log1call

It's possible that the sensor isn't within it's expected range and so the light comes on. It needs to be connected thermaly so it gets near the right temp. You could try wrapping it in asbestos wrap(just kidding). Better though to get a fitting welded on to the exhaust and plug it back in. As the guys have said, you have to fix the problem, then the light will go out. To wipe the stored codes you have to connect all four wires, not just the green ones.

Hmm, that pedal feeling thing is strange, and I suspect not the cause or even a result of the gear change. The first thing you need to do is get the trouble codes. Which I suppose has been done before? Second, if there are no trouble codes, you need to have the hydraulic pressures checked if you want a good diagnosis. Let us know if there are any codes first.

Just tested, or tested and adjusted? If you just want them tested and recorded then any mechanic or auto-electrician with a scan tool should be able to do it for you.

Doesn't, "The sound it was making was hi pitched sounded like there was a stoned stuck in engine every time i would accelerate it would make a rattling noise and it would not boost or accelerate, not that i was thrashing the car just drove normal, while it happened." sound like a turbo dying a sudden death? Bearings don't make a high pitched sound. I've never heard anyone describe big-end or main bearing noise as "rattling". Have you had it diagnosed or are you throwing it out untested? If you are throwing it... Can I have it?