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About cods4

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  1. If you are wanting to play it extra safe (which is what I'd be doing) then go and speak to the tuner and see if they will book a dyno slot for you, but if the initial baseline test looks good and you are happy with it, agree beforehand that you have the option to stop there and only pay $x i.e 2-3-400. A decent chunk of the work of getting it tuned is setting it up on the dyno, checking everything is working fine etc. PBMS are a good bet I should think, personally I used E&H motors to tune my standalone ECU and I'm very happy with the results. Karl Ruiterman has a lot of experience with subarus and used to be the only option in Pukekohe until PBMS got back into tuning.
  2. I believe the cage needs to extend to the front strut towers if you have removed the airbags and you want this included on the authority card. The LVVTA cert can cover the removal of the airbags if the car is pre-2001, however it's generally much easier dealing with the authority card scrutineer than the LVVTA cert guy. Plus as Gripless said, it also improves chassis stiffness which is worthwhile in a GC8.
  3. Thanks @evowrx and @boostin. If anyone has any input on a reasonably priced diff suitable for gravel rally/hill climbs etc. I'm thinking that 10kgf @ 50rpm (ST389134S010) diff would be a good option. Or would I be better off upgrading to a used DCCD box or do they have reliability issues when used for motorsport.
  4. So it sounds f***ed to you? What are my options? I plan to drive it as it is for a few events (autocrosses, hillclimbs etc) just to get some seat time. But once i have the money. what would be a recommended diff for a mix of say 50% tarmac and 50% gravel? I am thinking either factory a 10kg viscous diff (ST389134S010) or some aftermarket unit (cusco, kaaz etc). I've spoken to a few rally guys in NZ who use a 20kg viscous coupler. But I imagine this would be far too tight on tarmac. It also seems like most of the aftermarket units are for the 5 speed boxes. would these be compatible with the 6 speed too?
  5. I got back out to where the car is stored tonight and did a bit of investigation. The gearbox code is TY-856WB1CA which indicates that it has a 4kgf viscous centre diff. I also looked under the car and it doesnt look like it has the wires coming out for a DCCD. I ran it in 1st gear on the axle stands and then gently pulled the handbrake up to stop the rear wheels. As expected it didnt take too much force to stop them. I took a video of the sound it made. Any ideas on what has happened and what could cause this? When we installed the driveshaft it didn't fully seat in the transmission, as if it is 10-15mm too short. Is this normal or did I somehow get the wrong driveshaft? It supposedly came off the same V7 sti as the gearbox and diff.
  6. I was pretty sure it wasn't. The trans code came up as viscous centre I think. I will have to get underneath it again to confirm if the wires are there. You have got me a bit excited now
  7. So the 6 speed has been in for a while. Just got around to getting a wheel alignment yesterday and taking it for its first proper drive and it happened to be raining. Now I have a suspicion that the centre diff is toast. The rear end just lets go under acceleration in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear. Whereas with the 5 speed, it generally seemed to hook up and go in the wet. Also when I drop the clutch on the wet grass it is only the rear wheels that spin. Are these signs of a stuffed centre diff or has the diff possibly been modified for rear wheel drive? If it was acting as an open diff I would have expected to get some front wheel spin as well or instead of rear wheel.
  8. Thanks for the help guys. I think I have all the parts you are talking about so I will be able to have a play around to see what fits. Got the rear diff and axles and hubs in today. Gearbox hopefully will go in next weekend. Those long bolts that attach to the rear lateral links were a pain. I now need to see if Subaru NZ has new bolts in stock and I will price up some whiteline bushings.
  9. Ok sweet, I have all that. I'll see how I go.
  10. I'm in the process of doing a 6-speed conversion on my V4 sti (ie it's on the hoist now with the diff out). I think I have all the bits i need including rear diff and axles etc. But as yet I have not got a 6-speed clutch. My current clutch is a decent 6 puk racing one in good nick. Just skimmed the flywheel last time it was out but other than that it looked good. Can I reuse my 5 speed clutch with the 6 speed GD box? I'm just getting confused about if one box is set up for a push type clutch and the other for a pull type and whether it is an easy conversion or what? FYI I have the 6-speed slave cylinder set-up and flywheel, just not the clutch.
  11. I've got the repco quick-lift orange jack which I'm pretty happy with. Had it a year and had no issues. Seems to be built very well. It looks like it's on special at Repco now for $169. When I got my car it was a bit too low for the jack so I would just drive onto 1" thick planks before trying to jack it up and it worked fine. Now it is raised on gravel suspension so no more issues. I've also got a DeWalt DCF889 18V impact wrench which works very well. When I tighten up my wheel nuts with my mates $500 CH pneumatic rattle gun I can always get them undone so it seems plenty powerful enough. Definitely worth having if you are going to be swapping wheels often, ie for track days or any motorsport.
  12. I already have the Link G4, CDB, forged internals, 1000cc injectorsrunning E85 and an EWG and EL headers ready to install.... I was just wanting to know what is involved to actually fit the EFR turbos etc. Was my initial list pretty accurate or is there more to it?
  13. Whats involved with doing a twisted turbo setup to get a big garrett or EFR in there? Flip manifold, front mount, new downpipe and uppipe (Or do you use an adaptor for the uppipe?), oil and water lines, external waste gate? Is there anything else I/m missing? Doesn't sound like $10k+ to me. But it would be expensive
  14. chassis number should only be on the firewall and the FHI strut tower plate. The VIN (Put on when it is first registered in NZ) should be on the separate VIN plate (often on the opposite strut tower), and it may be etched into the rear windscreen (although this may only be for NZ new cars). I dont think there is anywhere else you can find the chassis number.
  15. So the specs are V4 STI Fully forged internsls and closed deck block. Built by PBMS TD05-16g turbo ID1000 injectors running E85 - and supporting fuel system etc V7 STI top mount intercooler. Modified to fit and to use old style plastic BOV Stock headers, Siamese downpipe and quiet, slightly restrictive exhaust Link G4 ECU tuned by E&H Motors