log1call

Then....

To test if it's the hose or back nearer the master cylinder.... pump the brakes and check the wheel is locked, loosen the coupling where the steel pipe meets the top/body end of the hose till fluid comes out, see if the wheel is free. If the wheel isn't free then, then loosen the bleed nipple and if the wheel comes free then it is definatly the rubber hose. Take the hose off and try blowing through it with your mouth... it will be blocked. If loosening the top of the rubber hose did free the wheel then there is a blockage nearer the master cylinder, not in the rubber hose, so trace the pipe back loosening every join in turn testing which ones let the wheel free and which ones don't. You will need to re-jam the brakes between tries. If it's the rubber hose get a new one and fit it then bleed the brakes. It's fairly common for brakes to drag a little when you test them with your hand. The pistons get pushed out by hundreds of pounds of pressure and as they move they distort the rubber O-ring seal, the only thing that makes the piston return is the rubber returning to it's normal shape and it only moves a fraction of a mill, so a bit of rubbing is normal. Once you drive the car the tiny bit of play in the wheel bearings will push the pads and cylinder back a fraction further. .

Benniepak... What have you found?

Might pay to recount those flashes. There are other codes close. there are codes with 12 and some with 14, but none I know that is 1214.

http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wiring.html

There is a simple way to test O2 sensors using a voltmeter you know guys. The O2 sensors don't crap out very often, mostly the code is set because the ecu is having trouble adjusting the mixture far enough to get the O2's readings within range. Things like dirty air-cleaners, blocked fuel filters, leaky injctors can all set a O2 code. Connecting to a laptop gives a lot of live data, that is, you can log the exact readings that the ecu is getting at every few milliseconds to a spreadsheet, then later you can sit down and interperate what was happening at your leisure. I have just put a item about connecting to a laptop in the technical DIY section if anyone is interested. The write up makes it sound complicated, but it isn't really.

There is a new article in the technical DIY section about how to connect laptops.

Right, here is the simplest way to connect a laptop to an OBD1 subaru, including the early models that had a OBD2 plug but weren't actually OBD2... First thing you need is a FTDI ttl to usb lead. You want the one shown here... http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R.htm It has to be a five volt one so make sure it doesn't have 3v3 on the end of it's name. Best place at the moment to get them in N.Z.is, from Aussie... http://www.dontronics-shop.com/ftdi-usb-to-serial-ttl-level-5v-converter-cable.html They are $44.00 N.Z. dollars delivered to your door. Put it on the credit card and it will be here in about four days. Get the lead, strip three wires, black is going to go to earth(pin nine), yellow is for pin two and orange is for pin three. Don't connect it to the car yet. If you are using the OBD2 plug on the first of the OBD2 models then black goes to pin four or five, yellow goes to pin twelve and orange goes to pin thirteen. Have a look here if you are not sure which plug or pin is which... http://www.vwrx.com/index.php?pg=selectmonitor. Download the software while you are there. You can get a radio adaptor which will plug into the ssm plug on the car from an auto-electrical or audio shop but just stripping the wires and soldering the ends stiff will do the job, the car has female sockets so it's easy to shove anything in there really. Now you need to download the drivers for the ftdi chip from the ftdi site and install them. There are instruction at the ftdi site for installing the drivers. Plug your new cable into your laptop and go into the controlpanel/system/hardware and check that the adaptor has shown up and which number that usb to serial adaptor is connected to. Record the number because you need to tell the software which port to use. We are going to use the "ssm dump" part of this software to check it goes... http://www.vwrx.com/index.php?pg=selectmonitor When you get the software there will be three parts to it. One is a text configuration file and in it, it has which port number to use. Open the ssm text file and read through it. The comport is 2 by default but just change the number where it says "comport=2" to the number you recordered earlier. When you run the dump part of the program it will get you an ecu identifying number... We hope! The ssm dump tool is for testing and finding ecu addresses. If you make a connection you will get a ecu number, like 7431XX or something. So... (this is getting exciting), plug the usb in and connect the wires/plug to the car. Turn the key on(but don't start the car) and start the "ssm dump" program. If you get 474849 it is the request being sent to the ecu being echoed back to your laptop because there is a setting wrong in your port setting. If you get "Null", you don't have a connection. Check the wires and that the key is on. Once you have the ecu's identification number it will either connect straight up to the car with the ssm, or, you might have to rename one of the other ecu identities to your number in the text configuration file that comes with the software. Once you get an ecu identifying number in the dump tool then see if there is a definition file ecu number the same or similar. If your number is in the list then you can run the ssm program and you will start logging data straight away. If your number isn't in the list we need to find a model that will work for your car. This may help you choose a likely model... 1st character is always "7" on older cars. 2nd character is year rom was produced "0" for 1990, "2" for 1992, "3" for 1993, "4 for 1994" etc. 3rd and 4th characters seem to specify the car and engine type. For example: (25=SVX), (31,32,36,39=Legacy),(3F, 40=Impreza) Probably lots of others too. 5th character is market. "1" for JDM. "2" for USA. "3" for Europe. I guess "4" might be USSR. 6th character is ROM revision I think. Try 1,2 or 3. You could try putting a range of addresses from the likely file into the dump and see if the figures returned make sense, ie. the revs or battery voltage are right. So if your car's ecu number was near 744014 you would choose to log from 1332 to 1336 say, to read the battery voltage. You tell it the numbers to log by typing into the top of the dump program where it has two, four digit fields. You wont get all the data fields in one dump so choose something simple to test. Revs are good. Just enter a narrow range so you get a lot of readings in a few minutes. If you find a likely candidate, copy the likely part of the definition file to the bottom of the config file and edit the ecu number in it to your number then save the changes. Now try reading the car using the ssm tool, not the dump. Hopefull all the data will be right, but we can test it is by running the motor and doing things to the motor.. disconnect an injector lead and the a/f will change and so will the IPW and O2 for instance. If you like that software, you will really like the evoscan software, it's heaps faster, does more cars, more makes, more parameters. It's the best software availiable at the moment. Have a look here.. http://www.limitless.co.nz/ I have added a few more models to the evoscan setup, if your ecu number isn't in the vwrx config file we can put some of the ones I have in or make you a new one.

Good for you. Knowledge is power.

Ok GF8M8, I have put a couple of abs articles here... http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public?uc=2 Ones about the systems used on subarus and the other is about bleeding them. Download then and have a read.

As you say Keltic, it takes a bit of pressure to lock the brakes, hundreds of pounds of pressure in fact, and there is nothing but a bit of distorted rubber to force it back the other way again. I think it's imminently logical... but I would! Apart from the theory involved, I have seen it heaps of times in my career as a mechanic. And, if the theory and the experiance isn't enough to convince you it's a good line of investigation to start with... It's the simplest thing to try and it doesn't cost anything but a few minutes of time and a bit of brake fluid.

Ok, the brake hose could have a flap of rubber loose inside it which may have been moved during a brake bleed and is now blocking it, or, there could be a bit of crud stuck in the return port of the master cylinder, once again caused by the bleeding. If it's a blocked return hole in the master cylinder then the right rear and left front should both be sticking on,(I think, maybe, depends on the system). Easiest thing though, is to loosen the left front bleed nipple and see if it releases the brakes. If it does take the hose off and try blowing through it. Have a beer handy to remove the brake fluid from the mouth.

I dont mean to question your claim that you "know a bit about brakes", if in fact it is a claim, not an admission, but... The pedal going to the floor is not a sure sign the master cylinder is bad. Air in the system could cause that as could leaks. The original problem was one front brake sticking on. As I understand it, from this thread, the pedal going to the floor has developed since he has worked on the brakes. Since it was only one front brake I think we can rule out master cylinder being the cause. I think he needs to fix the original problem then address the new problem if it hasn't been cured in the process of fixing the first fault. Jumping to conclusions, especially illogical conclusions, which involve replacing parts is stupid in my opinion. Just an opinion though.

That sounds like a different problem, but they may be related. My suspicion is that your front brake hose has swollen up inside. When you push eight hundred pounds of pressure through it with the pedal it puts the brakes on, but there isn't enough pressure to return the fluid when you let the brakes off. The other problem sounds like master cylinder seals. If you torn the engine off then push very very slowly and gently on the pedal you may find it goes to the floor, but, if you stamp on the pedal suddenly and keep a bit of pressure on the pedal it might stay hard. If it does do that it's because the cup seals splay out under pressure, especialy sudden pressure, but with a gentle push they slide down the cylinder letting the fluid creep past the worn seal. The swollen hose is probably caused by contamination, and the same contamination may have buggered your master cylinder. If the bleed nipple being loosened fixes the locked brakes, change the hose then try bleeding the system before condemming the master cylinder though.

So have you tried loosening the bleed nipple?

There are a couple of things I notice looking at those photos. First off, are some of those stud holes elongated? Second thing is that there are grey marks on the disk surface in places, could be grease marks or something. Did you bed the brakes in after installing the new bits? It could have been grabbing and loosening as it hit those grey marks perhaps. Bedding in the brakes may have evened things out perhaps.

On a jack, jam the brakes on, try turning the wheel to check the brakes are staying on, release the bleed nipple and see if it frees the brakes. If it does free up when you release the brake pressure... change the hose.

I think the correct check will be to test/measure resistance in the coil/solenoid. The idle control valve operates by changing the duty cycle, not the voltage. If you can get some-one to connect it to a laptop the duty cycle should be around forty-five percent, too much more or less indicates a problem, like an air leak for instance. You could check all the vacuum hoses and pipes visually and you could put a vacuum gauge on the car to check it's vacuum at idle.

All you have to do really is drive the car as you normally do. They are resetting and adapting to your car and your driving style the whole time. Resetting the ecu will often cause all the old settings that don't need adjusting, to be set to a less than optimum figure. Whatever you do, it wioll all be back to where it's needed after a couple of restarts and a ten minute drive if driven properly, ie, through all of it's speed and load ranges.

Ten kilo watts wll run a fire fighting pump. The water-pump gearing, size of the impellor etc are all calculated so that the cooling capacity of the system increases in something like the requirements of the engine at different revs. i.e. at low revs little cooling is needed and the impellor is, because of it's design, fairly inefficient at low revs. As the revs increase the efficiecy of the pump increases which combined with the increased revs keeps the coolant flow near what is required. Even if the electrical pump only took two kilo watts of power the alternator wouldn't keep up with demand. The drive availiable from the flat belt running the stock water pump, will only be enough for about two-hundred watts. I have had quite a bit of experiance with flat belts in engineering situations and they do not have huge drive capabilities. The water pump only has a fraction of it's surface in contact with the belt so my initial estimate of two-hundred is being very generous. Apart from the bragging rights, I dont think that the small savings in power that are going to be made are worth the trouble, cost and the risk involved.

nd if the mechanical pump uses ten KILOwatts, how many horsepower is the electrical motor running this other electric pump? And where do we get all this electrical power from that isn't going to put a load on the motor?

Where did that ten KILO watt figure come from?

V: DTC P0128 — COOLANT THERMOSTAT (COOLANT TEMPERATURE BELOW THERMOSTAT REGULATING TEMPERATURE) — 1. OUTLINE OF DIAGNOSIS Detect the malfunction of thermostat function. Judge NG when the engine coolant temperature is lower than the estimated engine coolant temperature and the difference between them is large. Judge OK when the engine coolant temperature becomes 75°C (167°F) and the difference is small before judging NG. 2. COMPONENT DESCRIPTION 3. ENABLE CONDITION 4. GENERAL DRIVING CYCLE Always perform the diagnosis continuously. (1) Valve (6) Rubber packing (2) Spring (7) Stop ring (3) Stopper (8) Wax element (4) Piston (9) Jiggle valve (5) Guide Secondary Parameters Enable Conditions None EN-01692 (9) (2) (6) (8) (7) (5) (4) (3) (1) (2) GD(STi)-52 GENERAL DESCRIPTION DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) DETECTING CRITERIA 5. DIAGNOSTIC METHOD • Abnormality Judgment Judge NG when the continuous time of completing the malfunction criteria below becomes more than 30 seconds. Judgment Value Time Needed for Diagnosis: 30 seconds Malfunction Indicator Light Illumination: Illuminates when malfunction occurs in 2 continuous driving cycles. • Normality Judgment Judge OK and clear the NG when the malfunction criteria below are completed. Judgment Value 6. DTC CLEAR CONDITION • When the OK idling cycle was completed 40 times in a row • When “Clear Memory” was performed 7. MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT CLEAR CONDITION • When the OK driving cycle was completed 3 times in a row • When “Clear Memory” was performed 8. FAIL SAFE None 9. ECM OPERATING AT DTC SETTING • Memorize the freeze frame data. (For test mode $02) • Memorize the diagnostic value and trouble standard value. (For test mode $06)

I think that code is for a stuck open thermostat.

http://www.analogstereo.com/car_owners_manual.htm Could try here. Or follow from here... http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/120189/article.html