cpt kernow

Ya reckopn, i am yet to meet a "decent" one, the all seem to be power trippers to me...(and i know about 5 cops personally and all of them are the same.) [quote name='loren said: get over it dude, he did nothing worth complaining about. /quote] I disagree, it harassament, and what makes it worse is its by a public figure who should know better. I would be complaining, 1st to the snr srgt at the cop shop then id' be writing away to Howard Broad to express my dissapointment in the NZ police and ask him to respond. I've never met a cop who I thought was a complete power tripper, but then I've always been civil to them and only ever been stopped for the mundane light bulb, breathtests or driving late at night. And even then I don't mind because they're only checking it's not stolen and no harms done. I know quite a few cops and they are people. I don't think it was polite what he said or proper for his position, but bringing it up to his superiors might only bring some repercussions down the line for you. Especially if you're gonna join up. Best to wait till then and look him up?

intersting, I've been wondering where my lurches were coming from.

I keep finding roughly the same http://www.cars-directory.net/specs%25/subaru/forester/1997_2/28145/ and http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/subaru/forester/2000_5/28123/ And this one too. http://www.mykp.co.uk/my-cars/subaru-forester-stb/ On a thread hijack, I like the way he's resprayed the bottom half of the car to match, tempting?

Yeah mine came with the double din dvd/satnav thing but just pulled it out and put my normal stereo in with a spacer pocket underneath to keep cds in. I didn't want to buy an expander for the radio, and generally don't watch movies in the car. It's like watching tv on your cell phone?

I got confused when you mentioned knuckle, but you mean the Universal joint? The rest of the rack won't make a difference as it's all attached to the subframe, so will stay in the same relative position no matter what you do to the body spacers. Good work on changing the rack though. I've thought of doing that to quicken up the steering.

So a cable and my computer could do it, the others look quite trade based? So I need a cable hint hint

I'd like a way of wiring something into the car so I can monitor what's going on eg boost/rpm and mixture/rpm. I know there's loads of jaycar kits for each aspect but I'd like to get something to plug in to my flaptop so I can monitor stuff and record it on the fly. Don't necessarily want to adjust or remap anything. Any ideas?

if you want the crank pulley to look good, why don't you whip it out and get it electroplated? then replace the ancilliary ones with alloy?

Go back a couple of pages. Cheers tho.

Snorkelectomy in the foz. Cold air, minimal water ingress and stock AFM/ air box

Fuchs Titan gear 75-90

That would've been taking a wee bit of maths from the work done to spin x amount of pulleys at x rpm weighing x amount, compared to the work done to move stock ones of a different mass the same speed. Could be valid in theory but a dyno would show the truth

So that's why they need wheelie-bars!

If'they're original Sti mags I think they'll look sweet. Very Rally!

ROFL

9.3-9.8/100km depending on the run in mine. which about 10.2k's/L And I'd like to see a wrx fit 5people, 3 kayaks, dive gear and camping stuff for a long weekend?

Holy shit good or bad? For all the extra space, I'm happy with the extra 80kg over a WRX wagon. considering the same running gear and engine

You feel like this guy? or more like this guy I broke mine a couple of weeks back and I've never launched it, kinda gutted.

Carjams's definately worth the $12 to find if there's any security loans on the vehicle before you hand over the cash. The most common thing I hear of is the interior clock, but there's a link on here about fixing it. Other than that, it's my first Subaru and It's been great, except a few niggles that I'd put up with having not known history. If you got that, you could flick the wheels off and get a good portion of the money back too.

It sucks when they use any excuse not to pay, such as moving house or becoming single/attached etc. Just shows that you gotta play by the rules sometimes because they got the checkbook and don't like using it. On a tangent my insurance dropped by 30% when I got married lol. Same bloke, same car, same address, same partner but a signing of a book and a big party later all my insurance drops. Even though I'd written off my mountain bike and they paid out 5K to fix it, suckers!

Here's the layout. A good way to check stuff is run through in sequence. If it sounds too hard go to your mech. open the bonnet. look at all the hoses going to and from the wastegate actuator and the solenoids on the strut pillar-check their all plugged in properly and don't leak or have cracks etc. Check all the fittings are tight. If a hose pulls off really easily then use a cable tie or wire. It should hold some air pressure. A good cause of leaky bits is the T fitting that goes off to you're boost guage/turbo timer as it wasn't fitted at the factory and might be crappy. check that the short bit of hose to the right of the actuator (that's where mine is) has a lump in the middle of it. It's the restricitor pill. Then if you happen to have a compression pump or a big syringe, attach it to the short hose from the actuator then squeeze it in. the arm on your actuator should push the gate open. You might have to remove the sheilding to see properly. If it doesn't move easily then it could be seized. How do I know? When I first got my car it would boost cut all the time. went from cruising to a little bit of gas then bang as the fuel was cut. It was boosting from 10 straight to 16. Turned out to be a sticky gate and a leaky T peice.

Jaycar do a programmable keypad. I thought about keeping one in the ashtray as hidden starter

I had one in my mini after someone broke the ignition cylinder and i didn't want to replace it. Used an old headlight switch because it has two on terminals (ign1 and ign2) then i put it down by the foglight switch. Then got a sprung "on while depressed" button for the starter. worked mean and cost about $6. In a subie you could still keep the imobiliser and use the key for steering lock and relocate the ignition wires

only a few hours to go.... Myeh. First one was better.