[What have you done to your car today?]

I may have strayed back to the dark side

 

 

 

 

[Help! Detonation!]

Does it actually need bigger squirters at this stage? 

 

Have you done a pressure test on the whole intake? 

 

Have you checked fuel pressure once it comes on boost (fuel pump or reg being sad?)

 

 

[The "Hose 10" Mod - BE/BH]

14 minutes ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Rev d should all have direct line... 

 

And if it does have direct line, its probably the best spot to tee a gauge in to. Because all the other pressure / vac lines have sensitive stuff plugged into the other end of it

 

Yeah exactly - I don't know what hose the half dozen owners who are saying they've done stuff on a rev D have done to be honest 

 

And yes agreed re where to plug in the hose - that fulla on the bookface I get the feeling is not too mechanical so didn't want to over complicate it

[The "Hose 10" Mod - BE/BH]

@Kiwi_Fozze DO YOU KNOW WHO I AM

 

Also by way of follow up

 

My previous two Rev D legacies both had the revised hose arrangement - meaning no "hose 10 mod" to be done, they had a direct line from manifold to BOV from factory

 

I have a Rev C (backlit dash, new interior, old headlights and ECU setup) at the moment which been done, runs 15psi primary by 2400rpm and about 20psi on secondary (there may be another issue here) - it ran about 10 / 14psi before

 

Some rev D apparently do not have a revised hose arrangement? I am confuse by this - I get the feeling there's some confusion re what hoses are even being talked about 

[Dyno leaderboard V4]

 

Ha @Timmah bumped you off

 

Also contender for worst legacy VOD ever

 

Note - not current car, or the one before it, BH5 with V7 sti top mount, pod filter, big muff and no cats

[Type RA to return....]

To be fair it's not the "only" place they test a car 

 

It's more an easily understood benchmark for people, like 0-100 times or a HP figure

[What have you done to your car today?]

1 hour ago, Conducks said:

I assure you it's not bullshit. Otherwise my parents wouldn't trust me with such a car.
 

 

Was this before or after you found out how far 4th gear stretches? 

 

 

We've all done stupid S*** but pick your battles man

[Lifting Outback queries/Cert?]

Have you considered buying a forester 

[What have you done to your car today?]

26 minutes ago, Conducks said:

I could've had a much slower, cheaper car but I feel that having my car from basically the get go that I've learnt to handle the power. Here's majority of my mates with 2k Corolla's, Courier's, Hondas heck even a Mondeo who've all crashed because they've lost control and I've had basically 280hp+ plus cars since being on my learners and I drive fairly responsibly. Only ever had one ticket and that was for drifting in front of a cop in my STi. Meanwhile mates always say "if I had this car I'd be doing 200kmh everywhere and would've lost my license heaps". Wish i could get that across to insurance


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I don't mean to be a cock but can't help it... Drifting in front of a cop is not what I'd call driving fairly responsibly

 

Number of tickets incurred does not translate to skill level 

[V7 Sti Exhaust]

19 minutes ago, willisnz said:

Can you use cheap vag-com cables on V7 STI if all you want to do is log?

 

Probably but why half arse it

 

Use vag-com cable: Oh no it's pinging I need to fix it, wait I can't

Tactrix: It runs mint now I want launch control oh neat I can do that

[V7 Sti Exhaust]

Removing back pressure can also make the car *safer* than stock as it is less det prone, the risk comes from if boost rises more than safe levels and is left unchecked

 

Do it once, do it right, big downpipe and no cat, then that box is ticked 

 

If you buy a tactrix cable you can look for yourself at how it's running (you can look at if it's pulling ignition timing, etc), or you can chuck it on a dyno for a $150 power run which can a) listen for knock and b) check the state of the air / fuel ratios to put your mind at ease

 

The main thing is if in doubt just find out - remember it's a 15 year old car which hasn't had an easy life, it is as prudent a thing to do now and then as an oil change if you're planning on looking after the car 

 

 

 

[What have you done to your car today?]

Actually bought something for it, it's receiving a 5 puck h/d exedy clutch once I get the motivation to install it 

 

Taking a leaf from @boon's book and saying you know what F***it why not have something a little antisocial in what it realistically a toy car for me 

[Dream(ing) Machine]

Yeah but, still

 

You'd then have a car making 450hp at 3k rather than 300hp at 3k

 

I'm not sure what the argument is to be fair, they're built around regulations and as you said it has a purpose in mind (maximising performance with that restrictor)

 

For the same cost you could build an S2000 with a twin churbro viper V10 in it 

Or a monster truck which can do backflips

Or like at least 8 jokeravengers and a batbaru

Or half a holiday house at the mount 

Or an ex russian jet fighter 

 

I go back to the "compare it to a V8 supercar" analogy - sure you can pick something to model against but that thing has rules to adhere to, if you ignore them then you'll find it very easy to surpass the thing you're comparing to 

[Dream(ing) Machine]

That doesn't make sense

 

You remove the restrictor and they gain much hp

 

There's heaps of guys who run cars in classes that require a restrictor one week and remove it for events that don't the next - they just make *less* when restricted

 

It's like how kenyan marathon runners have the restrictor of high altitude - when you derestrict them with sea level oxygen it's not like they have a meltdown they just go faster 

[Who is doing what to keep their engine bay cool?]

What is the actual goal here

[Dream(ing) Machine]

For what it's worth the same applies to any car built to a set of rules - every second lap time you see in NZ ior AUS s compared to the V8SC times but they're massively hobbled by their regulations

 

Don't the WRC cars make that 300hp at like almost all RPM though? 

[Who is doing what to keep their engine bay cool?]

It's not a small increase in peak power

 

It's a massive difference in knock prevention and power loss 

 

People say "Only gain 15hp peak with fmic"

 

What they fail to mention is "Oh but there's also 50hp loss at times with TMIC" 

 

Re the shroud - all subarus HAVE a shroud from scoop to intercooler already. If it doesn't then it's been removed and the intercooler is near useless at the moment anyway 

[Who is doing what to keep their engine bay cool?]

I'm disagreeing

 

Even a stock evo (or similar) intercooler and a an ebay piping kit will be a massive improvement over the stock subaru offering

 

 

[Who is doing what to keep their engine bay cool?]

Just remember if you make it harder to get it hot, it's harder to cool it down again

 

Best way to keep engine bay temps down is airflow in and out

 

 

 

 

['94 WRX - buyers guide?]

I hate to say it but the facebook marketplace and various buy sell pages on there are your best bet

 

Buyer beware as always but it's no worse than trademe or the old buy/sell/exchange paper

 

Looking at mine now there's half a dozen wrx's within a couple hundred km of me for under 3k, ranging from neglected bogan POS's to bone stock

 

People are getting turned off the trademe "$140-to-sell-a-$1500-car" model these days, they want it sold now and they dont want to wait 2 weeks for an auction to end

 

 

[Who is doing what to keep their engine bay cool?]

I can't tell if you're making a great dad pun with "cool" club or not

 

You can make them invisible if you want to keep a stock looking car, but no matter how you dress it up anything you do to improve top mount efficiency is pissing in the wind compared to just putting the cooler in a proper position

 

I know it's a bit crass but my point stands - you can faff about with all the ducting and heat tape and oversized scoops you want but it's ultimately still going to cook itself as soon as the car is stationary for more than a few seconds, and with what a front mount kit costs these days it's a hard to argue proposition. 

 

Ive got a couple of small slimline fans in the garage if you want them, I fitted them to the underside of a v7 sti cooler on a gtb and whilst it was semi effective, it still paled in comparison to a cheap trademe front mount 

 

As well as that, it's worth going to the effort of straightening out of straightening out your top mount fins - it blows me away how many cars have them all flattened down, it renders the cooler near useless when air can't go through it. Ditto for upgrading to silicone / sti joiner pipes, the old corrugated plastic ones aren't too great. 

 

Oh oh also the old line about moving a pod filter into the guard if you have one, give things a head start not a handicap 

['94 WRX - buyers guide?]

I wouldn't pay more than half that 

 

Look past the nice wheels and it's just another 200km old early wrx, one of thousands. Yes that's about 8k per year but no matter how you dress it up it's getting long in the tooth 

 

For the same money - literally - you can have one ten years and two generations newer and less kms 

 

We'll be out of fossil fuels before that thing starts to be worth the asking price. If you like the early shape maybe look st a v5/6, the facelift holds value and is worth the cost and still keeps the classic lines. If you look outside trademe and car dealers you'll see a much bigger range available - most dealers don't bother with cars this age or type anymore as they're just a time bomb in their eyes, and fair enough too 

[Who is doing what to keep their engine bay cool?]

A lot

 

Ive done measuring of TMIC temps with and without the under try and it's a startling difference in how quick it cools from being heat soaked 

 

Speaking of which - best thing for keeping intake temps down is to lose that top mount you want to keep. The "lag" from a front mount is a load of bollocks and the temp differences are huge in the real world 

 

I have run fans under a top mount cooler which does work quite well too, in actual measured terms not guesswork terms 

 

The rubber seal at the back of the engine bay is a high pressure area at speed, it pushes air in if you remove it and makes it harder to push air through the bonnet scoop. Leave it in place unless you just want more noise 

['94 WRX - buyers guide?]

You'd be dreaming if you bought that with the intention of it appreciating in value

 

If you started with a $1500 "pre loved" example and refurbed it, then sure you'd make some money - good paint and some new alloys can do wonders for the first impression of a car

 

Subarus as a rule are not a make which generally appreciates in value unless you have one of the real rockinghorseshit models - rs/ra, 22b, type r coupe, S20X models etc

[Legacy BD5 - replacement part strut/shock numbers]

Holy sh!t that car is still on the road? That's amazing