rico

Hey, I have the same problem with my GTB. Knocking noise from front passenger side but only after driving for around 30min or more. Changed front end links cos they looked pretty knackered but that didn't make a difference. Happens when on smooth road as well so not sure what the problem is. Let me know if you figure it out. Cheers.

Awesome, thanks for your help. I think the main problem with my Bilsteins is they have done 150,000km and probably need a rebuild but with the $'s involved to do that I figure I'll be better off trying some low km V7 sti ones.

Hi, I have searched and found some good topics on this but still have a few questions that I hope you guys can help me with before I commit and buy some V7 sti struts to replace my Bilsteins. 1) Is changing from Bilsteins on my 97 legacy gtb to the red (KYBs i think) struts from a V7 sti considered an upgrade in suspension, or at least equal in ride quality? I would assume yes considering they're from an sti model 4 years later. 2) Would I use the sti springs or would I need to/be able to swap over the springs off my Bilsteins considering they would be going on a wagon? 3) Will the swap alter ride height? I read that it will greatly increase the height in the rear on a GC8 but this wont be a problem on a BG5? 4) Sounds like it should be a straight forward swap except I will need camber bolts in the rear, is there anything else I will need? Sorry for all the questions but hope some of you can ease my concerns so that I can go ahead find some sti struts and do the swap. Cheers.

Yeah looks like removing intercooler etc is the only way to get into there, hopefully it is just a loose clamp. Does anyone know if you can buy silicon turbo to intercooler hoses to fit BG5 legacy's? Might be worth replacing the plastic ones while I'm at it as it sounds like its a lot easier to re-fit the intercooler with silicon hoses.

Yeah you can do rocker covers yourself, don't need to jack engine or anything. It's pretty easy just a bit fiddly I guess. Got all my parts from dealer and it's only about $20 for the main gasket but bloody bolt washers are $7 each!

Hi, I've got a 97 legacy gtb and have been trying to sort out a few oil leaks. Replaced rocker cover gaskets last weekend but while under the car I noticed oil running down what I think is the primary turbo oil return pipe. Its dripping off the fitting that goes into the block but can see oil running down the rubber hose all the way up to the bottom of the turbo, so assume its leaking from that fitting. Maybe the bolt has just come loose or I need to replace a washer or something? Does anyone know how to access the bolt? Need to remove TMIC etc? Cheers.

Just found the following link which shows that the Bilsteins need to be unscrewed even after the bolt has been removed. Doesn't mention it on this site but in others I found it says that you have to turn it clockwise to undo it. http://www.brazeauracing.com/bumpstops.htm Will have a go tomorrow and post back how I get on.

I can twist the thick part (where springs would be) easily by hand. The thread at the bottom has a grove in it that I can turn with a lot of effort using a screw driver but can't get it out for the life of me. Think I'll just leave it over night and have a go tomorrow before I get fucked off and break it

Fuck, why does everything you think is going to be easy turn into such a mission! Got the strut out OK and top hat/springs etc off but cant get the cartridge out of the strut housing. Undid the bolt on the bottom and according to all the guides I've found the cartridge is just supposed to pull out piece of piss but I can't get it to budge. Anyone know if there is a trick to the bilstein's as opposed to the sti struts that the guides refer to?

sweet, sounds like a plan. Thanks for your help

Hi, so was planning on re-greasing rear blisteins today but don't know how to take the brake line off the strut. Removed a circlip thing but brake line joins through the hole in the strut. How does this join come apart? and wont it just piss out all the fluid if I do get it apart? All the pics I've seen the circlip is just removed and then the line can be slid out the side of the bracket on the strut but thats not the case here. Any help much appreciated, really pissing me off! Cheers.

Sounds like a recipe for disaster, having 260 Kw @ the wheels in their first car! No wonder so many crashes involving young teens when parents are prepared to buy their kids essentially a street legal race car and say here go learn to drive.

I meant it feels like the shock is 'sticking' then when settles makes a clunking noise. If I push down on that corner of car can feel its not moving smoothly. Maybe its fucked, but figure I'll give the re-greasing a go since its cheap. Just wondered if anyone had actually done it with success.

Hey did anyone every try the more involved re-greasing method linked above? My left rear blistein seems to be 'sticking', notice it most when stopping and taking off at light etc.

yeah piece of piss, there are about 3 screws to remove then the door card just pops off. This link has some pics of where some of the screws are, but it might be a bit different between models. http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=89652 The little keyless entry speaker was about 30cm above the speaker on my drivers door.

Have you had a look to see if the little speaker is plugged in (Behind drivers door card, about halfway up the door). When I was fitting speakers in my BG5 it was knocking around so I just unplugged it and left it off, maybe someone has done this to your car previously?

I put 6.5" speakers in all doors on my 97 gtb the other week and that was tough enough with space issues etc so think you would be battling to get 6x9's in there. I wanted all my speakers behind the door cards so that it looks tidy but you could probably fit 6x9's if you mount them on the outside of the door card, would look pretty rough though.

I have exact same problem on my front passenger side, at speed can here the air 'whooshing' (sounds like when you have window down a little bit). Really cant figure out whats causing it though because seal looks in mint condition. Anyone solved a similar problem before?

Think its supposed to be bout 12psi on primary then 15-16psi when secondary's kicked in. On my 97 gtb I'm currently getting 8-9psi on primary then 16psi with secondary.

Na, in Dunedin volcanix, cheers for the offer though. Just took car to couple other places in town (incl an engine recondition place) all told me the same thing, that definitely bottom end problem of some sort with BEB damage most likely. Reuben, would love to do the whole rebuild and single turbo conversion approach (I've read your thread a few times) but like I said don't have the $'s for it and am most likely going to be heading overseas in about 18 months anyway so am going to go with the secondhand engine replacement. Does $2500 all up for an engine replacement sound reasonable? Replacement engine done 94,000km, includes both turbos, transferring over the cambelt, tensioners etc from my fkd engine which were replaced a couple of months ago. Also includes oil, filters coolant etc and a 3 month warranty. I've done a bit of searching and seems a pretty good price considering lowish Kms of engine, realise 2nd hands a gamble but only feasible option for me at the mo.

Wish it was piston slap but the noise was still pretty loud this morning after driving from home to the dealership (bout 10-15m) it does get quieter when warm but not within a few minutes, more like 15-20min

car done 139,000 km.

log1call i hope your right mate! I will do what you suggest when I get a chance, thanks for the help. And no I haven't had the oil pressure checked

Is piston slap still noticeable when engines warm? The knock is definitely still audible when engines warm. Is it possible to confirm beb without pulling engine apart.

Not a bad idea there Zarnah, I hadn't thought of that. I really do like the car though but should probably consider that option.