Marky

The beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees

Yeah, they do, I've been in a couple In generally does restart pretty quickly afterwards when another unit finds the car again mind you

It makes boost, and the fact it makes different boost on primary and secondary suggests to me that it is still being controlled by the ECU. Mine have all run 7psi on primary and secondary when run on WG pressure only. Just unplug the hose running to the boost controller, jam something with an opening approx half the size of the vacuum hose in the end of it, and see what boost levels you have. Ideally the thing should be adjustable (the aforementioned needle valve used in garden irrigation is perfect) so you can fine tune the bleed off My advice is turfing the factory boost control anyway, it is a much nicer drive with some pressure in down low Does it still come on boost as quick as before or is it really lazy? Also... Why did you move the solenoid? Haha

I thought we had a seperate nsfw thread already

Post it here

I need to get some paint in a spraycan to match my bumper to the rest of the vehicle I have a bastard paint colour called java black which translates to "black with some gold flecks" - it is a factory subaru colour with a code Who would you folks recommend for me to acquire some of this?

Don't dream of buying one new. They're a throwaway item from most cars so just grab a second hand one from somewhere, hell even repco have them for f-all, its just a very simple timer circuit - actually jaycar have a kitset one you can make if you wanted ha

Mine behaves like that if it's in limp mode, for what it's worth. If its a real hard, very repeatable "cut" rather than a misfire which should be a bit more random Just turn it off and on again (like, the battery off and on) Normally I'd say AFM or boost leak type things - tho yours has just been apart the other week hasnt it

The whole thing is fcking stupid, it's twice the weight for zero gain, unless it maybe makes it sound like something way different (this is very doubtful)

It will fix it if it's the problem I doubt it's the problem to be fair but does no harm to do it

Moving the solenoid would have meant new hoses ya? Is the restrictor pill still in place Plan B - try it with a working manual controller This can mean a 50c hose fitting from mitre ten btw

Wait whaaaaat your car moves now? This is excite

I have one you can just have once I actually pull it out of the car It has an on off switch and 1-3-5mins? Maybe 10 if you're lucky I used it once to let the car warm up while I had to go back into work and lock up again... They're useless things. To be fair I just leave my muppets in it with the windows cracked (they're 85kgs combined of big black dog), on the other hand for someone who literally works with criminals I'm far too trusting

Already imports here http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-925213145.htm

No no no The head unit is half decent, bout $280ish? It's a Pioneer one with the bluetooths and things It just only has a rear/sub RCA (because I didn't think to check for that), and I'm already using that for an existing sub & amp I have now. I just happen to have this 4 channel amp I'd also like to give a home Is okay, I have already answered own question

Once upon a time I was sitting a diploma in electronic engineering... It appears I have forgotten most of it, haha I have acquired one of them classic old sony 444w 4 channel amps, I want to use it on my speakers for the hell of it (already have sub and can;t stand for things in my garage to be unused) My headunit is semi budgo spec and does not have a front pre-out, so I'm using a line converter thing to give the amp an RCA input Am I best to a) run all four speakers in 2 bridged pairs as just "front" speakers or b) split that RCA signal to give the amp a front and rear input/output and have 4 normal outputs to the speakers, the head unit still giving "front" to speakers and "rear" to sub as before (so I can still do HP and LP filters through it happily) ...I think I've answered my own question while typing it out

How much difference would say 3psi difference in inflation across front and back axles make to rolling circumference? Just curious now Like for arguments' sake, there's a truck in my workshop now with 8 driven wheels (3 axles, twin wheels on both back axles and 2 diffs), do they change them all at once? Sets of 4? (Genuinely curious I'm gonna ask the driver when he gets back haha)

No, just replace the one, or if in doubt the pair Ideal world you'd do all four at once, realistically most people don't with next to no ill effects Subarus aren't the only 4wd car in existence

Silly question but does your sat nav actually function in NZ? 90% of the ones I have seen in jap imports are japan-only (I mean there's exceptions to the rule but still)

Drove the Mrs's outlander to Auckland and back, auckland traffic you can eat a large bowl of phallus - seriously how do people put up with living there holy crap 8l/100km from a 2 ton 2.4l, not bad Washed the suby, always a lol at the super technicolour carwash, and just now went to install my new drainpipe sized downpipes and realised I need to get an extra 02 sensor bung welded on first damnit (Could plan B just be giving the same signal from the first one to both?) Oh I also bought a Rev D B4 sedan bumper, one of them ones with the grey middle and those little canard things. Should look good on the wagon Irection

Very much seems AFM problem related OR a boost cut outright AFM related can also mean air leaks in or out I'd be looking into checking the various components work right, put it into test mode (plug in the green connector under the dash), and check that the intercooler valve is cycling open and closed, and the exhaust valve rod is also moving in and out. Might be as simple as a vacuum hose got snapped or torn when you had the intercooler off and on a couple times - also are you sure the hoses are clamped to the turbos tight - I've done it before where they feel tight as but I've accidentally hooked the hose clamp on top of the little locator bit and while you can't pull the hose off, air can slip out that joint Could also be a spark issue, I doubt it, that normally feels like a misfire on boost as opposed to a hard cut if that makes sense

Wait, change of plan, turns out you can't log with the vag-com / obd2 cable, stink. It'll show info in "freeSSM" but not romraider = no virtual dyno, need a proper tactrix cable for that You can still monitor stuff mind you

So I figured I'd just share the love for those who aren't aware, I wasn't till recently. If you have a V5 or BE/BH onwards, this will work. Earlier models aren't OBD2 compliant so don't have the plug for it Step one: Buy one of these http://www.stahlcar.nz/subaru Step two: Download this http://freessm.software.informer.com/ You could try this but I'm not sure if it works with the OBD cable - http://www.romraider.com , (I'll check this tomorrow) Step three: Plug it in to your car, go for a fang, watch as all kinds of things get recorded like magic ITS AMAZING. Also this will tell you any fault codes the car knows about, and you can add or subtract up to 5 deg of timing across the board. This is very handy if you own a ping machine, or are stuck with 95 octane gas, or want to add a bit to a safe car and go a little bit better (say you chucked in a tank of avgas for a lol and want to tempt fate). It's a very minor thing but can make a startling difference Now the joy of the software is it will also let you log stuff. SO what you can do is look back later and see if your car actually does knock like you thought it does, or if it is seeing some weird voltage now and then where it shouldn't, all sorts. The amount which can be logged is quite impressive and it's a lot cheaper than the normal repair-by-replacement technique people use to sort an issue (maybe I'll replace the afm... and o2 sensor.... and this thing.... oh and all along this was unplugged) Now the next part is a matter of some debate - virtual dyno software from here (http://www.virtualdyno.net/ ) when setup correctly will output numbers very close (within 5-10hp) to a chassis dyno, from those logs you took. It's also ripe for misinformation as the wrong tyre size, wrong gear ratios, wrong weight etc will all throw it off quite markedly, as will a sloping road obviously However it IS a great tool for monitoring your own tinkering, so if you have a base run to compare to, you can then see if going to that new downpipe actually made it go better, if it's worth screwing another 2psi in or not, all that sort of thing. It uses basically the "known variables" of car weight, gear ratios and drag, vs how fast it accelerates through the RPM range. Fudge the figures and of course you'll get fudged results Remember if you simply use it as a tool to compare your own car with itself - or even just one using the same variables - then it's pretty idiot proof, and you can see for yourself if that massive turbo or new manifold you bolted on really does make it go faster or if it just makes it *feel* faster. Sound and lag can make for great placebos Short version, you don't need to fly blind so to speak, you can see for yourself if the thing you did actually had a point or not, if it's safe or a timebomb

Well it might give you a pointer now, it's hard to say a car boosts slowly if you can't see the actual PSI level Did this problem start happening -right after- you replaced the knock sensor, or is it an issue which has started to happen later on The symptoms you're describing could be a couple of things and it's not a major issue - A boost leak, whether an actual leak or the BOV sticking open (also if the secondary BOV is opening it'll do the same thing) - Something in the sequential system has been fcked with, maybe the intercooler valve is stuck open (or not opening)? That'd have the same effect - An intake leak - the non pressurised side, if it's sucking in unmetered air it'll do this - Faulty AFM tends to behave like this sort of also As dumb as it sounds, did the pipes bolted to the intercooler get unbolted? If so and they haven't resealed that could do it Does it idle, can it drive around nicely, or is it running like poos 24/7 Also describe the noise, are we talking misfire etc or more an air rushing sound or what

Do you have a boost gauge, what does it say if so