Munkvy

new engine! Basically need a running block and heads, preferably with cambelt on etc. Dont need any manifolds or ancilliaries. And the engine went pop due to a cylinder filling with fuel, appears to have killed an injector seal.

Now Im wondering if I will have to tow mine to this. I just popped the 2nd engine on the dyno

$100 for a can isnt so bad - how bigs a can? 500ml of Elf HTX115 (as used in F1) is $48.

If you really want a good STi - you cant really get better than this for value for money: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/auction-225078687.htm I would easily trade in both my Legacys to get it, but sadly I couldnt afford to come up with the remaining price difference. And Im not sure I could afford to repair it when I biffed it.

Push it! Or arrange for the meet to be at the bottom of the hill nearest to your house...?

Don't forget; +50% for oil - 20% power And no aftermarket parts available. Oh and its even HARDER to change the plugs than on a 4 But on the plus side, it does sound horny....

BC5/BF5 Legacys. The first generation of Legacy.

Koom - if you do make a few of these up I would be very interested in one.

I should be in. Have to double check the calendar. Pretty flexible about where, would prefer when to be in the morning. As football in the afternoon normally.

stolen straight from the MSNZ Manual (Book 34, Schedule A, 4.6 Fire Extinguishers): (4) Mounting: Extinguishers shall be installed in accordance with the following: (a) A retaining system incorporating quick release metal fastenings/straps, or material of equivalent strength (ie Kevlar), secured to the structure of the vehicle by a minimum of two 6mm bolts with panel washers and locknuts. (b) Hand held extinguishers shall be positioned within easy reach of the occupant/s while normally seated (not mandatory for single seaters) I use washers top and bottom and nyloc nuts - about $2-3 for everything at Bunnings? I would suggest using something larger - (ie 8mm bolts) so there is no possibility of a scrutineer being unsure your bolts are big enough. Using the seat bolts as mounts is a good idea, as they are plenty strong enough and saves drilling holes in your car. I wouldnt personally waste the money buying a mount, just drill two holes in a piece of metal like shown in one of the first posts.

Your best bet is to get some factory GTB or RSB ones from the same model ie a BG5. But as you say, there isnt many around that arent already stuffed! You may find some on trademe, but they generally arent cheap! I would suggest you may want to look into getting the ones you have rebuilt, as that will last quite a long time. Alternatively, WRX bits will fit in the front end. I switched to STi RA front struts in my BG5 GTB, bolted straight in.

No need for a cage... Can use harness with either factory or aftermarket seat too.

You can have a 4+ point harness in a car thats used on the road, however you need to have a MSNZ Authority Card to do so. To get the Authority Card you need to be a member of a MSNZ Affiliated Car Club and hold a Clubsport or higher MSNZ license. Then you can apply for the Authority Card and you will need to get an A grade scrutineer to examine your install to make sure its all ok. So its $30-60 Club membership, $65 Clubsport license and from memory $60 for the Authority Card. And 5mins getting it examined. However a 5-6 point is a pain to get in and out of in a road car. So much easier to just swap them over when you go to the track.

I agree, Oil is oil. Stick with a brand you trust based on expert advice and change it regularly. I personally use Elf 10w40 Competition SM - mainly as apparently thats what STi Japan use as well as a number of the cars in the Production Race Series here in NZ. Its surived track and gravel in both my Legacys fine.

Me - BG5 GTB Legacy 1.27 at Manfield today. With brakes on fire

Richard was the mechanic I dealt with for my rebuild. He was excellent to deal with, knew his stuff and no BS. No idea if he is still there or if he was the manager too.

Ohh dear. Things have changed.

I admit its been a wee while since I was in there. But last time I was, Richard was still there and he knows his stuff. Couldnt comment on the other employees.

MacLennan's http://www.mapc.co.nz/ Certainly not the cheapest, but they do know subbies through and through.

The answers depend on quite a few different factors, but I dont have time to write out some answers just yet. I will write something after work tonight if I have time.

Absolutely right. I will amend the original post.

As a result of a few people mentioning having difficulty getting through all the guff on the MSNZ site and understanding the rules, I have written out the following to help guide people. I am speaking from personal experience as both a MSNZ licensed Scrutineer and as someone who owns and competes in his own caged car. I have tried to make this as easy to read as possible, but expect that I will manage to confuse people. Feel free to PM me if your not sure about anything etc. Step One - Club membership and Clubsport License Your first step to getting through the process is to join an MSNZ affiliated car club in your area, this then allows you to apply for a Clubsport license - which allows you to attend most low level motorsport events (Track days, hillclimbs, sprints, autocrosses, motorkhanas etc). Without club membership you cannot get a Clubsport license or attend events - as being a member of an affiliated club is checked when you enter most events. You need the Clubsport license to be able to compete, but also to allow you to get an Authority Card to be able to drive the car on the road (more on Authority Cards later). MSNZ affiliated car clubs are all over NZ and you can find a list of them here: http://www.motorsport.org.nz/Contacts/memberclubs.pdf From there your best bet is to go along to a club night and meet some of the people and then join the club. Step Two - getting the cage and Rollcage Homologation Once you have that sorted you can enter events, but that doesnt help you get a cage and get it legal. With the cage, the first step is to talk to the builder, find out price, what they can do and how long it will take. Also, make sure they will do the MSNZ paperwork for you. This is the "Rollcage Homologation" form (http://www.motorsport.org.nz/Pdf/T004.pdf). Ideally if you can, get them to take the pictures of the cage and attach them with the form. Most cage builders have no issue doing the paperwork, as it basically describes the structure and confirms that the person who built it knows what they are doing. Then when you get the car back from the cage builder, you will have the form filled out with the details of the weld etc as well as the pictures. Some cage builders wont want to waste time doing pictures, so you may have to do this yourself. However you can provide MSNZ a CD with photos, you dont have to provide actual photos on photo paper etc. The details of what pictures to take (ie of what joins/bars) are in the form. The most important thing to remember however is DO NOT PAINT THE CAGE YET! You have to leave it bare so MSNZ can look at it to make sure its done properly. Step Three - Logbook At the same time as getting the car back, you want to fill out the "Application for Vehicle Logbook" (http://www.motorsport.org.nz/Pdf/T004.pdf) this form basically gives you a record of the cars competition history, as well as when it has been scrutineered - think of it as similar to a service history and receipts, it outlines whats happened to the car and when. And most importantly - its where the details of your rollcage go after MSNZ homologate it - so you can prove to the world your cage is legal. I would suggest sending this form in at the same time as your rollcage homologation paperwork - so it all gets sorted at the same time. Provided MSNZ are happy with the pictures of the cage - you will then get a letter in the mail with your logbook, your homolgation sticker (blue sticker you put on the cage with the homologation number) and a letter from MSNZ about it all. At this stage you can paint the cage. Provided the guy doing your cage does them for a living, you should have no issue reaching this point as MSNZ will recognise his work and should have no problems with the pictures you have taken. Step Four - competing and the Authority Card Now this means your car is safe to compete in at events. So in you can start going to events. However, there is a couple of caveats. First you are going to get scrutineered at your first event with the cage installed - this is just to make sure everything is setup correctly in the car. Its for your own benefit. Now that you have the cage, you also have to have fixed back seats (they dont have to be FIA approved unless you have removed the factory occupant restraint system - ie airbags) and a minimum of 4 point harnesses. I would recommend getting a 6 point (and always camlock, not lever lock) as they are very cheap these days and worth the extra money! The other thing is you need to cover the parts of the rollcage that you could hit your head on with rollcage padding. This is cheap and worth getting more than you need, as it will scuff over time as you use the car. Basically you need to pad the side intrusion bar and the bars that go in front and to the side of your head. If the car previously had airbags, these must be removed too and a sticker put on the car where it is visible to driver and any passenger, to warn users that there is no longer a "manufacturer fitted occupant restraint device". Provided you have done all of the above, you should have no issues with scrutineering and competing at events. However, you will also need a fire extinguisher fitted for most events, so worth doing this at the same time (basic rule for extinguishers is within reach of user from drivers seat, 900g minimum weight and secured with metal bracket using minimum of 2x 6mm bolts with washers and lock nuts). However... And there is always a however! This will not allow you to drive the car on the road! To do that, you need to complete an "Authority Card Application Form" (http://www.motorsport.org.nz/Pdf/T002.pdf). This form allows you to get certain Motorsport things legal for on the road, ie it covers things that a Cert and Wof dont. Specifically: Full Harness belts (ie 4 point or higher) Rollcage Hydraulic Handbrake Braided brake lines Plastic glazing (ie Lexan windows) Competition seats (FIA approved ones only) Removal of occupant protection system (removal of airbags) Obviously with the cage, you are going to need this to allow you to drive the car on the road with the cage and harnesses. This you have to do last, as you have to send your logbook in with it. Step Five - Getting the car examined for Authority Card This is the part where its not just fill out a form. You also need to get an "A Grade Scrutineer" to examine the car. The car club you joined should be able to tell you who to talk to do this, as there will normally be someone in the club who can, or they can tell you who to see. This shouldnt cost anything either. The A Grade Scrutineer will examine your car to make sure the cage is good, the padding is in the right places, the seats and belts are installed correctly etc. Basically a once over to make sure you have done it right. They will then sign the application and you can send it in. Once MSNZ process this they will send you out a card with the details of the cage, harnesses etc printed on it. You need to keep this with the car, as police or WOF people can ask to sight it at any time - this basically verifies your car is safe to be on the road with these Motorsport specific mods. Once you have this, you are free and legal and should not have any problems getting WOFs (well not in relation to the cage anyway!). To summarize the process: Join MSNZ affiliated car club Get Clubsport License Get rollcage and get builder to fill out paperwork Fill out logbook application and send in with homologation paperwork Pad cage, fit seats and harnesses, paint cage and apply homologation sticker to cage Complete Authority Card application and have car checked by MSNZ A Grade Scrutineer Start entering events - remembering car will be scrutineered at first event So thats the process in a nutshell. Any questions dont hesitate to ask me. I will also outline some general tips below that will help with the process and generally making people happy. Delivering car to the builder Take everything possible out, this includes all interior trim where cage will go, including dashboard, roof lining, seats, seat belts. Basically everything possible - otherwise they will charge you to do it themselves. Cage design Although there are many options in design and your free to do what you like, remember to get the builder to include a harness bar (ideally at an angle of 45 degrees or less from the seat) so you have somewhere to mount your harness to. Cage pictures Take more than you need, too many is much better for MSNZ than too few, otherwise you might find you get a letter or call asking for more details DONT PAINT YOUR CAGE UNTIL YOU GET YOUR CAGE HOMOLOGATION BACK FROM MSNZ Otherwise you might have to strip that paint off to take more pictures Rollcage padding Fit more than you need, too much is better than too little! Cage pictures (again) If you provide MSNZ the pictures of the cage on CD they will actually print them out and put them in your logbook as part of the homologation paperwork, this makes it easier for a scrutineer to compare it to your car. Harnesses Although lever latch harnesses are very cheap, its always worth spending the little bit extra and getting a cam lock one - not only are they quicker to do up, but you can get out of them when there is pressure on them (ie you flip the car and are hanging upside down in the harness), as you cant undo a lever lock latch if there is a persons weight on them. Harnesses (again) While a 4 point harness is technically sufficient, getting a 6 point is preferable as it will stop submarineing - where in an accident you slip down and under the belts around your waist. A 6 point is preferable over a 5 point as it more evenly distributes the weight between two points rather than one. Logbook You can get this before you have a cage, you can get it for any car thats used in competition (so that could be your daily driver) and it means that when you compete you are only scrutineered every three events, whereas without a logbook you get checked every event. Once you have a cage however the logbook is compulsory. Cage padding (again) When you put your padding in, examine how you get in and out of the car and where your body drags - as you will find you will quickly scuff the padding in that area, so its worth putting some tape over those parts of the padding to protect it. Competition seats and FIA approval Competition seats does not mean all seats, only seats that have been approved by the FIA are classed as competition seats, so if you dont have FIA approved seats they wont get put on the Authority Card application, which is not an issue. However whatever seats you use they must have a fixed back, no ability to recline. Seat mounting You can use the factory mount points for your seats, and in most cases seats can be fitted this way using adapting rails - which the seat manufacturer can provide you. However, if you have the ability to move the seat forwards and backwards (ie horizontally - not rake), you must have double locking rails - ie both sides have a locking mechanism, not just one. This is to reduce the chance of the seat moving in an accident. Thanks, Vivian

Sounds good to me... Who else is keen? Or is everyone having car problems?

In the meantime - is anyone interested in a Wellington meet in the next week or two...?

Its originally from a Type R - V3/4 and had DCCD. He has taken it out, rebuilt it with apparently wider gears - so in theory provided they are done properly by someone that knows what he is doing it should be stronger than factory, factory having been an STi. So yes, should be stronger. It is a 4.44 ratio, so make sure this matches your car (I think it will as all listings I can find for 98 STi's show 4.44). The ratios would be probably the same as what you have or close to. The ratios arent as short as V1/2/3/4 RA boxes, but theres not a huge amount in it.