Dre

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About Dre

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  1. Subi-Performance Borg Warner EFR Subaru Forester part 2.Check out turbo beanie for efr turbo and “Heatshield Armour” installed to aftermarket headers.
  2. Does the aftermarket clutch plate have a solid center or springs.Mechanic talked me into a solid center clutch plate and said if I didn’t like it,he’d replace it no charge.Quick test drive,gearbox rattle was unbearable,returned car,picked up car next day with new sprung center clutch. Maybe not your issue,but it looks like your going to have to drop your gearbox to find the problem.Would pay to have a replacement gearbox ready if needed.Ask here for a recommended Subaru mechanic in your area.
  3. Go genuine,Subaru have made changes to the idler bearings.Was also told the genuine belt gives more accurate timing and that the variable cam timing is harder on belts.MRT Performance YouTube “Old vs new Ej cam and timing belt comparison,what to look for” just posted.
  4. Give David from TuneTechnic a call.Very knowledgeable guy.Does a lot of ecu work for other workshops.Unlocked my previous tune which I’ve been told is not an easy job.
  5. There’s a nice Aussie new Legacy face lift 2.5 sti sedan on Tm for a lazy $26000 with your name on it.
  6. I can understand the appeal of going to a aftermarket ecu,but is it possible that most open source tuners don’t have a full understanding/can’t be bothered with the canbus Legacy 2.0 ecu.MRT have had success with Ecutek in Oz and Cobb in USA with canbus 2.5 Legacy’s.They seem to be unlocking new features on a ongoing basis.If you are going to go to a 2.5 engine wouldn’t it maybe better to go to a 2.5 Legacy and reap the benefits of the USA aftermarket parts and Ecutek,Cobb support or reloom your car with a 2.5 ecu,loom and do your 2.5 engine build with correct heads.Either way,lots of time,money or frustration.Haltech do a plug in ecu for the pre facelift Legacy,maybe talk to them.
  7. You might be better off taking your car to a “good” Subaru mechanic for this one.Really hard to diagnose a problem without seeing the car.
  8. Hopefully not your engine thrust bearing.Can you measure the movement at the crank pulley bolt with a dial gauge?Also could be your gearbox input shaft bearing if it’s noisey with the clutch pressed fully down (maybe).Worn clutch release bearing and weak clutch plate springs will rattle with the clutch fully released. My clutch release bearing or clutch plate springs rattled when it was really cold with the clutch released.As soon as car warmed up noise went away.Motivated me to replace my worn clutch.
  9. Only reason why I replaced both of them was gearbox removed for clutch replacement.
  10. I use ADL in Penrose,Auckland or if I can,buy new Subaru original parts.Went through this with a 2002 Legacy Gtb auto.While idling in drive,car would vibrate/chatter on flat surface.ADL found me a set of low k’s inner cv’s (new Subaru part no longer available) rebuilt my axles with new outer cv’s,problem solved.Repco complete axles are rubbish as well as most aftermarket cv and boot kits.Most Subaru original part outer cv’s are now sold complete with axles as the outer cv’s are not rebuildable.Just replaced the complete front axles on my 2007 6 speed Legacy with new Subaru parts $800 each side.Price for the 2002 Legacy Gtb $1200 each side (no longer available).
  11. Check out ”Ecutek ecu connect” due this month.
  12. The cable will disappear in a Subaru engine bay if it’s a dark colour or sleeved.If you run high current amp/amps you need high current (large gauge) cable.Also a fuse or circuit breaker no more than 300mm from the battery terminal.Easiest place to grab power from is the cigarette lighter,I will be using that for the head unit power.
  13. Running a 50 Amp fused cable from the battery to the amp under the passenger seat.My son’s Legacy bh gtb 2002 had a 5 channel McIntosh amp under the drivers seat with it’s own power supply.
  14. 3 half days and still at it.Replacing my sons entire legacy gtb McIntosh stereo system.New Alpine head unit,MB Quartz reference speakers,Rockfordfosgate 4 channel amplifier and sub.All new,old school gear which I’ve hoarded since the early 2000’s.
  15. Monitor your fluids and get a leak down test.I’m currently chasing a strange vibration from my engine around 2800 rpm.Had a leak down test and oil pressure check.Results came back ok.Peace of mind that the engine at least is not ready to expire.