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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/08/22 in Posts

  1. The flip side that warrants mentioning - I asked around and found someone that has been running a PPD exhaust for a couple of years... admittedly on a diesel ute, not a performance car, and it has held up just fine EXCEPT that it has rusted, which is kinda funny considering it's "stainless"
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  2. From memory this was correct last time I used it. The colours they have listed may not be correct but the positions on the connector will be. https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Subaru-Suzuki/subaru_legacy_2008_pinout.shtml
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  3. Hope this might be useful reference for someone; I always find it easier pulling something apart when I know what it looks like inside. I hate taking off trim more than anything. You'll need: *) Something to pry up the door card. You can buy a special tool. I didn't. I used a nylon spatula from our kitchen that has a very thin edge that tapers up to quite a strong thick shank (and it doesn't scratch paint). *) A philips screwdriver or two. You might get away with one. I used two sizes. *) 8mm socket. *) A smallish flathead screwdriver for prying. First use a small flathead to flick the tiny cover of the screw in the door latch. Undo the screw with a philips. Use your philips again to pry out the plastic fascia that sits on the front of the door latch. It just has plastic tabs so be gentle and stick something (credit card or whatever) under each bit you pry out so that doesn't pop back in or tempt you to twist it out early and break the tabs (did I mention I hate taking off trim?) Remove the small rubbery cover that sits in the door pull and undo the other philips holding the door card on. The cover is just sitting there, so just lift it up with something sharpish. I didn't get any pictures of pulling the door card off, but I will when I do the other side. Til then ... There are 8 lugs around the perimeter of the door card. 3 down each side, and 2 along the bottom. There are a further 2 in the middle just forward of, and above, the arm rest. I recommend you start at the one in the front bottom corner by the speaker as the door card is strongest there (and it's least visible if you mark it at all). Jimmy your chosen tool (mine was the spatula) between the door card and the door metal until you can get your fingers in there. The just pull until it pops out. Work your hand along the underside of the door until you reach the other bottom one and pop that out. Then just follow your nose up the sides. You need to swing the door card out from the bottom, being careful to lift it over the metal frame the door pull screwed into. This will pop out the middle lugs, and also allow you to work/ lift the door card off the metal lip it hangs on at the top of the door. All this to get at the bottom of three bolts holding the mirror on! Don't pull the door card too far out, as it is tethered by wires/ plugs for the puddle light, window switches, and speakers. You can shift it sideways a bit and hang it precariously on the door pull. Then you take off the corner trim that covers the other two bolts holding the mirror on (right 94251XA00AJC, left 94251XA01AJC). This is the thing I most expected to break whilst trying to remove. It has a pull lug at the top which pops out, and a tab that slides into the door at the bottom. Get out your socket and whip those bolts off. Unplug the mirror from the door loom, and carefully work the mirror off the door from the outside. It needs to slide out quite a long way while staying parallel to the door. Just wiggle it gently as you pull. Make sure the plug doesn't get caught pulling through the door frame. Here is the old mirror unit, and the Partsouq replacement. 91029XA10A (I was doing right, left is 91029XA11A). The mirror glass comes off first (right 91039XA05A, left 91039XA06A). Tilt the mirror manually so that the top is all the way in, and you can see underneath it. Get your flathead and pry the bottom two clips off the white cradle like so (one in each bottom corner). Once the clips have popped off the cradle, manually adjust the mirror so it is all the way in at the bottom which gives you room to swing the mirror glass open like a garage door. The mirror defroster wires will stop you pulling the mirror off yet, so remove them with needle nose pliers or your little pixie fingers. The top of the mirror doesn't actually clip in, it just slides arms under tabs. You must open the mirror up to almost perpendicular to the cradle before it will slide out. This is the main reason you had to adjust the mirror all the way down after popping the bottom clips out. Here is the cradle showing the four mounting positions; clips at the bottom; tabs at the top. Next is the main back cover (right 91054XA00AVW, left 91054XA01AVW - these are the part numbers for black ones as they come painted. The last three letters denote the colour). It is held on with six clipping tabs which you will need a flathead screwdriver or something to help unhook and push through. Be especially careful by the indicator as it's pretty bendy where it forks on either side. I started at the top side of the indicator and worked my way around the top of the cover and down the inside edge. Just unhook and push each tab slightly down so it is coming away from the mirror evenly and you shouldn't break any. This shows the six tabs; top two horizontally orientated, and four lower vertically orientated. There are two philips screws holding the indicator on, and one long tab nearer the inner end of the indicator (right 84401AG042, left 84401AG052). I didn't know about the tab and just pulled it out. Unusually for me it didn't break. As the indicator comes out you will need to unplug it. The wiring is pretty short. When reassembling, remember to plug the indicator in before screwing it in. I didn't and it is super awkward plugging it in from the other side. The last piece is the bottom cover (right 91054XA03B, left 91054XA04B). This is another piece that would be quite easy to break as it has two hidden tabs in the corner and a very narrow bendy neck. Undo the philips screw near where the indicator was screwed in, and push the tabs you can see out from the other side as you did with the main cover. The corner part is just a matter of carefully working your way up the neck lifting a tiny bit at a time until the upper tabs pop. They look like this. And you're done. Reassembling is easy and fast once you have seen how it is put together.
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  4. come on Joker you started the topic
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  5. duh, it is sticky haha, time for bed i think...
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  6. just looking at the pics even a monkey could tell that the closed deck is waaaay stronger, good wee thread, sticky? (always people on here asking what the differences are)
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  7. Mine was open but on inspection found to be oval. Now it is closed.
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  8. Some very weird entries. https://mobilmeanmachine.co.nz?sre=xrxzkYt13DwPw
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  9. Any body have any links to tell the difference between a wrx short block vs sti short block
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