5VVT int L (deg): 0VVT int R (deg): 0IAM: 0.344FKC (deg): -0.70FLKC (deg): -0.09KNOCK DETECTED at 2020-06-15 02:54:54 pmCoolant (degC): 97Injector PW (ms): 5.4Load (g/rev): 0.73MAF (g/s): 14.96Misfire cyl 1: 0Misfire cyl 2: 0Misfire cyl 3: 0Misfire cyl 4: 0Misfire cyl 5: 0Misfire cyl 6: 0Oil (degC): 93RPM: 1227Speed (kmh): 55.0Throttle plate (%): 10.2Timing (deg): 16.0VVT int L (deg): 0VVT int R (deg): 0IAM: 0.344FKC (deg): -0.70FLKC (deg): -0.09KNOCK DETECTED at 2020-06-15 02:54:50 pmCoolant (degC): 96Injector PW (ms): 5.1Load (g/rev): 0.71MAF (g/s): 14.19Misfire cyl 1: 0Misfire cyl 2: 0Misfire cyl 3: 0Misfire cyl 4: 0Misfire cyl 5: 0Misfire cyl 6: 0Oil (degC): 93RPM: 1207Speed (kmh): 54.0Throttle plate (%): 9.8Timing (deg): 17.0VVT int L (deg): 0VVT int R (deg): 0IAM: 0.344FKC (deg): -0.70FLKC (deg): -0.09KNOCK DETECTED at 2020-06-15 02:51:08 pmCoolant (degC): 95Injector PW (ms): 4.9Load (g/rev): 0.71MAF (g/s): 15.17Misfire cyl 1: 0Misfire cyl 2: 0Misfire cyl 3: 0Misfire cyl 4: 0Misfire cyl 5: 0Misfire cyl 6: 0Oil (degC): 91RPM: 1289Speed (kmh): 58.0Throttle plate (%): 10.2Timing (deg): 19.5VVT int L (deg): 19VVT int R (deg): 20IAM: 0.344FKC (deg): -0.70FLKC (deg): 0.34KNOCK DETECTED at 2020-06-15 02:51:03 pmCoolant (degC): 95Injector PW (ms): 5.6Load (g/rev): 0.82MAF (g/s): 17.90Misfire cyl 1: 0Misfire cyl 2: 0Misfire cyl 3: 0Misfire cyl 4: 0Misfire cyl 5: 0Misfire cyl 6: 0Oil (degC): 91RPM: 1314Speed (kmh): 59.0Throttle plate (%): 11.4Timing (deg): 15.5VVT int L (deg): 20VVT int R (deg): 20IAM: 0.344FKC (deg): -0.70FLKC (deg): 0.34
  20. I think the BtSsm is reading the IAM correctly, as there is always a long list of knock events on the tab next to the "LV" at the top right of the screen. I might get some of those off and post up so you can see. It doesn't look right to me, as they are quite often as low revs or low load yet it reckons it is pinging it's head off. As far as I can tell and hear, there are not rattles of loose things, either at idle with the bonnet up, or driving along with the window down trying to hear anything. So I really don't know. @ajayel do you know if the 3.6 litre motors have these problems?
  21. Latest log. Been a few weeks since I put in the new solenoid and reset the ECU. About the only thing I've noticed is it seems to start a little quicker when cold, otherwise it's still got about as much go as a 3 legged donkey with a limp.... BtSsm_LV_20200612_1515 by JAFA851, on Flickr Just checked the airbox at the back of the engine, and there is a small crack in it. What's best to fix that with, some epoxy smoothed over the joint? 20200614_111457 by JAFA851, on Flickr
  22. With staff and service to match
  23. Interested to know how this changed the logged knock. Do you think it was quite clogged up and limiting the fuel flow enough fo it to run a bit lean and then knock?
  24. It's very frustrating, it's such a nice car, but let down by the engine running issues. Like you, I run my car on the same brand ( Mobil ) 98 all the time, yet the IAM moves around quite a lot. I don't have the gear to do a leak down test. I maintain the car regularly myself, always use Castrol 10W40 semi synthetic oil and genuine filters. I use genuine parts all over the car ( hello Partsouq ) I will check the plastic air chamber on the weekend to see if it's cracked. I cleaned the whole underneath of the car with a paintbrush and a toothbrush before shipping it to Australia, and got all the stones out of everywhere. The car had a rattle at certain low speed prior, but now it has gone so I'm hopinig it was the stones I cleared out of everywhere. I also made sure the steel guards were tight so they should be good. I might get a new fuel filter and strainer next time I order from Partsouq. I'm going to do a thermostat and radiator cap and full flush and new coolant before next summer too.
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