Heylin

Drove car back from Pukekohe today, must say the team at PBMS are great bunch, Gary is full of Subaru knowledge and a real good kiwi bloke, really knows his tuning stuff. Car is magic to drive now, much more responsive in the 0-120 range, and also when overtaking. Economy is looking at least the same as factory if not better. Also noticed its smoother overall in gear changes like the power is more even. Wouldnt want to go any more silly on it, as a stockish car with a bit of added zest Im happy

had our best liter per 100 km figure on the physical mods. 10.7L per 100km, that was using 95 octane as well and 50/50 mixed town\open road driving. Worst we ever had was about 14L per 100 for mainly town driving.

Doing a bit more research, apprently Subaru AWD averages 25% loss, and it seems there is negligle difference in Auto vs Manual Transmission losses above the lower rpm levels. So based on 25% and 30KW actual gain and factory 190KW at the engine, then 230Kw at engine (190KW) at wheels is in fact about right as it whittles back down to 190 at the wheels. Anyway just numbers at the end of the day, im pretty sure I will like the extra boost of power as I was happy before it was tuned.

May do, thanks for heads up. The before and after on PBMS Dyno was 10-15 kw at the wheels, Subtechs before and after on their front pipe show a 15 kw gain over stock. so overall it has gained 25-30 kw at the wheels over stock based on before and after differences. Be interesting to know accurately what the ATW performance is for stock legacy GT-B, then its just a matter of adding on the 30KW to get the true gain \ ATW performance.

Yeah works out to be 225-228kw roughly at motor which is bang on what I expected from those mods and from what others said as well. Manual would see more, but still good. Autos in USA pulling more than that no problem. Mods were - Subtech Front Pipe $500 fitted, Adrenalin R Resonator $280 fitted, Hi Flow Air Filter, $50, Reflash @ PBMS $920. $1750 all up for 190 kw atw vs 190 kw at the engine stock. happy man, cant wait to drive.

Just got off the phone with Gary Capper and the results are in - Reflash - Subtech pipe - High flow air filter - 185-190KW at the wheels, overall gain of 10-15Kw from when it went in. Notes: - was found to be running 15psi before any changes (normal for factory ?) - had to have a little timing pulled as it was getting some DET - now running 16 psi, Gary reckons this is OK for VF38 but wouldnt go more. - Looking at the Map Gary reckons it was possibly remapped in Japan, as it seemed quite different to other factory tunes hed seen, mabey a GT-B thing ?

Mabey because 99% of cars are owned by non ethusiasts who wouldnt notice or care.

Lots, and always the places we travel to as well (Auckland and Tauranga mainly).

Is that possible on factory ecu reflash ? I thought you tune for one grade only ? unless you have say a link which supports dual maps.

Booking the car in at PBMS soon for a reflash. Specs (2004 GT-B Sedan, Tiptronic, Subtech Front Pipe, High Flow Filter). Recently switched to 95 to see how it would run and actually got good economy and no noticeable drop in power at top end. (no shuddering or hesitation) Question....will these cars safely put out the 220-230kw (at engine) anticipated from the these mods running 95 ?? or is 98 a must ??. Every little bit helps, but for the sake of $6 extra per tank, mabey 98 is in fact worth it for some more power ? how much would 3 extra octane points net at the dyno ?

Ive always had better results (in other cars) when wrapping intercooler pipes with it. Specifically the fiberglass based ones with reflective coating, on the cold side of the intercooler. Wrapping mild steel headers, cast headers, or stainless almost always results in rust and also degradation due to higher temperatures being retained in the metal.

Im using Tint-a-Car Hamilton, $100 for the front, good quality films with 10 year gaurantee. Rear mufflers are OEM, resonator is the small muffler on the mid pipe (ribbed casing) ive cut that out and added a 350mm adrenalin R which you cant see, even from the rear. Aim is to have an OEM looking car with a few visual tweaks (tints and recoloured mags) with 220-230 kw at the motor.

Gary Capper @ PBM Pukekohe.

190kw at the engine for 2003-2005 Auto. 40% sounds a little high, that would be like 114kw at the wheels. I know what 205 feels like at the wheels in a lighter car and I wouldnt say the stock legacy GT-B feels that far behind in power. From my readings it was something like 25-30% drive train loss for auto AWD.

Ran the first tank of gas through using the new filter. one open road trip from Hamilton to Tauranga return, the rest round town driving. Filled tank to brim and took kms reading. 10.8L per 100 km Which is 0.5L per 100km lower than our last best average. Equates to a 3% fuel saving, which ive found on most of my cars when running a higher flowing filter and exhaust.

Arrived today, not so impressed with the finish, 2nd hand I guess but yeah I like my interior parts to be mint, hope yours is good. Im in the process of sanding down and painting in a dark charcoal metallic (same as front grill), should look good and be more resistant to fingerprints and scratching.

Dropped in this morning, and yep its in the tank on mine. Its done 67,000 kms so should still be good condition. Be interesting to see how it goes after this morning since I was lazy and put 95 octane in it so I could use my 6 cents off voucher, will be doing town driving for the next few weeks so should be fine.

Got some OK pics this weekend. Standardish GTB 2004 (BL5). Subtech pipe, AdrenalinR Resonator and Simota Panel filter. Reflash to come, repaint mags to come, darker front windows to come.

Booking in to get my fuel filter replaced, please put my mind at ease and tell me its not a dumb in tank filter like the 1999 Legacy B4, cost like $400 to get replaced, most of which was labour.

I have a Japanese Kenwood GPS above my clock\trip computer that im wanting to remove, it serves no purpose and cannot be updated. Im wondering if anyone has found it really hard (and expensive) to obtain the OEM compartment that goes in that 1.5 din space above the clock ?. Sub spares in Hamilton wanted $200 for the one\ones they had in stock, nothing on TradeMe, cant find any spares from the overseas websites like RHDJapan or Japanparts. On eBay last night out of the blue I scored one from Israel 2nd hand for $60NZ delievered....gathering I got a good deal ?

LOL im still letting go give me time. I may end up running the Simota for a year then switch back to the stock filter, main reason for me is the car is too quiet for my liking, not wanting to harp on but the MR2 made all those neat noises (induction, bov, exhaust note) was a barrage on the senses, I think a sports car needs to be a little less sedate. I may grow up one day but not yet.

LOL good point so the autos are really hobbled in terms of power then......come to think of it I test drove a 2006 GT-B Manual 4 years ago, and that thing was seriously quick compared to my 2004 Auto today.

Didnt on my MR2, I wish I had the $$ at the time to do a dyno, but in deciding to go from K&N panel to Simota Pod, I swapped them back n forth and went for drives in the same day. Pod made car more responsive in throttle and power felt smoother from mid to high range.

Seems strange they would fit a different turbo to a 5 speed auto and 5 speed manual. As far as I know the 190kw vs 205 kw difference between auto and manual was to do with the higher drivetrain loss associated with the auto. Wouldnt make sense to have bigger \ different turbo for a 15kw difference. Any BL5\BP manual owners here ?

Depends, Simota do a double stack pod with filter media recessed into top, also believe airflow pattern comes into it, a pod although the same area, has smoother airflow characteristics compared to a panel and box thus can get air more effieciently. Wether or not it makes a difference on mildly modded motor, who knows. I do however love induction noise in my turbos, so ill get some benefit.