RSB

^^ By BH has eaten two primary turbos (first was gone when i got it, second had a small amount of whine when i put it on, and lasted a week before i took it off the road again) I have checked teh flow by cracking the banjo bolt to turbo + starting the car, and there's definately oil to turbo. My question is, how do i know there's enough? Or does the banjo filter only become an issue with factory turbos when truly gunked up and completely impeding flow? The block side banjo sits behind the cambelt cover for the primary turbo, and getting it out means removing cam cover, cam gear and backing plate. I'm keen to avoid doing this if i can. The replacement turbo inspected well + had no play, is it possible it was still rooted?

just buy a new one. they're cheap as even from the stealer. Seeing as you have the manifold off, it's the perfect time to do it, better that than unplug it, put the mani back on, and then find yourself in code 22 hell.

just to backtrack a wee bit, autosol/mothers aluminium polish is the shiz on yellow/cloudy headlights. Might save some folk making a special purchase to tidy up their front end.

I have the same issue. As i have one other cluster issue (Tip tronic gear indicator frequently shows the wrong gear) I'm going to start by trying a spare alternator that I have, as a failing alternator caused some cluster faults in a previous car. I'm guessing it's likely that its probably the fuel level sender thats faulty, but i thought i'd start with something easily eliminated. Failing that it could be the cluster itself.

Seems to be, hard to say really though as i only did a few hundred kms in it before pulling it off the road. Seat of pants meter tells me its quite a bit stronger on boost, and boost is more reliable. all thats left to do is track down a differential pressure sensor and engine cover, trans drain/fill, second oil and filter change and a bit of a paint tidy up. Will be happy then lol.

Got the car running about a week or so ago after a few drama's with parts, However i was plagued by an intermittant code 66, limp mode, and poor shifting from the trans (which was fine pre-op). Realised i hadnt put the turbo heatshield back on, and began to wonder if i had cooked the trans fluid, so did a drain and fill of 4l of dextron 3 and low and behold, after 150km of driving the trans was sweet. Will do another drain and fill this weekend to dilute the old fluid thats still in there. Managed to track the code 66, boost cut and limp mode down to a broken nipple on the differential pressure sensor. BD/BG use exactly the same part, so swiped the one from my RSB for testing purposes. Car runs sweet as a nut now. Stoked.

GC8/GF8, BD/BG, BH/BE have all had smaller turbos in versions with an auto transmission. iirc, this is because the better spool characteristics of the smaller turbos assist in driveability of 4/5eat equipped vehicles. TD05 + manual Prova ecu transformed my auto GF8, and my manual BD shames the Auto BH.

take pics?

^^ ryco are garbage. Have done Oil+OEM filter every 8-12k for the last 120k in my BD, and the motor is solid as a rock.

OEM Subaru panel filter + Factory airbox + Snorklectomy is more than acceptable IMO.

Will be a hybrid utilising the VF13 compressor cover most likely. Have a couple of spare secondarys if your keen. VF19 from a BD5 and a VF27 from a BH5. Based in wellington.

Quick question. Can an ECU from a manual BH be used in a failtronic BH, or are they like BG's, where the ECU has a different plug configuration on Auto + Manual models? My understanding is that they run a TCU, so a manual ecu should in theory work provided the plug config is the same? I once had an Auto 1st gen WRX with a TD05 + Prova Manual ECU. It was a significant upgrade over the factory TD04 and Auto ECU. Just wondering if I can do something similar here. My understanding is that the power differences between EJ206 and EJ208 is down to the different primarys, and ECU.

IMO, its luck of the draw. My RSB has been the most reliable car I have owned. Then again I bought with 93k and fsh from new. I've done 120k in it and had only an alternator and radiator fail. Had Cambelt and accessories, seals, clutch, gearbox fluid, and diff fluid done between 100 and 120k. however, I also have a gtb with a blown primary turbo, split induction pipe and cracked knock sensor housing. This car has 146k, history unknown. Sadly, most for sale will fall into the history unknown camp.

^^ sound advice.

sorted. is from a BG. Is a slightly smaller diameter throughout too.

sooooo, update. Finally received turbo and intake pipe, and i've been sent a secondary (VF27), not the primary VF26 as requested. Have not had any response from emails yet, so am looking for the correct items locally. will be seeking refund when i eventually track the seller down. also intake pipe is different? The one i have been sent is near identical Except there appears to be a hose connection on the afm side of the intake pipe? I'm presuming this is what it should be, as the pipe i have been sent has a hole the size of an old 20cent piece. looks to me like it left the factory with a pipe there. don't think it can be effictively plugged without plastic welding. Overall not happy. Rant aside, I have flushed the brake fluid and inspected/fixed the driverside headlight which had condensation issues. Looks like someone has had them apart before to remove the orange lens in the indicator housings. So i baked it carefully in the oven, pulled the lense off and let it all dry out in the sun. I then re-baked the headlamp to soften the sealant and pressed the lense back in to the housing. Sealed it with silicone for good measure and it is not condensating any more, so thats a win. Hole in pipe as per pic below. anyone know the story here?

The main problem with parallel is that you are still limited by the turbos available for the application. There's much more scope for turbo upgrades with a ST. However you can get creative with TD04 CHRA's and early TT VF series compressor housings etc, which is cool but more work than a single conversion.

^^ Teh aussies seem to be able to run 2.5" (primary) and 3" (secondary) downpipes on their TT's with no dramas. Apparantly the ECV has a lot of scope for porting, which drastically improves secondary spool up, iirc. Not sure how the link handles the TT system? Would def go ST if going to the expense of a standalone ECU.

Quick question, can anyone tell me how easy is it to get the block side banjo bolt for the primary Turbo on a TT? Will have a look tonight, but currently have the inlet manifold and Primary off, so hoping it should be easy enough to get to? I think it would be prudent to check this as the primary turbo has failed bearings. cheers

Frontmount on a TT = Pointless.

I get 450 to 500 a tank mix of highway and peak hour traffic...

My '98 RSB is one of the most reliable cars i have ever owned. Not long after getting it the alternater failed, then 100,000km later, the radiator split a tank. It had two new turbos @ 145km for fun, not because they were failed. The motor and driveline are extremely strong. Its now a 209km EJ20R with no piston slap, lifter noise or other knocks. It gets new oil + filter every 10km. It gets mostly long runs at highway speeds, its happy with this All other items done have been general maintenence items: Rocker cover seals, mainshaft seals, cambelt/waterpump/tensioners, clutch, Brake pads, discs, fluids, wheel bearings. You should factor the cost of all these into your ownership if you intend on keeping for some time, particuarly if there is no record of it being done. My BH GTB on the other hand blew a turbo within a day of owning it, and has piston slap when cold. havent been able to drive it enough yet to discover any other issues.

Not today, but this week.. BH: Removed primary turbo, removed inlet manifold. Fixed cupholder. BD: Swore at cupholder.

have the manifold off now. Will put the turbo on first when it arrives i think. more room to move/can see oil return etc. Not looking forward to plumbing the intake manifold though!

^^ Turbo is quite easy to get out on these. Managed to get this one off without even dropping the DP. Have taken some pics and can attempt to put together a diy if you want. Though if memory serves me correctly, oil return line is a pig to get back on when putting new turbo in.