evlRA

fully locked. Drag cars run locked (welded) center diffs and locked front diffs and rear LSD's

SLICKS - will get you the best time - are not street legal so you will need to trailer your car there - if powered by a 5speed it will most definitly BREAK, puts a lot of strain on drivetrain SEMI SLICKS - will get you a better time over street tyres but not as good as slicks - some are street legal so you can drive your car there and back etc. - if running a 5speed there is more chance it will break STREET TYRES - probably the best for low powered cars as they wont bog on take off - are street legal - less strain on gearbox, clutch, and everything else in the drivetrain DCCD - run with center diff LOCKED for best times ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION - remove all camber for best times TYRE PRESSURE - generally quite low often best to ask other people at the track as it depends on weather etc.

Hey i need to get my screamer pipe plumbed into my exhaust.. Can anyone suggest a place in Hamilton that does this kind of work? Thanks!

I would modify a standard subaru in this order: sparco lip air filter exhaust adjustable suspension suspension adjustments i.e sway bars etc. race rims with good rubber good fluid, pads, disks link ECU, injectors, fuel pump and tune after that things just get expensive and complicated

i think this thing has alot more potential to run faster times.. i mean its 500kw atw, fully stripped and lightened, purpose built dragster

just 1 of them which doesnt matter. this pushes 320kw with 1 fan and no problems, SILNCR pushes 400kw with 1 fan and no problems so its allllgooood.

this modification is so much easier than everybody thinks, you can do it for quite cheap aswell. with the alternator.. cut and grind off the top of the steel bracket so that the alternator can flip over and sit hard up against its own bracket. done. with the intake manifold.. remove and take to engineer and get him to cut and reweld the throttle body mount on the other side. done. with the tensioner.. grab a piece of steel strap (approx 4mm thick) from an metal place, grab a cam belt pulley from an old car at pick-a-part, drill a hole in 1 end and pivot off the alternators bolt, drill another hole at the other end and use a nut and bolt to hold the tensioner in place using the power steering bracket. drill a hole in the middle and bolt the cam belt pulley in place, get a measuring tape and work out what size belt you need and your done. finally with the intercooler piping.. grab a few pieces of pipe (90's, 180's, straights, 45's) and play with them untill you get them all lined up (use masking tape to act as a temporary weld) once satisfied draw lines so you know the angles of the welds and take to engineer to weld up. I did my reversed manifold set-up for no more than $100

if you drill the bolt holes in the intake manifold out to a larger size it will fit fine

Are you talking about when you run the intercooler pipes under the headlights? I run an extremely modified and extremely unsafe bumper bar. Sadly when running your piping like this you have no choice!

no doubt there are some fast evos around especially the early 123 models, i swear there are more of them are running gt3540's than there are running stock. my mates one i was talking about has had over 80k pumped into it, magnus engine build 2.4L running a gt42r garrett 286deg cams 5speed dog box and locked front and centre diffs with a rear lsd. Made 440kw @ 22psi on pump gas and 570kw @ 35psi on c16 oh yer and the limiter is set at 10,000rpm

How much power you making loren? i know what you mean about keeping up with the evos.. my mate has a 440kw evo2 RS and that thing is death on wheels haha

Yep its referred to as a roll bar or a half cage. Nowhere near the strength of a full weld in. Yours is nice what is the car intended for? I plan to go with a full weld in after i upgrade brakes and suspension for the track and move the focus away from strip/street to track/hilclimb

OK so i was working on my car today and thought id throw up some photos of my cage which is bolt in and is certified and is inspected and enables me to run a 10 second quarter mile at the drag-strip without getting banned. I found the roll cage added stiffness to the rear of the chassis however this was just a side effect and was not the reason behind the cage. Basically the inspector checks that the cage is: - Positioned behind the front seats (out of the way of your body) - Rear seats are removed and the car is essentially a 2 seater - there are no dangerous bars or flanges or anything in front of the seats - There is a horizontal bar - The back bars are straight with no bends - There are steel backing plates on the other side of the mountings and appropriate nuts and bolts - The roll cage is padded with appropriate padding I have added some pics.. Hopefully this adds to some clubsubers knowledge

nothing like a clubsub debate

Just the cage, had it out the other week to put padding on it and took the beast for a blat through the country side and its quite noticeable.

like i said my bolt in rear cage added stiffness to my chassis and i knew this because of first hand experience. Some people on here think their imagination is more credible than first hand experience.

this thing is CRAZY!

My cucso bolt in half cage Definitely stiffened up the chassis, how could it not

hey i need to get some small steel backing plates Approx: 2mm thick 100mm wide x 100 long i have no idea where to go? i am in Auckland anybody have some sugestions?

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,1662.15.html

I have a 4 point cusco bolt in half cage It is low volume certified and passes wofs etc. It also allows me to run 10seccond passes at meremere Only reasons i have the bolt in half cage: 1). Light 2). Easy to remove and put back in etc. (10-20mins) 3). Allows me to run 10seccond passes without being banned from the track

I think im just going to cut my plugs off and get a set of the late model ones and wire them in

Hey i have a 1995 wrx sti ra which had grey tops factory standard, now i have Sard 880's and the injector plugs appear to be different, but only slightly. Does anyone know if injector plugs change in the later models? Thanks

dude how many race cars do you see running factory cast extractors? tuned length stainless steel with welded slip joins will be much better, if you can source some OBX racing extractors you wont regret it. They run a smaller internal diameter which creates air speed and spools the turbo better, they are also known to be 'un-crackable'. With that turbo you have id strongly recommend these aswell as the shortest intercooler piping route as possible because on a 2.0L with stock heads and cams she will be laggy

when you say gt30 do you mean gt3071, gt3076 or gt3082? or another gt30? Stock extractors will be fine BUT you will get more power, more torque and more response with tuned length ones..