rico

If you scroll down near the bottom of the page you can see the ones that the UK legacy guys got Viper to make up http://www.viperperformance.co.uk/productsearch_hoses.php?xscId=9934 I'm guessing they probably would ship to NZ?

I've seen some silicon pipes made for BG5 twin turbos on the UK legacy forum site. They got a company to make some up using the plastic pipes as a template. I've never seen any for sale here in NZ but Let us know if you find any that are suitable. Cheers.

Yeah mine is pretty loud these days with the cold weather. As mentioned, I think as long as it gets quieter as it warms up its probably nothing to worry about? Mine is loud as at startup and I can still notice it when taking off at lights etc even once warmed up but has been like that for over a year and still going strong so I'm just assuming its piston slap.

Should be VF18 primary VF19 secondary AFAIK

Did you guys replace the factory exhaust parts with aftermarket cat-less ones or just gut the cats out of the factory mid/down pipes and re-fit?

Cool thanks, I will try get under there sometime and take a closer look but its ridiculously difficult to see whats going on in that area. Think I will need to remove intercooler and heat shields to be able to replace the hose. I guess I just need any oil-rated hose as a replacement?

Hi, I have a leak from my primary turbo oil return (BG5 legacy GTB) its nothing major but does result in spots on the driveway and has been pissing me off for months so finally going to see if I can sort it this weekend. Not exactly sure where the leak originates from but was going to start by replacing the rubber hose and clamps first to see if that fixes it Just wondering if anyone happens to know the size of the oil return hose so that I can get a replacement piece before pulling the car apart to find out. Cheers.

I had this too, was worried something was seriously wrong but as ADIKT says it was just the little grommet in the way.

Just got back from Kaikoura after fitting walbro pump, big thanks to Pro wholesale for quick delivery and great service. Got Subaru fitting kit with the pump so no need to join any wires etc it simply plugs straight in and comes with a fuel sock the same size as the one from the original pump. Maybe its all in my head but I swear car is idling and accelerating much smoother than it ever has which makes me wonder how long the old one had been on the blink for before it finally gave out. Cheers to all that helped.

Just ordered walbro with subaru fitting kit through Pro wholesalers, great to deal with. Hopefully turns up tomorrow morning and I can take it over to car in Kaikoura and get it fitted. Any tips or tricks with fitting these?

Would be keen man but really need to buy off company so can pay with credit card and get it sent ASAP rather than waiting for internet banking to cear etc. I'll check out pro wholesalers

Sweet so something like the link below should be all good and fit withou problems? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/auction-418215671.htm Thanks

Hey, So was driving from Dunedin to Nelson in my 97 bgg GTB legacy and after stopping in Kaikoura car would not start again. Got towed to garage where they diagnosed fuel pump as the problem. Have been trying to find replacement but from Subaru, Repco Bnt etc looking at $400. Looked at Walbro ones on TM etc and can't understand why they so cheap? Is it because they are not a direct replacement and I would need to modify things to install one? Please let me know if these walbro ones would be sweet, need to sort ASAP. Cheers

I did mine a couple of months ago, think it was about $90 new from subaru dealer. Replaced it myself, is a bit fiddly to get to the bolt but not that bad and only took me about an hour which isn't too bad since I had never removed the TMIC before. Apparently its crucial to position the new knock sensor at the correct orientation/angle, I just took picture of old one in place then put new one as close to that as possible. Also don't have a tourqe wrench so just did the bolt up about as tight as it was when removed it. So far all good and CEL hasn't returned, so I'm sure you could DIY if wanna save some cash.

I just re-greased my bilsteins on the weekend (97 legacy GTB BG5B). Just remove the bottom bolt and the insert threads out. Was some Red grease in there that had gone quite waxy so removed as much as possible with spatula and rags then put some new grease in and re-assembled everything. Now have no knocking that I was experiencing from Left Rear and car feels so much smoother. Also fitted some Tein lowering springs at the same time so feels like a new car, stoked with the outcome!

Yeah has anyone actually done this with Bilsteins? I had a look into it and pretty sure it can be done but don't want to have shock explode or something on me if I'm wrong! There is a nut on the bottom of the strut that can be removed and then the insert can be threaded out of the strut housing using the grove in the bottom. I found this described on some BMW forum a while ago whilst searching but cant bloody find it again.

I changed mine on my 97 BG5 GTB about a month ago because was getting intermittent CEL. I took IC off, don't really see how it could be done otherwise. Was the first time I had removed IC and to be honest wasn't that big of deal getting it off or back on, just a bit fiddly. Biggest problem I had was actually replacing the knock sensor, its really buried down there! In the end I disconnected a coolant hose to get to it. Turned out the wire on my sensor had cracked and must have been the cause of the CEL because haven't had a problem since the change. Also be sure to bolt the new sensor in the same orientation as the one you take out.

Hey thanks for that, makes sense really. Next question tho, does anybody know the factory legacy gtb spring rates?

Yeah chains were my other concern, although didn't need them once last year at Cardrona thanks to the 4wd. And I know what you mean about Hutt road it does get really rutted up.

Hi, I was thinking about getting some lowering springs for my 97 legacy gtb but am concerned I will have problems heading up the ski field roads (Cardrona in particular). Never had a lowered car and not sure how much the stiffer springs prevent it from lowering even more when loaded with weight? The way I see it by the time my car is loaded up with people and gear on the stock bilsteins and springs it looks sacked anyway and I've never had problems on the roads, so as long as lowering spring rates hold the height steady with the added weight I should be sweet? Cheers.

Got it sorted. Wreckers had a 2 week old clutch kit that they had installed then bought back when the car they installed it on was written off. So got basically new clutch fully installed for $500 so pretty happy with that. Feels like a new car to drive, so smooth. But do hear a slight rattle when idling which haven't had a chance to look into yet

It doesn't make any noise at all, just the vibration. From what I've read online whilst searching it seems that normally you can hear a 'chatter' when the bearings on its way out so maybe mine is just starting to go. Anyone bought one of the kits off trademe? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=371314262 It seems you can get either 225mm or 230mm, anyone know whats the best kit for a 97 BG5 gtb? Cheers.

Hey, thanks for all the suggestions. I had a feeling it was going to be a major . As suggested will get the whole clutch kit and fly wheel resurfaced. Is it going to be doing any harm continuing to drive it in the meantime while I get parts sorted etc?

Hi, Recently my clutch pedal has started vibrating when I push it in. It does not vibrate when fully out or fully in but only as you start to push the pedal in. Clutch seems to be working fine, not slipping etc. Anybody know what the cause is? Do I need to adjust the pedal or something? Cheers.

Check to see the speaker wires/terminals aren't touching the metal on the door anywhere. Had the same problem a while ago and was due to the speaker terminal shorting out by just touching edge of speaker hole on door when fully screwed in.