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Hi all I have just configured the forums new SSL certificate so you should be browsing securely!? Forum has also been updated to version below: https://invisioncommunity.com/release-notes/4492-r92/ Please let me know here if any issues arise. I would not be surprised if there are any..

@Niran features a lot.

Kevin is so helpful. Custom CNC heads and added the bronze valve guides. Re-cut valve seats. looks sick, ports hand finished and blended to seats. Haven’t flow tested but visually the dogleg is hugely improved. Arranged shipping etc and even shipped all the kelford stuff up for me in the same crate I had heads in. The price on CNC is so close to what a lot of places charge for stage 2-3 hand porting. https://horsepowerheads.com Waiting for @Niran to appear in the next few months.

Awesome bunch. Super helpful answer all sorts of question related to build and combinations to make most of everything plus have at least Subaru fans there. Cams Valve beehive spring titanium retainers Over sized Inconel valves

PBMS YouTube channel has just put up footage from the 2019 event https://youtu.be/UdNIolIjUa4

Fixed the 'new' cars ECU power problem. Turned out to be a fuse, but because it was missed the first time around things had been pulled and essentially was in a worse state than it began (wasn't myself), so after figuring out exactly what goes where and how things are powered, I traced the issue back to the fuse. Regardless, the wiring of these cars is freaking bonkers are no wonder theres so much un-needed wiring in there. Made a thread about it here. Next thing to do on my list is to do fuel lines in the rear of the car. Going to do -8 feed and -6 return, and while I'm at it, figure out a double pumper solution using stock hanger. Because I can. Also, car photo tax.

My 2 cents... If you're wanting 300hp (225kw) atw.. You will need to do a lot more than chuck an STI ECU, boost increase and some yellow injectors at it.. You are talking bigger turbo Exhaust injectors intercooler ECU uprated fuel pump FPR possibly forged pistons Dyno tune I would say your standard clutch would not like that sort of power so upgrade that too. If your wanting power around the 300hp ATW mark then you really are heading into spending larger amounts of cash on an older WRX. Im not saying dont do it but what i am saying is to think very carefully about your power goals. costs can spiral out of control very quickly.

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Following this major update we have fixed the "Login with Facebook" button. Users who have previously used this function should go to their account settings, click the "Facebook" Button and "Sign out" then relink their accounts to facebook. New users, and accounts not previously linked to FB should be fine to start using it straight away. As above, any dramas... sing out!

Yay it’s a relay stuck to the side of a panel Now to find out the part number and what the other relays I have in that panel are.

So, because this was a PITA for me, I'm sharing the knowledge I've gleaned from this. Anyone else is welcome to fill in the blanks that I've missed. In short the V3/4 I bought had an issue with ECU not starting. Now yes the issue is now fixed, and I found what my problem was. It was a fuse short. Apparently I missed it on the first pass. Somehow. In any case, if you have the same issue as I did, where a car will turn over, dash will light up, but fuel pump won't prime and lastly the ECU won't turn on, don't go start pulling this apart to find the issue. Just check Fuse #11 in the drivers (RHD) side fuse box The bottom plugs in this image are the ones you're looking for. 3 plugs. EJ20K Input 112 Green Signal wire to relay that switches on ECU power on pin 113 (not joking) 113 actual switched ECU power that turns ECU on 114 ECU Circuit power 111 Ignition SW 37 Airflow sensor signal 36 Airflow sensor ground 38 O2 Sensor 33 crank angle sensor + 34 crank angle sensor ground 35 cam angle sensor 40 water temp sensor 39 knock sensor 48 throttle sensor power 46 throttle sensor signal 45 absolute pressure sensor 22 car speed sensor 43 exhaust noise sensor 1 31 Air conditioner SW 23 Starter SW 32 Neutral SW 115 sensor-type ground 105 injector ground 110 power type ground 116 ?? 106 ignition ground 24 intake temperature sensor 28 intercooler spray auto SW 7:44 output 104 injector #1 101 injector #2 102 injector #3 103 injector #4 1 ignition signal 1,2 2 ignition signal 3,4 107 IDC valve open 108 IDC valve close 26 canister purge solenoid 8 ? pressure solenoid 5 atmosphere switch solenoid 17 radiator fan relay 1 25 radiator fan relay 2 4 fuel pump relay 11 aircon relay 3 check engine lamp 12 exhaust sound warning lamp 27 engine rotation signal 20 select monitor send 21 select monitor receive 41 test mode connector 42 reed (lead?) memory connector 30 AT ? 18 AT air amount So if you've checked the fuse and thats fine or you've replaced it and it's still not working, check the relay. The relay is located under the dash, to the right of the go go juice pedal, and is brown. Photo below for context. Now, the wires coming into the relay are 2x black with red stripe down the middle (permanent 12-14v live) 1x Yellow w/ light blue down middle (switched 12-14v to ECU from Relay) 1x Yellow w/ red stripe down middle (switched 12-14v to I assume Fuel pump relay? I don't know.) 1x Green wire (switching signal to turn off/on relay from ECU) 1x Black wire (ground) Now, I have ZERO clue as to why Subaru insisted doing it the way they have. Essentially there is switched power from the ignition, which runs through fuse 11, that goes to the ECU on pin 114, that then turns on the signal wire on 112 so it can switch ON the relay and send power back to the ECU on Pin 113.... Yeah. So there's that 0.o Enjoy your misery ????

Yep mate, super easy. A couple of spanners and/or a socket set is all you need. 14/15mm from memory. A bit of wd40 helps the hangers slide out the rubber. Just remember if you exhaust has never been altered the factory gaskets are likely toast. It would pay to throw some new ones in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to follow up. Got car in workshop. It was the AVCS filters. The filters on both sides had come apart (below the Banjo bolt). Meaning the solenoid couldn't push the valve up and down correctly. Both valves were stuck in one place because there was tiny bits of plastic stuck between the housing and outside of the valve. I took the solenoid out cleaned it thoroughly. More broken bits of filter came out. Tested the solenoid. Put it all back together and boom. Car working!!! So now I need to put in new filters and washers and an oil change and good for another 10000km. Thanks for all the help guys. Still have engine light but I'm leaving the battery off for a while hopefully the ECU will forget!

This is what the OEM v5 brochure had in it. The interiors don't show much grey tbh. Is yours a V-limited or a different special edition?

Please confirm - did you swap an STI ecu into a non-STI? If yes, you need to change AFM and injectors as well at a minimum. You should also swap your turbo to the appropriately matched STI variant (likely a vf28) and run an STI intercooler. You also need to make sure that the ECU you've swapped from was mapped for the same compression ratio as what you're swapping into as there are differences between some WRX and STI builds/years. E.g. some WRX were 9.0:1 yet the STI variant was 8.0:1 (or 8.5:1 - can't remember exact numbers but the point stands). Someone else will be able to elaborate on this more than I can

I actually just disabled it for now. Google days it takes 6 weeks for a team to manually review the submission? Whole thing seemed a bit too serious for what we are doing lol. If they approve it one day I'll reactivate, if not nothing lost?

Another great place that’s helps answer curly questions and doesn’t just push their own stuff. I spoke to James for way too long and learned heaps. Quoted everything up fast with options. https://jmms.co.nz/pages/contact-us

Have you had all the boot lining off to see what is working and what isn't? Could the cable at the handle end have popped off? Usually it's the wiring as it travels between the body and the boot gets severed eventually with these models which is probably your issue NTYCME. Pull the rubber boots up and you might find a few damaged wires.

note Fig 183 which covers some of those relays is under automatic transmission even if you have manual transmission.

reminded me of the kid who went off-roading in an m3. https://youtu.be/MZVrnd9V7sk

I'm really keen on figuring out how to facelift the 96 impreza interior, I really like the later models. I know it's pretty involved since you need to weld mounts for the dash and the speedo is electric, but would be well worth it

Snowballs .gif! Brakes : 6 Speed : body kit : interior and Paint @BLAZD

Starter not playing ball. Didn't try the bridge the terminals thing until after pulling it out but think it was the switch stuck. After dissasembling the whole thing and putting it back together I tried bridging the main feed in to the feed for the motor itself which spun up the starter motor while bypassing the solenoid. Then tried again with the key and it worked like a charm. Still slightly concerned that it'll happen again though.

Minor like a broken back Either the video doesn't show something, or the guy didn't even really turn in, or he's running the worst tires in the world, wtf. That corner looked trivial at the speed he was going.

😁 https://www.thedrive.com/news/31783/this-subaru-f-u-c-k-s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRWQ4_Gnnjw

Very easy, just use some crc or wd40 on the hangers to help remove and reinstall.

Heh heh, called it! I didn't bother with new filters in the end. Glad it sorted your issue.

It always pays to check the simple stuff... I had the gauge plugged into metre output 1 on the gauge controller and turns out it needed to be in metre output 2. All working as it should now.

Get an Outback XT and lift it like Gotasuby’s one, gives you the nicer facelift Legacy interior with some form of offroad ability.

Thanks! I've gotten in touch with Corgiwerx and have a set of both linkage and pivot bushings on the way. Can't recommend the guy enough so far, fast and easy to deal with and for a very reasonable price. Will update once they're installed.

Devil's advocate? Putting in a G4+ and getting it tuned won't see any change from about $2500. Lot of money to throw at a car that literally won't make it any faster than a boost tap would. Get a VF23/24 (or even a VF30) and a STI ECU and set of yellows as above. About the best you're going to get out of it; you're so limited by about 20 different things that make a G4+ not worth the investment unless you have big big plans down the road.

if you ordered your calendar, its in the post! We still have stock, so get you orders in and we will get them out to you!

fixed also : she's come a long way Baby! (paste your IG link & this new forums software displays the post)

Could be a boost leak, or maybe vacuum - I'd suggest checking all boost and vacuum lines especially around intake manifold and intercooler.. You could have a bad hose that has a tiny split in it. The line to the gauge is an often overlooked culprit too.

Install Link ecu and get dyno tune. Best mod for classics. Your old mans type R has close ratio gearbox and short diff ratios so you wont beat him in a drag. Only chance is to beat him with top speed but that needs to be on track for obvious reasons..👍

https://drivetribe.com/p/subaru-driver-runs-wide-hitting-VkyR0yvsRNWELgctoIzLog?iid=cOw4cuWaRqaDC6M_tQj7Tg

it's just an oil filter... you can put whatever size you want on.