mondo

Well then I bow down to the "super mechanics"

If I had a dollar for every time someone stripped a thread in alloy...............

Best invest in a torque wrench when working with alloy.

Strange but that flange is normally the oil return.

My NZ new has HID\'s

Where did you learn this crap from?. If you think this is ok, then go start your car, then remove the battery and see what happens

Lol Its a fact marc, although it usually shows as a coil code.

Faulty reverse switch on gearbox can cause a top end miss.

You have had a good run out of it at 275k, put up with it or put a lower K used one in.

Depends on the oil change intervals, subaru recommends every 7500km\'s max, most "its just a car owners" will only do every 10000kms.I change mine every 5000kms on my 04 which has done 185000kms without a problem.

As many as it takes I supose, would you waste your time posting the same advise again if someone posted some new info about it?.

The only difference between GT 2l turbo and spec b is the 18" rims.

As far as 5w-30w oils go, dont use them if you like to use your subaru in the high rev range, you are likely to damage a big end bearing, 5w-30w is just to thin.Subaru recommends it for "normal" driving because it gives better fuel economy.If you go to a subaru dealer and ask what oil for high rev driving, they will give you 10w-60w.

Lots of info, thanks.Manual is td04hla-19t.I\'ve managed to source a complete brand new rolling center assembly, so it will be an easy swap into the housings

Ok then its a td04 twin scroll, anyone had to get one rebuilt?

What specs are the turbo on a 2005 legacy manual?, a bit of net searching says its TD04, twin scroll of course, others say its a vf38 same as the auto. Also who can recommend a turbo shop to rebuild it. Thanks in advance!

How were you treating the engine when this happened?

Are you saying its filling up the expansion tank and spilling out, or getting to the hot mark like it should?

Thats a US lefthand drive, cant do it with JDM imports.Turbo has to come off.

Gull force pro is up to 110 ron, Id like to see actual testing of the true everyday ron number!( more like 100 ron)

Yep fair enough, but the car in question in the first post is a turbo 2.0.I cant really see what the problem is with people having to concentrate when driving a manual, I know what gear im in at any time and can change gear without having to concentrate/think about it.A car it safer for ANYONE if they are a confident driver, be it an auto or manual.I could also call myself a professional driver, but for the last 10 yrs have gone back to racing motorcycles.The only safe road to drive on is one free from drunk/druged/incompetent/speeding drivers, which is impossible with the caliber of drivers in this country.

I have to disagree with you borg on the fact that the 2.0 will use more fuel than the 3.0.My 04 2.0 turbo is very good on fuel, on long runs at legal speeds I get 15km/l.Sure they use a bit when you you put your foot down but ANY engine will(the 2.0 turbo is so nice to just floor it ,I think thats why it gets a bad rap for being hungry!).As for having an auto over a manual ??, I hope you mean an auto is safer for people who cant drive!.The only reason I would choose the 3.0/6 over the 2.0 turbo/4, would be if I was to be towing a lot.

4th gen, I\'m sure it was only 04-06, 07 on has single mass

One problem with the manual is they usually need a new clutch anywhere between 100,000 to 150,000k (depends how it\'s been driven), AND usually a new flywheel, as the flywheel used on 04-06 models is a dual mass type(expensive!)

Valvoline synpower 5w-40w, its on special at repco till sunday, at $55 5L cant beat that.I\'ve used it for the the last 50,000km at 5000km changes with no problems at all.I used to use castrol edge 5w-30w which used to burn a little between changes ( about 1L), valvoline does not burn a drop.