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Everything posted by Gripless

  1. Lol my car is now on a list but no letter from Subaru or NZTA.
  2. Maybe it’s just the sensor reading better without the burnt oil in the exhaust. Sensor may see oil as fuel since it’s the base from which petrol is made. That or oil blocks the reading of oxygen a bit Engine may be running the same.
  3. I’ve used both. The higher cost one is far better. It’s 1-2mm or white heavy rubber/tar then foam. One sheet will do. Other option put cheap foam on top of leftover dynamat
  4. JayCar stuff just behind speaker. It’s like dynamat with foam on top.
  5. Do the Transmission tunnel if you love pulling up carpet Front wheel wells are curved and rubber mat so maybe skip those. But just in front of doors is open and hollow. Ie where the wires to the doors go through
  6. Yes jaycar stuff is closed cell foam so no water gets held in it. Also mount it so the top slopes so water runs off the top edge. I cut the foam back on the top edge at 45 degrees as well to it has even less chance of water staying there.
  7. Headunit will be far better than you think those JVC units are underrated. Speakers and mounting will make the biggest difference. Speaker brand depends on music taste. The more effort on the things below can make $50 speakers sound better than $500 speakers on not installed properly. sound deadening is good and for the price @Omsin got it well worth doing. The noise is resonating bass form the door cavity. Makes a difference to exhaust drone as well. Won’t help you if you have a pitch stop mount that is too hard though. Things to do with install: buy and some jaycar closed cell foam to the outer door skin to stop reflections even if you do doors fully in dynamat like stuff. Speaker cones are thin and sound does also go through them. Newer cars have foam rings around the speakers to seal them to the plastic door trim so no bass leaks where you can’t hear it. Speaker mount maybe as be as big as 6.5” and the newer plastic is sometimes better. Ie 2007 up speakers are in carbon fibre reinforced. Not woven pretty but mixed into the plastic. I cut the factory speakers out and screwed new 6.5” infinity coaxial speakers in. Sounds pretty good but have underwear sub as well now If you dynamat cut strips (or foam) to put between speakers and mounting plates as well to squash down and airtight seal things.
  8. Drill + can opener = win Ok so someone did that on a rally I was on once and scrutineers had a hard time figuring out if it was ok.
  9. Do you use the back seats? You can get half cage with side beams that go to the front foot wells under LVVTA. So you have the brake master brace already?
  10. Yes but short of a cage that links all the points solidly you don’t get much. I’ve had cars stripped full of braces and then a cage and it’s little upgrade to braces, then night and day for cage. The braces in the front arches were the most noticeable. Stitch welding along that area helps too and since it’s under the guards the pain doesn’t need to be matched. The flexible ones are likely for NHV reduction than out right handling. Still get more more bang for buck with better tyres and newer shocks.
  11. The subframes are rubber mounted anyway so bracing them to themselves seems pointless. I have a few pre fitted and they make no difference compared to a swaybar or struts. Braces are are not effective on newer cars as the chassis are so much stiff from the factory. Unless you plan to rally it or track it over ripple strips with stiff springs. Save your coin.
  12. WRC developments I have heard good things over the years. PBMS is doing my current build so are an option. My current motor was a subtech/dodsons rebuild. Freight is cheap just find a old pallet and strap the motor down on a few wooden blocks where the mounts would go. Just need a saw and spare wood from anywhere. Being exited files can you compare them or are they protected. Did the tuner alter the wastegate duty before you did the run? those aftermarket solenoids change the boost level and so does the downpipe. If you had a tune to turn up the boost already it could have gone pretty high with that combo. Was it #4 bearing?
  13. @Andy_Mac is that only the 25 block or the 20 as well? Do you know which bearing?
  14. All the AVCS engines seem to make 300whp with stock turbo at ~21psi. If you want rumble then you are stuck with ej25 single scroll
  15. I’m still waiting for @Niran to sell his current EFR to @Andy_Mac so he can make more kw
  16. The efr have that titanium based wheel and billet compressor. That must add cost
  17. That is a bit sad. Have to go old skool and duct some of the scoop to cool the turbo
  18. What? if you can get to the actuator and move the lever shouldn’t you feel the baffle inside hit the two stoppers as you move it from open to close?
  19. Man they are cheap and nice
  21. The ones I saw just had new pipes bent in so they got another like 2 cm so they could mount it lower and a little further forward. EFR seems to have a steap angle to the wastegate actuator and internal bov makes it a little bulky which isnt helped by the turbosmart dual port. But you can rotate them around a bit.
  22. Front mount turbo. Cant we do the USA thing and move the abs to make room?