dimin

Awesome result, thieving bastards better get thrown away for that. Also why did the cop tell you to put your camera down ?? The guy steals YOUR car and you cant film him?? That s*** pisses me off. Having been a victim of theft myself, they match prints to names but Im not allowed to have a copy of those names, yet they took MY car, and still haven't been caught a year down the track. NZ justice system is completely f***ed and pathetic, makes my blood boil But glad to see this result, bout time thieving scum got caught red handed

Another standard engine bay, my V5 STi RA

As said AFMs, the ones on the V5 and 6 tend to run the engine lean when they fail too which melts pistons/causes detonation which runs BEB's. Best thing is to replace it with a brand new one, I did as soon as I bought mine, good peace of mind and theyre only about $200 ish for just the sensor(dont need the whole housing).

Ive had a couple of Innovate products, the LC1 in my Ver8 Sti, then an MTX kit in my current car. Can vouch for the MTX, very easy to install and given no worries so far, comes with guage that has the controller integrated, and the sensor that plugs into it. My LC1 also had no issues in nearly a year of use.

My V5 STi RA is nearly on 200k, original engine but freshened up at 185k. Though my old Sti Type R is up to 160 odd kms now from what I know(brother knows the current owner), and still original everything ! Both me and my bro' owned it and had no issues at all doing over 50000ks between us. Regular 5000k services and strict diet of 98 must help !

Bloody suprsing after those 2 maoris we know took it for a strop haha Haha didnt think of that, funny it was probably the most reliable car ive owned too I think!

My 2 Impreza sedans - V8 Sti(stolen start of the year) and V5 STi RA, the current toy!

My old Type R, should of bloody kept it, was mint and had no problems with the car at all. AFAIK still going strong too.

Yep cool mate, I will see how it goes for the next week or two(ECU may throw code, etc after a proper long drive ?), will update with results after that.

Yea at idle it just sits around the 14.7 mark on the wideband, driving at 100km/h cruising on light throttle for 10-15mins you can see it going into open loop(afrs richen up into 13.5-14.1 range) with a bit of load(ie small hills) then on the flat the afr's drop back to anywhere from 14.6-14.9. Cruising at anything over 3500rpm seems to push it back to open loop as well. Other than that no massive corrections can be seen, no wild swinging of the afr's as running with the narrowband controlling it.

Ive set it so that at 14.5 afr its 0.41V, at 15.3 afr its 0.49v, the ECU looks for it switching across the 0.45v value as far im aware ? So the hope was to the ecu its still functioning right. Dunno though, not sure how the software/code works in the ECU.

So ive been playing round with the programmable output of the Innovate MTX-L, have found voltage settings that seem to make the closed loop fuelling behave somewhat. Have got it so it sits between 14.6 and 14.9 AFR, which is spot on what it should be really. Not sure how long before the ECU throws a code, if it does at all. So far its been running good, and the AFRs dont swing wildly all over the show, very stable. Will see how it goes for the next week or so and if its fine like that it can stay that way ! May try another TPS in the meantime though, to see if it has any effect.

V5 Sti is the car, 3 wire narrowband sensor in the downpipe. Ichi Ban your theory sounds on the money, I might try and find a proper Subaru factory one and try that. Unfortunately the old one I pulled out i damaged removing so cant refit it ! But never mind. Am going to Tauranga for work tomorow, might stop into the Pick a part there and see if there are any standard Subaru sensors I can grab and try. Also been trawling through threads on O2 sensors and saw in one that QRAF had problems with a repco a/m sensor and changing to a geniune Suby one sorted the surging issues so keen to try a genuine one now ! Will update once Ive tried it if it has sorted the problem. Also running the narrowband simulated output does make it worse, assuming the signal delay causes this. Oh and yes tried resetting the ECU plenty and hasnt made a difference unfortunately.

Took the car away for a decent trip this long weekend, did 450odd km. Ran it in open loop with O2 unplugged for first half of the trip, ran beautiful and smooth. Wasnt too bad on gas either, about 250km from full tank to half. On return trip I plugged the factory o2 back in for the last 50km or so, seemed to be a lot less hesitant after driving for a bit. Still there but far less noticeable, strange. Also the AFR's were holding a bit more stable around the 14.7 mark, cycling between 14.3-15.1. Still hoping I can disconnect the o2 completely though and get it tuned purely in open loop. One thing I want to check is for any sign of exhaust leaks as EJ20T said, maybe there's a small one I havent noticed thats letting clean air in and throwing off the o2 readings. Might do a little more investigating tomorow. Did check for airleaks too, but I might double check that tomorow.

My end tank cracked on my radiator as they do with age, was gonna get one of these redline ones but glad I didnt now !! Instead got stock one reconned, for a lot cheaper and at least it no stuffing round to get it to fit. Reminds me of an M&H down pipe I bought for my STi coupe, was told it was a 'bolt on', shit it was so far from bolt on it wasnt funny. Nothing lined up, it was hard up on the steering knuckle, hard up to gearbox crossmember, flange didnt line up on the turbo studs, etc what a shocker. Took it back for a refund and vowed never to get cheap rubbish parts like that ever again ! Proper JDM branded stuff or custom fabricated is the only way IMO.

Hmm a scanner may be the go. Im at my wits end now with the issue. Tried another different branded o2 sensor, brand new, same problem. The closed loop mixture cycles too much, like 14 to 15 afr's, thats far too much of a swing IMO, you can feel it going rich-lean which makes the car surge forward then pull back, surge forward pull back ,etc. I would of thought it should hold close to 14.7, maybe a .2 of AFR point variation but nearly a whole point is of course gonna cause driveability issues. It almost seems like the ECU isnt controlling the short and long term fuel trims properly. Im thinking best way out is im planning to take it for an ECUtek tune, might see if they can tune it open loop only and disable the o2/closed loop fuelling. Did that on my V8 sti and it ran the best it ever did. So one thing to look into. Only other option is try a proper genuine subaru bosch one, maybe the aftermarket ones arent up to the task, even though I've never had an issue with previous cars and aftermarket sensors.

Cool cheers for the suggestions gazzy. Have checked and adjusted TPS, it seems fine. Knock sensor was the next thing to check, so will do that when I get a chance, engine has been out so it may be a high possibility that its not torqued or positioned correctly. Also, QRAF, no turbo upgrade, its just the stock VF28. But it does have an aftermarket downpipe, though the sensor is in the same position as stock. Have done fuel pump and filter, and spark plugs too. Leads looked fine under close inspection but perhaps I may replace those too eventually. Will check knock sensor and update if it has an effect.

Hmm the AFM is brand new, have cleaned with AFM cleaner, no change. Have now unplugged the o2 completely, so running open loop all the time. Runs very smooth with AFRs around 14.3-14.5:1 at cruise. With the o2 plugged in it cycles at least 1 AFR point either side of what I target(14.7 is the stock closed loop target). Just gonna leave it unplugged for now, its running very close to 14.7:1 anyway and runs so much nicer so will see how it goes.

Update on the issue. Got a Innovate wideband and installed it. When it goes into closed loop the AFRs swing quite badly, from 13.8-15.5, as I thought, giving the stumble/hesitation. So i wired the Innovates narrowband simulated output to the ECU, and strangely enough it has the same behaviour?! Really baffled by this now, 3 different oxygen sensors incl the wideband, and the problem has stayed. Forcing open loop it cruises perfectly at 14-14.4ish AFRs very smooth. But as soon as it goes closed loop it stumbles with the AFRs all over the show. For now im just running without O2 input and its fine, if a little rich. Is there anything else that can affect fuelling in closed loop like this apart from the lambda sensor ? It almost like the ECU is way over adjusting the closed loop fuel trims or something. Will update if I sort the issue, but if anyones had similar problems and fixed it feel free to post up ! Cheers

Oh also, have tested the output of it. It does swing between 0.2-0.8v , but quite quickly, easy twice every ten seconds. Will update after I get the Innovate one in there. Least then I can see what the AFRs are doing properly. Definitely feels like it has bad lean spots when it hesitates.

As said above, runs smooth as unplugged. ACA are some aussie brand that does alot of automotive electrical products. Have just bought a new Innovate MTX-L wideband so will fit that, and use the narrowband simulated output and see how it goes. Hopefully it will be all good, and il send the shitty ACA one back

Having some issues which im positive is related to the o2 sensor. Replaced the factory tired sensor 3 weeks ago with an ACA universal one. Car ran perfect prior to replacement. After replacing took it for a drive, and straight away could feel hesitation, in closed loop conditions i.e cruising. Worst is between 2500 and 3200rpm, not really noticeable outside of that. My old V4 Sti coupe sensor failed and had the exact same symptoms, hence why I think the sensor is dodgy. So I took the sensor back to the place I bought it and got a free replacement put in. Not to long after driving away I could feel it surging yet again Have changed fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, brand new AFM before the o2 sensor as well. Engine fully reconditioned 2000ks ago. Also have checked TPS calibration and its spot on. So anyone had issues like this before ? Especially with trying 2 new sensors ? Are these ACA branded ones just cheap s*** ? Also, unplugging the sensor, the car runs smooth as. Also smooth in open loop, WOT conditions, etc. For first few mins of driving from cold its smooth as well. As soon as it goes closed loop though theres hesitation straight away. Any hints, maybe Ive overlooked something ? Might try a Bosch sensor perhaps....cheers

I enjoyed it, good entertainment. Some nice cars in there, KPGC10 Skyline even, looked mint. Good having all original cast from the previous ones too.

Anyone who didnt go to megameet go along to this ? I did the whole 3 days, was a pretty good weekend overall. Good to see the different classes, with the GT1 and muscle touring cars classes involving a bit of jappa power. BT's Spec C looked and sounded mean until he got nudged into the wall near the end of the Sunday race, was gutted to see that. Cool to see the drift boys out providing some entertainment as well. Weather made things interesting especially on Saturday with quite a few incidents around the track. Pretty good weekend rounded off with the kiwi Shane van Gisbergen taking out race 2, awesome to see, and O's on each corner on the victory lap, legend. Only gripe is how expensive the trackside food and alcohol was, made a few trips to the pub instead which was a bit cheaper !

Yea then you have a factory tuneable ECU as well which is a plus.